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Governor’s Tavern Fills The Iron Horse’s Big Shoes

Ortega, Dykeman and bartender Fernando Martinez

By Jamie Larson

The new Governor’s Tavern in Hudson, New York is a welcome surprise behind its humble alley corner entrance along some train tracks. From the former beloved and historic dive bar, The Iron Horse, the new owners, Renee Ortega and Brian Dykeman, have created a professionally executed yet comfortably local hometown pub. Governor’s is also offering some truly elevated pub grub, cooked up by a British expat head chef, that combines expected staples with the flavors he misses from home.

“We wanted to create a place where people could feel comfortable, whether they’re regulars or it’s their first time visiting,” says Dykeman, who grew up just outside Hudson and knew the old bar well. “We didn’t want to alienate anyone who used to come here — but we also want to bridge the gap.”

Ortega also owns the Zombie Hut in Brooklyn, where she and Dykman met, but they only go down to the city to check in once a week, having chosen to move to Hudson full time and focus on Governor’s. She says they feel the most important thing to a successful neighborhood bar is a great staff; cultivating a fun community atmosphere starts with a crew who enjoy being there, too. They must be doing something right because they were able to convince Chef Steve Rawlings to move up to Hudson after working in some significant NYC kitchens including Brucie, The Breslin and Reynard.

What Rawlings is doing with a standard tavern menu is truly a reason to check Governor’s out. He’s created a signature hamburger, with onion strings that actually taste like onions and an au jus that, when dipped, almost tricks your brain into experiencing a mouthful of French onion soup.

What’s more, Rawlings has brought authentic UK tavern fare to the table as well as standards like fish and chips and English-style curry on Wednesdays.

Dykman is serious about beer and curates an ever-changing list of taps. There’s usually something local on tap and drink prices in general are very reasonable, even offering a $3 Miller Light for your thrifty session.

Governor’s, named for the couple’s first bull dog, Governor Russell Smalls, is appointed traditionally, embracing dark wood and exposed brick. What’s most striking is the mural-sized photo on the back wall of Warren Street from the 1800s, taken from a vantage not far from the (then) State Grill.

But Governor’s has big shoes to fill. Frank Martino’s Iron Horse was an institution. Opened some time before 1883 as the State Grill, the inn was an affordable boarding house and tavern for farmers journeying to Hudson for provisions. The barn behind the bar was used to house the horses and coaches. It operated in some capacity during Prohibition and up until the ‘90s opened at 8 a.m. to accommodate shift workers. A number of movies looking for a classic bar shot scenes inside, including “Iron Weed,” “Cake Eaters” and Paul Newman’s “Nobody’s Fool.” 

“We loved the feel of the Iron Horse,” says Dykeman, adding they initially hoped to change little about the interior. “But we quickly found out nothing was up to code, and it was going to fall down.”

When Martino passed away in 2013 it was hard for locals to see the Iron Horse sitting empty, and harder still to watch later as it was gutted for restoration. But it only takes one trip to see that Governor’s is not just a worthy successor to The Iron Horse but a continuation of the building’s legacy. They are still using the original bar-back and repurposed the original bar, which they found in the walls. Dykeman says they are also restoring the original State Grill and Iron Horse signs for later display.

“The Iron Horse was special because Frankie was always here,” Dykeman said. “It’s important to us that we are here too, being involved, being a neighbor.”

In an old newspaper article about the history of the Iron Horse, which the new owners found during renovations (and I happened to have authored some years ago), Martino discussed the future of the establishment. Since his own grown children were off in other professions, he said he daydreamed about a nice young couple buying the place, fixing it up and maybe even serving up some food from the back. Dykeman and Ortega said it makes them happy to think that they are that couple.

Seasons change, and it’s spring again at Governor’s. The owners’ combination of professional acumen and connection to the area seems the perfect mix to steward the historic watering hole into a new era.

Governor’s Tavern
14 South 7th Street, Hudson, NY
(518) 697-5609
Open Tuesday-Sunday 11:30 a.m. to 1 a.m. (2 a.m. Friday and Saturday)

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Posted by Jamie Larson on 05/15/17 at 10:03 AM • Permalink

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Vegan Or Not, You’ll Love Shire Kitchen’s Community Dinners

Mariana Bergtold in the tempeh shed, where the kitchen manufactures 100 pounds of chickpea tempeh at a time.

By Lisa Green

Fans of the Dancing Vegan, a plant-based, takeout shop in Pittsfield, Mass., were severely disappointed when Chef Mariana Bergtold closed its doors in 2009. Even now, local vegans (and others) wistfully refer to the days when outrageously good vegan food was available and conveniently located, every day.

But now, those same fans can rejoice, because Bergtold, who left the Berkshires to head the kitchen of the largest retreat center in Hawaii, is back, and so is the magic she creates sans eggs, dairy and other non-vegan ingredients. The self-confessed workaholic has opened Shire Kitchen, a vegan commercial production kitchen that lives within Shire City Sanctuary. Besides producing its own tempeh and seitan, Shire Kitchen offers full-service catering, cooking classes, and the icing (vegan, of course) on the cake: the Shire Kitchen First Friday Community Dinners.

