La Cienega: A New Spot for Tacos off the Taconic
Posted by: Dan Shaw
Posted on: Thursday, July 03, 2008
Comments
La Cienega looks fantastic….and I love how it’s only 1.4 miles off the exit. Perfect for the Friday or Sunday night drives.
Thanks for sharing. Looking forward to trying it.
I thought the guacamole was tangy and delicious, and my vegetarian burrito stuffed with potato was tasty (and unusual), too. Thanks for the suggestion.
After living in Santa Barbara for 20 years, I have been desperate for authentic Mexican food. I’ve been so excited about the opening of La Cienega restaurant. EVERYONE I talk to, from Rhinebeck to Millerton, is excited about a local, genuine Mexican place to go to. The key is the chef and the food. Please Teepoo Riaz, make this work! We need a place like this! If you open it, they will come!
Teepoo is no longer involved with the restaurant. I haven’t been back since, but I am curious to hear reports on how it is faring without him
Unfortunately, I cannot vouch for the food under new ownership as I will never try it. However, I did have an interaction with a woman at the restaurant who I believe was the owner. Here is a recap of that interaction: I was on my way back home from Yankee stadium with my son. We were driving up the Taconic when I heard those four words you never want to hear from your 3 year old on a highway in the country, “I have to poop!” Panicked, I pulled off on one of the sidestreets with no luck. We got back on the Taconic and I got off at the next exit…nothing. Next stop was a rest area/park and ride, but no restrooms. Back on the Taconic again! Next exit we got off again and after a mile or two I see a restaurant. Thank goodness. And a Mexican restaurant to boot (I own a Mexican restaurant myself)! La Cienega looked warm and inviting. Unfortunately, it was anything but warm and inviting. We walked in the front door and I immediately saw the bathroom. Not wanting to be rude, I waited for the woman on the floor to acknowledge me. She quickly did and asked if we wanted a table for two. I said, “actually, we are having a bathroom emergency and wanted to use the restroom.” She said, “I’m sorry…dinner for two?” Shocked and befuddled I said, “It’s an EMERGENCY!” She said, “I’m sorry but the bathroom is for customers only. Would you like a table?” I said, “He’s three years old!” She said, “Do you know how many parents come in with their kids and trash the bathrooms?” I told her I would never “trash her bathroom” and that I own a restaurant myself and walked out the door. I believe the woman was the owner of the restaurant, but I didn’t have time to ask her as I was in complete shock and my son really needed to use the bathroom. The trip to the Yankee game was amazing, my son’s first game. It’s funny, as we were pulling up to La Cienega I thought to myself that it was fate that the first place we finally found was a Mexican restaurant and we could make a stop at the restaurant during our trips home from Yankee games in the future. Start a tradition. Of course, I will never eat there since we were treated so poorly. As a restaurant owner (and property owner for that matter), I suppose it is anyone’s prerogative whether or not they let someone use their facilities. Customers or not, I just can’t get over how someone in the service industry could treat a three year old in need so poorly.
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Anytime a new restaurant opens that isn’t serving “American bistro food” it’s a cause for celebration. And that’s why the Literary Lady sent me an urgent, enthusiastic email last week after her first meal at La Cienega, a one-week-old restaurant in Milan, NY (halfway between Pine Plains and Rhinebeck, and 1.4 miles west of the Taconic Parkway exit). She gave me a brief sketch on the owner: “His name is Teepoo; he’s Pakistani but running a Mexican restaurant and just quit his job as a litigator at a white shoe law firm.”
Teepoo Riaz, who had an all America childhood in St. Louis, is not another Manhattan lawyer-turned-restaurateur who’s had a midlife crisis—he’s too young. After practicing corporate defense for a couple of years, he decided what he really wanted to do was open a restaurant. To learn the ropes, he went to work for a big New York caterer as a banquet manager, which taught him what he did not want to do. “Catering in New York is about selling real estate for an evening,” he says. “I was interested in restaurants because I love food.”
Meanwhile, he and his wife, Dr. Marisa Kollmeier, an oncologist at Memorial Sloan-Kettering in New York, who has an infectious smile, bought a weekend house in Pine Plains. “I realized if I opened a restaurant in the city I would have to stay there on weekends, and I’d never see my wife so I decided I would open one here,” he says. “And yes, my wife the cancer doctor is a bartender on weekends.” When he learned the old Milan Roadhouse was available, he decided it would be ideal for the kind of unpretentious and fun Mexican restaurant he envisioned. “I lived in LA for ten years and once you’ve eaten Mexican food in LA you are hooked for life,” he says. “I hope people say our food reminds them of LA. It would be even better if they say it reminds them of Mexico.”
So far, La Cienega shows great promise. It still looks like a rough-and-tumble roadhouse from the outside, but inside it looks like a Hazmat team from Martha Stewart has passed through, giving the restaurant a fresh, clean pared-down country feel. If you’re craving a margarita, you’re out of luck because the restaurant only has a wine and beer license for now, but the Chilada beer cocktail—you pour beer into a salt-rimmed glass with lime juice—is a refreshing compromise. The tacos are the real thing: soft corn tortillas with diced fillings ranging from chicken and beef to shrimp and chorizo. You get a trio with bowls of rice and beans for $12. The chef seems to be timid when it comes to spice, and we added bottled hot sauce to the salsa and guacamole served with warm chips. But for a week-old restaurant run by a former Manhattan lawyer, La Cienega has potential to be hot.
La Cienega
1215 Route 199, Milan, NY; 845-758-8333
Wednesday, Thursday & Sunday 5:30 - 9:30; Friday & Saturday 5:30 - 10:30
