Chaseo Opens In Chatham
How did a guy named Gallagher (first name Steve) get so hung up on Italian food? “I had an Italian girlfriend. Then I had an Italian boyfriend,” he explains. Fortunately, in the kitchen, Gallagher, who with partner Carl Berman recently opened Chaseo in Chatham, manages to keep his inner over-achiever in check. The food, while delicious, is simple and free of trickiness.
That his reach does not exceed his grasp is no small virtue in a restaurateur. Take, for example, the generous portion of pan-seared haddock topped with a tomato-and-garlic coulis that comes resting on a bed of freshly steamed spinach steeped in olive oil ($17). Flanked by white-and-wild rice and garlicky asparagus spears, it is a satisfying entree, but one that is simple enough to be prepared and presented to perfection by a staff that (I’m guessing here) never matriculated at Le Cordon Bleu. The pork medallions with apples and onions ($17.50) are not so much sauced as glazed with a brown-sugar-brandy reduction and served with mashed potatoes. For pasta-holics, there’s lobster ravioli ($15.50) topped with extra lobster in a sherry bisque sauce—not surprisingly, one of the most popular items on the menu. So is a devastating pot de creme ($6) made on the premises by Carol Downey with imported chocolate “we order on the internet.”
The atmosphere at Chaseo (pronounced Chase oh, after Gallagher’s beloved rescue-shelter dog) is a touch romantic. The music (an Il Divo CD plays at just the right level—audible yet not so loud that it interferes with conversation) pushes it perilously close to, well, that danger zone that got Gallagher going on Italian food.
34 Hudson Avenue (Rte. 66), Chatham, NY 518.392.8666
Tuesday-Thursday & Sunday, 5-9
Friday & Saturday, 5-10