Each month, Bergtold selects an ethnic cuisine and goes to town with it, first conducting copious research on the foods of that culture and then preparing a plant-based menu from start to finish. This month, since the dinner fell on May 5, it was cuisine in honor of Cinco de Mayo. Around 40 people dug into a variety of salsas, guacamole, chili con queso and oyster mushroom ceviche — all just starters, which were waiting at each table. The main course, served buffet style, included squash and pablano tamales, tempeh tacquitos, vegetable mole and more. Carmel flan and churros finished off the meal for those who could muster one more bite. Drinks, too, were Mexican inspired: a coconut tamarind mixture and hibiscus iced tea.

June’s dinner will celebrate Indonesian food, and in July, it’ll be Southern barbeque. You don’t have to be vegan to love what comes out of this kitchen, but the variety and flavors you encounter will inspire you.

Tables are set up in the kitchen, family style; the food itself is the icebreaker that gets conversations started. Bergtold visits each table to talk about the flavors and ingredients of the dishes, and she seems to enjoy the feedback she gets. Of course, it’s pretty much unanimously enthusiastic.

“I’ve had some people who met here who come every month now to see their new friends,” Bergtold says. “Some are my former customers from the Dancing Vegan. There are some people who lean to the far right politically, and others to the left. I’m hoping if we break bread together, maybe we can talk to each other.”

Bergtold’s generosity of spirit informs all that she does. A French-trained (Cordon Bleu) chef who worked in corporate settings and restaurants, she was diagnosed with terminal cancer in 2002. The now-closed Kushi Institute, a macrobiotic-based wellness facility, brought her to the Berkshires and renewed her interest in natural foods. And now, full of energy and quick to laugh, she runs programs to share the benefits of eating healthfully.

At Shire Kitchen, everything is on wheels so the space can be set up for its various activities: manufacturing, classes and community dinners.

Education is a big part of her mission. The kitchen hires interns who are home-schooled and students from Alchemy Initiative. “I’ve almost turned the kitchen into a school,” Bergtold says. “We train the kids and help them get a job.”

She teaches a cooking class the Saturday after each community dinner, and starting this week, will be cooking and selling her food at the Downtown Pittsfield Farmers Market. She has also embarked upon an additional business, manufacturing a chickpea-based tempeh. In fact, Shire Kitchen recently bought the Hosta Hill tempeh division, and Bergtold’s soy-free version is being produced in the kitchen, along with a take-and-bake tempeh puffed pastry. At this point, it’s still an artisanal — read “small batch” — product (“You can’t get chickpeas in a big bag,” Bergtold says with a smile) but it will be available at farmers markets and on the menus of local restaurants.

Bergtold, originally a California girl, began her career in the early ‘80s when the food revolution was just beginning. “I’ve been in the middle of it and loved it,” she says. Happily for us, she’s back in the Berkshires, which she says resonates with her. And her culinary prowess keeps us coming back to her kitchen.

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Posted by Lisa Green on 05/11/17 at 04:46 PM • Permalink

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The People’s Pub In Chatham Ramps Up For The Season

By Joanna Virello

A friend from Claverack who loves hyper-local beer suggested that I check out The People’s Pub, a new establishment in Chatham, New York, opened by Angus Van Beusichem and Gray Ballinger, who grew up just a few miles south in Harlemville. Along with a few other friends, they constructed a new food and craft beer mecca in the old Welsh bar on Main Street, the former Peint o Gwrw. Once I heard they had a beer list that pays homage to a great number of small breweries from all over the U.S. — as well as something called Free Bird Wings rubbed with “ancho chile” — it was all over. When we arrived at The People’s Pub and learned it was $1 Oyster Night, I could barely contain myself.

Inside The People’s Pub, we were greeted by a large stuffed bear and cruised by the ornate 19th-century American Gothic bar en route to the stunning main room with its old-school tin ceilings and exposed carved beams. The room is strewn with leather two-seaters and a fireplace that glows near the back. We were seated next to the kitchen, giving us a clear view of everything that was coming out of the open kitchen and the food prep by CIA-trained Chef Kouri Killmeier and his swift staff.

Ramps For The People

Last summer while building out the restaurant, Chef Kouri [above] and Van Beusichem (who did the bulk of the construction) needed a break, so they went swimming at a local watering hole. They stumbled upon a ramp “goldmine” and harvested enough to get through the summer season. This year they have already been back to their secret spot and have foraged around 10 pounds so far. They are featuring a weekly ramp specials. My advice: get there early. The ramp pesto was sold out by the time we got there, but we did get our fill with a dish called Ramps on Ramps, [below] which was ramp tempura with a ramp aioli served on a sliced log plate. Simple yet so fresh and flavorful.

“There is nothing like an early season ramps — they are just so fresh and not abrasive.” says Von Beusichem. Chef Kouri would like to preserve and pickle enough to get them through the winter and he wants to incorporate ramp kimchi, pickled ramps, pesto and purees into future offerings.

The place is billed as a pub, but the cocktail menu is full of interesting $12 options such as The New Fangled (Albany Distilling Dark Rum, Luxardo Marchino, Dry Curaçao and bitters), The New York Ass (Bootlegger Vodka, fresh lime and ginger beer) and The Chatham Reviver (Ballast Point Gin, Cocchi Americano, Dry Curaçao, lemon, Chef Handsome Homemade Bitters, with an absinthe rinse.) I went with a New Fangled that was nice and sweet with a large hand-cut cube of ice and a lemon peel garnish; it packed a new-fangled wallop. We got a pint of The Chatham Brewing/The People’s Pub Citracot IPA to savor as well. That collaboration was a big success for me and I’m not a huge fan of IPAs.

Drinks served, we ordered six oysters, three Blue Points from Long Island ($1) and three west coast beauties from Oregon ($3). They were served with three mignonettes, one that was made with carrots and ginger, another that was a dill, pickle and vinegar concoction, and the third was “secret” traditional recipe. All three were quite good.

After the mignonettes and fresh oysters, we moved on to the risotto fritters ($16) and the Brussels sprouts ($7), both worthy of ordering, especially the fried Brussels sprouts all bacony and sweet. The fritters were a delicious meal in themselves and the tomato broth they sat in was perfection. The buttermilk chicken sandwich ($14) was satisfactory but the Spanish octopus ($17.50) was a showstopper. It was charred with vermicelli noodle salad dressed in lime and herbs. I could have eaten two.

A very popular item at The People’s Pub is The People’s Burger ($13.50), made with Kinderhook Farm beef, and fries, served with a healthy heaping of Parmesan cheese, garlic aioli and fresh garden herbs. The staff nailed it.

And about those wings ($11): Van Beusichem, one of the owners, elaborated on the thoughts behind the recipe.

“Chef Kouri’s goal when creating his infamous Free Bird Wings was to encompass all the things you want in a wing: juicy but crispy and spicy, and he chose a flavor profile that satisfies almost everyone’s tastes,” says Van Beusichem. “It pushes approachability without being too esoteric.” Our less esoteric verdict: beyond satisfying — thanks especially to the citrus zest.

We’re looking forward to returning to try the rest of the menu, and The People’s Pub has spring and summer specials planned that will be sure to get us there. Next month sees the launch of a Sunday brunch, with a menu that includes a chicken and waffle sandwich with bacon and maple syrup aioli. In mid May, the Upstairs Espresso Bar will open, featuring coffee selections using No. Six Depot Roastery in West Stockbridge, Mass. and dairy products from Hawthorne Valley Farm. And on May 22, The People’s Pub is collaborating with Sloop Brewing on a four-course beer dinner with four of their beers and food pairings from Chef Kouri.

The People’s Pub
36 Main Street, Chatham, NY
(518) 392-2337
Kitchen hours: Tuesday-Sunday, 4-10 p.m.
Bar hours: Tuesday-Thursday, 4-11 p.m.; Friday-Saturday, 4 p.m. - 1 a.m.

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Posted by Lisa Green on 04/23/17 at 09:23 PM • Permalink

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Getting ‘Served’ in Salisbury: The Lockup

By Nichole Dupont

We both needed a break from everything, including ourselves. Of course, food (and booze) is one way to slip down the rabbit hole of sensory overload for a few hours. Ambience helps, too. The Lockup on Salisbury’s quaint Main Street has both. That’s where my “sister” and I escaped from the rain, ducking our heads into what used to be Peter Becks Village Store, now a highly textural eatery owned by restaurateurs Eric and Liz Macaire, former owners of The Bubble Lounge (in New York and San Francisco). Liz led us through several dining nooks — a front end adorned with a magnificent marble table, a long “galley” dining area covered floor to ceiling with rough-hewn pallet boards — into a dimly lit lounge area with a plush velvet couch, provocative art, red leather chairs and a dark-stained, hefty bar.

“Will this be alright?” she asked.

“Absolutely.”

My “sister” excused herself to use the ladies’ room while I pored over the menu: spring salad with breakfast radishes and fava bean puree ($14), braised short rib agnolotti ($15), salmon crudo with mint and citrus, fettuccine Bolognese with veal-pork-beef ragu ($28).

“This place is… relevant. You need to check out the restrooms,” she said when she returned.

We mulled over the wine list, but both agreed that we needed something a little stronger, something as rich as the décor. I went to my usual Old-Fashioned, which came to me in a generous tumbler filled with amber and orange liquid. We hemmed and hawed over the menu, and finally gave in to the octopus carpaccio ($16) to begin, then a Lockup Burger ($15) for her and a basic spaghetti with pesto ($19) for me.

“This reminds me of the Mt. Kenya Safari Club,” she said, reaching through the decades to her teen adventure in Africa.

“It reminds me of an artist’s haunt in Paris,” I said, reaching even further back, muddling the raw sugar at the bottom of my drink.

The octopus arrived, and was completely surprising to the eye. It didn’t “look” like octopus. In fact, the thin wedges of white meat settled in jewel-toned aspic made me wonder if I had perhaps gotten the wrong appetizer. But, we are adventurers, she and I.

“Try it,” I said, scooping some of the saffron-infused fennel onto a soft bite of the re-imagined sea creature. The taste was a reminder, wholly different in texture but familiar to the palate. Not fishy, not chewy, just a little smoky. We cleaned the artisanal arrangement with zero shame. I popped the little chive flower in my mouth.

“Wow, that was a perfect finish to this dish.” I imagined that this is what a sampler at Noma is like. A distilled essence of something, jumpstarting a memory somewhere in the sleepy brain.

Before our entrees arrived, I took a walkabout to check out the restroom situation she had raved about. Doors, totally encased in sheets of copper held on by determined rivets. I have a thing for copper, and this was almost too much. When I got back to our table, I just nodded my head at her.

“Right?!” she said.

Our second round arrived, and her burger—complete with a fried egg and a healthy portion of French fries — could’ve easily been worn as a catcher’s mask. It was that generous, and loaded with fresh greens, little fried shallots, and a light Mornay sauce. In that moment, I was so pissed off that I couldn’t eat red meat.

But the pesto and house-made spaghetti more than made up for my angst. I needed some comfort food, and I got it. In the licorice-y essence of the fresh basil and pasta. I ate every bite. And some of her fries.

Then there was that moment in the evening where our relaxed, fun server asked if we wanted to hear about dessert. It was the night before Easter. We are a French family. Treats had been consumed…almost daily…leading up to this point.

“Absolutely,” we said. In unison. Maybe a little too loudly.

The theme for dessert, and for more than a few items on the menu, was ricotta. Makes perfect sense since spring is here, and fresh, light cheese pairs harmoniously with the early spoils of the garden. My sister enjoyed a lemon ricotta cheesecake with a “side” of house-made chocolate ice cream.

“The ice cream alone,” she said, shaking her head.

It would have been a crime not to try the warm, ricotta filled beignets (the size of hush puppies and covered in a light caramel sauce). And I’m not a criminal. So I ate them. All of them. And even licked the sauce from the plate.

The Lockup
19 Main St., Salisbury, CT
(860) 596-4371
Lunch, Sunday brunch, dinner, bar and lounge — call for hours.

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Posted by Nichole on 04/17/17 at 12:49 PM • Permalink

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The Art Of Za At The Lantern Inn In Wassaic, NY

By Joanna Virello

That magical hamlet Wassaic, at the end of Metro-North’s Harlem Line, is home to a very special place: The Lantern Inn. It’s a place where you can get a bonafide Brussel Simmons, a wood-fired pizza pie with roasted Brussels sprouts, bacon and fresh mozzarella and ricotta ($14); or the Art of Kale, with red sauce, artichoke hearts and mozzarella and Romano cheeses — and you can add sausage to that canvas if you’re feeling a bit creative ($13).

The Lantern’s pizza is simply great. I lived in Brooklyn and grew up near New Haven, Conn., so I have gorged on some of the best pizza in the U.S.: Pepe’s, Sottocasa, Franny’s, Keste and UNA. It’s commonly known that the dough recipe at The Lantern is a strain from Brooklyn’s infamous Roberta’s. But it’s better than the prototype.

The Lantern’s dough is dense, rich, flavorful and just a bit chewy in that perfect Neapolitan way. Sometimes it seems like it’s going to liquefy in your mouth. That might sound a tad erotic, but it’s a taste that instantly takes you to a very happy place.

The topping options are locally sourced and are either tasty variations on a Margherita or are simply works of art in and of themselves. If you decide to drop by on a Wednesday, please note it’s pizza’s night off so be prepared to experience The Lantern’s comfort food menu. This is your opportunity to try the meatloaf, also locally sourced.

The restaurant is spacious and vintage rustic, with a pool table, huge barroom and a large, well-lit dining room with communal tables. It was once the tavern that serviced the Borden Milk Factory workers, only now it has a giant pizza oven, craft beer and stellar firepit in the backyard that also boasts a big outdoor stage. If you’re lucky, you might catch Mail the Horse, Burt Murder or Prince Rama playing a set in warmer weather. This spot is where art, pizza and live music collide. It’s the brainchild of Jeff Barnett-Winsby, one of the co-executive directors of The Wassaic Project and a founder of the Wassaic Artist Residency. He lives in town with his wife and fellow Wassaic Project director Bowie Zunino, and their daughters Gilvey and Fenner. The husband-and-wife team run The Lantern along with a cast of local artists. Jeff was kind enough to enlighten me on the art of their singular pizza.
 
What is your favorite pizza pie at The Lantern?
My favorite is the Carbonara. It’s a white pie [extra virgin olive oil (EVOO) and garlic] with amazing bacon and homemade mozzarella, and it’s finished out of the oven with raw egg yolk, red pepper flakes and Romano cheese.

Which pie is your best seller?
By far this has to be the Margherita. Classics are hard to beat for a reason.

What pie is favored by Prince Rama?
The Green Lantern, our kale pie finished with lemon oil.

What are your current pies… is the website menu the same as what you’re currently serving?
Correct, although we have weekly specials not listed.

What makes the Lantern’s pizza dough taste so great? The water in Wassaic?
Two things. The first is the cold proofing. It builds flavor like nothing else. And second is the hard work of our kitchen staff. To be able to consistently produce such quality is really a testament to their dedication and abilities.

Is it true the formula for the dough is taped to the wall in the kitchen for all to follow?
Of course! We’re an open book. You aren’t paying for secrets when you come see us. Baking with fire is old stuff and we are always happy to give tips to any hobbyists and/or budding pros.

Where do you source your cured meats and local sausage?
We’re currently without a source for these two that would qualify as local. We’re working to expand our relationship with Meiller [Slaughterhouse] for the sausage.

House-made mozzarella? Who makes it?
Absolutely house-made. We buy curd from Belgioioso and make cheese every day. What’s more important is why. We do it because it ensures the correct amount of salt and allows us to control the density of the cheese. Everyone takes turns making it.

Tomatoes and olive oil… any info?
Basic, good-quality canned tomatoes and quality EVOO.

What makes your wings special?
The wings are completely cooked via sous-vide and cooled ahead of frying. This method helps us create very quick frying and perfectly juicy wings every time.

Salads: What farms do you source the greens from?
We use Sky Farm exclusively when they’re producing. There’s no good reason not to use the best, especially when they’re right up the road.

The Lantern Inn
10 Main Street, Wassaic, NY
(845) 373-8389
Wednesday, 5-9 p.m. Comfort food night — no pizza. Call for specials.
Thursday, 5-8 p.m.
Friday and Saturday, 5-9 p.m.
Sunday, 3-7 p.m.
The bar is open Wednesday through Sunday starting at 3 p.m.

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Posted by Lisa Green on 03/26/17 at 01:55 PM • Permalink

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Out To Lunch…In Tangier

By Nichole Dupont

Nothing is as it seems. Particularly here in the Northeast, where a sunny day could mean bitter cold, and a winter rain could be warmer than a summer night. This unpredictable predictability followed me to the newly opened Tangier Café (formerly the old Fuel Café spot) on Great Barrington, MA’s main drag. As the name suggests, Tangier is a Moroccan-inspired eatery, which is apparent before you even walk in the brightly painted entryway complete with gold leafing. But the distinct aroma of cardamom and other “exotic” spices really sets the tone for lunch at Tangier, which is owned and run by the co-owners of the longstanding Xicohtencatl Mexican Restaurant, Toni Bergins and Angel Espinoza Jimenez.

The menu is heavily Mediterranean. Most everything on the board (the café is counter service) is drizzled with high-quality olive oil. And fresh. My date and I contemplated the many offerings — small plates of hummus or baba ganoush with roasted vegetables, specialties of kefta (spicy ground beef slow simmered, tagine style) with poached eggs, chicken kabobs, veggie couscous, even a breakfast menu that offers a plethora of eggs with herbed sauces and vegetables — and settled on several dishes to please our very different palates. First off, a Moroccan staple of sweetened mint tea, served in a charming little silver pot and two small jewel-colored “shot” glasses.

“This is so refreshing,” my 13-year-old companion says, gulping the hot tea.

“It certainly is,” I agree, settling into the long bench that runs the entire length of the café, which is adorned with ornate brass lanterns and red “tile” paint.

First to arrive is the dolmas, stuffed grape leaves in olive oil, served atop a bed of lemony greens. The leaves are not the usual mushy texture I’ve come to expect. They are light and perfectly tangy and they pop with each bite. We devour all four within minutes, and eat the greens with our fingers, which become shiny with olive oil.

More tea is consumed and my date asks me where I’d like to travel this year. Where have I been? Where is my most favorite place in the world? As our food arrives, I realize that this is more than just another lunch in town. The server delivers up multiple plates of bright, aromatic food. The lamb burger (his choice) is served in a warm fluffy pita, crammed with greens and red onions and drizzled with yogurt sauce. My plate of roasted vegetables — peppers, zucchini, eggplant — is shimmering with the signature olive oil and served up with a few pita wedges. No good oil should go to waste, and it doesn’t on this easy afternoon.

“How’s the lamb, kid?” I try to hide my shock as my date devours his food quietly.

“Delicious.”

And I believe him because the smells coming off the meat are almost enough to make this mammal-allergic foodie want to risk it all with one bite.

Fortunately, the roasted vegetables are equally fragrant, and chunky, and inviting. They are crisp with just the right amount of char. I pick up a pepper, a hunk of eggplant, an onion, and stuff them into a pita triangle, then swirl the whole thing around in the oil on the plate.

“I like that I can eat with my fingers,” my date says.

“Me, too.”

We linger in Tangier for awhile, commenting on the painted walls and how long they must’ve taken to create. He wants to go back to the Moab Desert, I want to spend a year in Corsica. All easy dreamy talk. We are reluctant to leave, but have to get on with our day of deadlines and school projects.

I feel almost like I am betraying him when I return there a few days later and order a spiced coffee — clearly I’m chasing this fragrant nostalgia — and a falafel sandwich topped with tahini (not ultra bitter) and harissa. I am expecting the usual dry first bite of the falafel (made with ground chickpeas and/or fava beans). But once I make it beyond the crisp outside, my delight is genuine. I don’t need to wash it back with the coffee. I don’t need to do anything but enjoy the food in my belly and the sunlight coming in through the front window. 

Tangier Cafe
286 Main Street, Great Barrington, MA
(413) 645-3375
Sunday-Thursday, 8 a.m. - 9:30 p.m.
Friday and Saturday, 8 a.m. - 10 p.m.

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Posted by Nichole on 02/27/17 at 11:22 AM • Permalink

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Prana Bar: The Great Re-Imagining in GB

Photo: Scott Barrow.

By Nichole Dupont

I admit, I think it’s been more than a decade since I’ve seen 325 Stockbridge Road after 2 p.m. Its last incarnation, Haven Bakery and Café (sister eatery to the Lenox mothership) was a bright, almost stark daytime joint where I would gobble down polenta and pesto after a self-destructive leg day. With vaulted ceilings and an odd shape (like a fat L) the space, which was more akin to an art gallery, is not one that I would ever have called cozy. But somehow, the newly branded Prana Bar is warm, even inviting, at night. Soft lanterns float high above, reminiscent of a Shanghai side street, and the walls are painted red and black and adorned with a giant gold mural of Krishna and other henna-esque imagery, with a few vintage posters scattered around for edge. (Fear not, the Venetian plaster by Isha Nelson still adorns the walls at the “back alley” of the space.)

Prana Bar, which is still owned by Haven creator Shelly Williams, markets its fare as “global street food,” and this description is totally on point. The menu is divided up according to appetite; by the bite, in a bowl, on a crust, and sides and snacks. There is a hidden invitation here to stick around and experiment as the night wears on. Specialty drinks have their own menu, and classics like Mai Tais and caipirinhas offer transport to faraway places. An extensive beer and wine list boasts Bengali IPA, Monchof Schwartz, Bodegas Breca, and Hook & Ladder chardonnay. I stick to the familiar, and nurse the hell out of a maple old-fashioned with Bulleit Bourbon. Made strong. 

We pore over the menu, eyes darting up and down, as if we are actually visiting a foreign place and need to choose carefully lest this be the “last supper.” My foodie companion settles on the smoked eggs and I go “traditional American’” with the veggie fries. Truth be told I wanted to dive into the toasted sesame chicken poppers or the wild mushroom polenta, but thought I’d go with something basic.

Yeah, right. There was nothing basic about the giant mound of crispy beets, sweet potatoes, and thinly sliced squash sections that the super nice server put in front of me. The veggies came with three dipping sauces: a sweet grainy mustard, a Thai curry ketchup with respectable heat, and — the star of the show — a garlic mayonnaise, which I could have seriously eaten by the spoonful if I weren’t in public and wearing a black dress. And the portion was ample and therefore shareable. The smoked eggs, which were accompanied by a crispy pile of pickled cauliflower and carrots, are treasures you savor. One bite and I was already scheming on how I could replicate that smoked Gouda taste in my own kitchen. Compared to the veggies, the presentation of the eggs was spare, yet the rich, creamy flavor did the heavy lifting. 

The small bites simply whetted the appetite. The main dishes are more akin to “food moods” rather than entrees. The selection is unique — braised beef rice bowl with roasted daikon, arugula salad with poached pears, banh mi pizza (swear to god). My friend the shameless omnivore decided on the ramen nori, a gorgeous cacophony of tender, slow-roasted pork, bright bok choy, shiitake mushrooms and a second appearance of those coveted smoked eggs. That noodle-y, sweet broth concoction smelled like heaven when it came to the table.

After a little too much pondering, I justified going all out due to the looming shadow of Lent (and the big 4-0).

YOLO, people, with duck confit over spaetzle. The exterior of the duck was crispy and buttery; I thought I was eating a croissant. The meat inside perfectly salty and tender, in delightful contrast to the little “al dente” dumplings and vegetables, all covered (not smothered) with a grainy mustard sauce. It was perfection. My gluttony was totally satisfied.

We opted out of dessert, it seemed over the top. But out of curiosity I asked the server about the sweet treats, which change almost daily. A flight of cookies with dipping sauces? Damn.

Before we could extract our delighted tongues and full bellies from the restaurant, we were presented with two slightly suggestive, melt-in-your mouth fortune cookies. I don’t remember what my fortune said, but I left Prana with a newfound wisdom.

“We’re coming back here, a few times,” was all I could muster as the barkeep waved goodbye.

Prana Bar
325 Stockbridge Road, Great Barrington, MA
(413) 528-5433
Thursday – Monday, 5-10 p.m.

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Posted by Nichole on 02/06/17 at 12:28 PM • Permalink

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East Chatham Food Company: The Firemen’s Dream Come True

By Elizabeth Hartley

If you ever drove through East Chatham in years past, you were no stranger to The Cottage, a folksy low-slung eatery on the edge of town. For years, this popular spot served simple diner-style food and fresh-baked bread to locals and downstate travelers. Change eventually caught up with The Cottage and its owners retired some five years ago. 

Several new owners tried their hands, but none seemed able to get the traction needed to survive, let alone thrive. After its last failed incarnation, the place sat shuttered for 15 months. In stepped Rick Newton and Dave Shea, a couple of volunteer firemen from East Chatham, who bought and renovated the place and recently rolled out their own new eatery, the East Chatham Food Company, a whimsical take on their alter-identities in the East Chatham Fire Company. 
 
“Once you go through a few house fires together, you know whether or not you can work with a guy,” Newton says. Shea laughs and agrees. Trained as a chef at the CIA, Shea ran the respected Applewood restaurant in Brooklyn before moving full time to East Chatham a few years ago. He joined the fire company in 2012 and is now a lieutenant. Newton, a construction supervisor, moved to rural Columbia County as a kid. Also a lieutenant, he joined the fire company in 2008 and is its current president. 

Dave Shea and Rick Newton.

There’s no denying the trust that develops among men who have each other’s backs — and we mean that literally. Newton says, “We’re the two knuckleheads you see on the roof in a fire.” Their bond, it turns out, helped the two men transcend much of the normal stress associated with launching a business.

“Dave’s got the ability to do the food and I had the construction skills, and we respect each other’s expertise,” Newton says. Once the purchase was final in May 2016, he got right to work on overdue structural and cosmetic improvements: new lighting and flooring in the dining room, a new handicapped-accessible restroom, new HVAC system, all-new plumbing and a totally re-configured kitchen, as well as a handsome new bar (built by the local Hooper Cabinet Company), even correcting traffic bottlenecks in the main hallway, bar and kitchen. ECFC opened to the public in October 2016 with a clean new look and exciting menu, while retaining much of the familiar comfort of The Cottage. 

“We both really wanted to make the restaurant a community place, to be with the people we know and enjoy being around,” Newton says. “Finding the right staff happened for us quickly because we knew the whole fire company community.” That word — community — at ECFC begins with family; both men’s teen-aged children (five between them) welcome customers, bus tables or do kitchen prep. The restaurant became a family affair, with many hands attending to its decor, training, menu creation and other aspects of its progress. 

There’s a special for each night; Saturday night’s is prime rib with baked potato and salad. Photos: East Chatham Food Company.

“We follow the same general model as The Cottage and welcome the local community,” Shea says, but the emphasis at ECFC is on fresh and local ingredients (the owners even encouraged the farmstand in the parking lot to reopen) and a hipper menu. He buys from local purveyors as much as possible — easy to do with so many farms nearby. Grass-fed beef comes from Cynthia Creech’s Artemis Farm in New Lebanon, eggs from Feather Ridge, and most vegetables from Dick Klingler at Whistlestop Farm. Even libations are local; the bar features locally brewed beer from Chatham Brewing and S & S in Nassau.

The menu is sophisticated but family-friendly, with the usual fish and chips, burgers and grilled sandwiches (BLT, Reuben, goat cheese and roasted peppers, open-face roast beef) balanced by excellent salads (Caesar, Greek, roasted beet, wedge). The appetizer sampler, with a shrimp skewer, fried mozzarella and chicken tenders, is perfect for adults and their small children to share. 

“You know, you often don’t know you want to do something until you do it,” Newton says. “Now, I can’t imagine my life without the fire company or the restaurant.”   

East Chatham Food Company
1267 Rt. 295 (just outside the hamlet of East Chatham, NY)
Open daily except Tuesday, 9 a.m. – 9 p.m.
Reservations recommended for parties of 6 or more. 
(518) 392-5065

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Posted by Lisa Green on 01/23/17 at 06:01 PM • Permalink

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Brew & ‘Que Hits Home in Sheffield

By Nichole Dupont

Just a few short months ago, the only sign of life after dark in the center of Sheffield, Mass. was the light shining from the congregational church tower. But Berkshire native Jesse Watkins and his business partners Jim and Ana Olivieri changed all that when they opened Bash Bish Brew and ‘Que, a no frills — but still warm and welcoming — barbecue joint.

The thick wooden bar is the centerpiece of the vintage-style eatery. Bright red chairs and stools lend an ironic pop to the space, which is often full, even on week nights.

The simplicity should not fool you. The extensive beer selection — local Big Elm collection, Ballast Point Grapefruit Sculpin, Allagash White, Pabst, even Coors Light — is a perfect whistle wetter while you mull over the one-page, no-regrets menu.

And what a menu; the stuff of roadhouse dreams. Starter plates include loaded fries (with pulled pork, mozzarella and house gravy, $11); homemade pretzels with beer cheese and horseradish mustard, $6; and a slew of wings with your pick of sauce including Carolina vinegar, habanero-maple or buffalo, $11.

It goes on from there. Sandwiches — pulled pork or chicken, brisket — and burgers, including the Beetnik black bean, beet and quinoa patty ($14), are piled high and served with a healthy side of fries and coleslaw. Dinner platters, all served on aluminum trays, include thick brisket ($18), four-piece fried chicken ($25), St. Louis-style ribs ($16 for quarter rack), and the Pitmaster, a meat extravaganza of ribs, brisket, pulled pork and pulled chicken ($39).

There is no pretense of Southern authenticity here. All of the meat is smoked in-house, using rubs and an alchemy that Watkins and his pit team developed through a series of trial and error, and then success.

The meat is smoked to perfection. Maybe it’s the wood they use, which includes old whiskey staves from Berkshire Mountain Distillers and massive bundles of pear tree kindling that used to line Great Barrington’s main drag. Even the pulled chicken, which always runs the danger of being dry without some added sauce once it hits the plate, is juicy. Each meat has its own unique flavor, unaltered by an overabundance of sauce or so much doctoring it could be anything. The portions are generous. And the buttermilk batter is solid, not corn-flaky, yet it melts on the tongue and gives way to a tender, herby bite.

Meats are the star of the show, they almost have to be, but less than halfway through the meal we realize that the sides are not obligatory ornaments. The crisp and colorful coleslaw is fresh. The golden cornbread — made with a recipe handed down from Watkins’ preschool teacher to his mother, then to him — is nearly as thick as cake, the outside crisp and buttery. The baked beans (made with black beans) are rich with molasses and little bits of bacon. In fact, rendered bacon becomes the base for many of the sides, including the not-to-be-dismissed collard greens.

Brew & ‘Que collards will haunt you after the first bite. They’re salty in the best possible way, and soft (not soggy) and creamy. You can’t get a bite big enough to satisfy what is happening on your tongue. Watkins won’t reveal the exact secrets of this alchemical miracle, but he admits to using rendered bacon (among other ingredients) to etch out the bitterness and bring forward the earthy green.

My dinner date took a bite. Then another.

“I was not expecting that,” she said.

None of us were expecting Bash Bish Brew & ‘Que. We in South County had grown accustomed to the comfort food void. No longer.

Bash Bish Brew & ‘Que
113 Main St., Sheffield, MA
(413) 248-1187
Monday & Wednesday 5-9 p.m.; Thursday–Saturday, 12-3 p.m. & 5-9:30 p.m.

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Posted by Nichole on 12/02/16 at 08:44 AM • Permalink

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The CIA Takes “Special Culinary Event” To The Next Level

Photos courtesy of The Culinary Institute of America.

By Lisa Green

Somewhere on our “reasons why we love the Rural Intelligence region” you’ll find this: the famed Culinary Institute of Institute of America is right in our own back yard in Hyde Park, New York. The CIA may set the standard for excellence in professional culinary education — and it supplies our region with some of the finest chefs anywhere — but it’s also home to several distinguished restaurants at which the public is invited to sample the institute in action. It provides training for the students and a dining adventure for the rest of us.

Throughout the year, three of the restaurants in the CIA Restaurant Group present special dining events. The CIA has been offering these events for 25 years, and continues to come up with new themes. We had our eye on “Grandmere’s Kitchen” at The Bocuse Restaurant. That event has been filled, but that’s not stopping us, because there are other themed evenings coming up. In March, for instance, truffles — not the chocolate kind — figure prominently in one of them, as does pork (prepared five ways) and the street foods of France. (Note: Those three are not listed on the website yet, but we have it on good authority that they will be offered, so check the website periodically.)

If you’ve dined at the CIA, then you know the meaning of dining well. The maître d’ and restaurant managers are right out of central casting, and the student servers, who have been coached within an inch of their lives, explain each course upon presentation with aplomb.

Unlike at a non-themed meal, however, guests should expect to share their table with other dining enthusiasts (although private seating can be requested). There may be live music complementing the cuisine, too.

“At our Beefsteak event, we had the accompaniment of a brass band,” says Wally Malouf, director of Restaurant Operations. “We had a French horn player and bassoonist play lovely background music at our 2015 French Champagne Christmas event in The Bocuse Restaurant. Each event has a very special theme, and although they do not all have live music, they all give the guest something special to take away from the experience.” It’s unknown whether that includes doggie bags.

And a bit of advice: plan to let the experience unfold in a leisurely manner. The meal might take two-and-a-half to three hours (or more, according to some reviews on the website). While the CIA doesn’t have any special lodging packages, this is the kind of thing you don’t want to have to rush home after, and there are many hotels, bed and breakfasts and inns throughout the Hudson Valley that can accommodate special event guests. (You can find that sort of information on the Rural Intelligence apps.)

Even if the remaining special events of the year have been filled, you can still go for a non-themed meal at The Bocuse, American Bounty or Caterina de’ Medici restaurants…or plan now to attend one in the new year.

2017 Special Events at The CIA

Jan. 18, Chowders and Stews at American Bounty
The four-course lunch includes samplings of corn, New England and Manhattan clam chowders, braised beef stew and stewed chicken, and a dessert of braised fruit. $55, includes tax and tip.
Feb. 4, Fourth Annual Beefsteak in Farquharson Hall
A traditional “Beefsteak” banquet, which originated in the mid-1800s, to celebrate the pleasures and camaraderie of the communal table over food, beer and song. $150, includes tax and tip.
Feb. 8, Bold Blind Tasting, Danny Kaye Theatre and The Bocuse Restaurant
First, a blind wine tasting, then a meal of French classics created using modern techniques. $95, includes tax and tip.
Feb. 28, Cucina Regionale Piedmont at Caterina de’ Medici Restaurant
The five-course dinner includes tuna and anchovy crostini, bagna cauda, potato gnocci, zuppa di cipolla, mattonella al gianduia and biscotti, paired with three regional wines. $55, excludes tax and tip.

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Posted by Lisa Green on 11/30/16 at 05:35 PM • Permalink