Posted by: Dan Shaw
Posted on: Wednesday, November 04, 2009
We went last weekend, and man was I happy! Millerton finally has another great restaurant. - I enjoy Manna Dew, and Hamilton House, but we needed another choice. It was lovely. I had a beet salad with fabulous smoked trout and skate for dinner. My daughter had the burger and fries, which was delicious (though the fries were a little soft). Nice little french chard as a white by the glass was a good choice. The menu is very interesting and well done. They accommodated us graciously as walk-ins, though the place was busy. It has a really nice feel to it, cozy, but alive. The music gave it a nice vibe, though a couple of selections were a bit loud. Entrance is in the back of Simmon’s Way…was a little hard to figure that out at first, but people will get used to it. Highly recommend this new beauty.
I own a restaurant in Chelsea in Greater London, and I agree that providing comfort and best dishes to the customers should not be tagged as expensive. I saw their prices and I agree that they are worth.
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Who would dare open a white tablecloth restaurant in this economy? A young couple like chef Tim Cocheo, 31, and his wife, Taryn, 30, who were half the team behind the now-shuttered Bottle Tree Grocery in Ancram, which had a cult-like following for its $49 prix fixe dinners on Friday and Saturday nights and its decadent Sunday brunch. Now, the Cocheos have opened No. 9 Restaurant and given the dining room at Millerton’s Simmon’s Way Village Inn a Cinderella makeover. From the street (the address is Main Street, but the entrance is on Century Boulevard), the restaurant gives off a golden glow that fills you with optimism. When you walk in the door, you are not disappointed: the dining room feels like a warm embrace—mustard walls with wainscoting painted a Provençal green, brass sconces with silk shades that cast a flattering light, a large, homey patterned carpet (donated by Joan Osofsky of Hammertown Barn), and a state-of-the-art sound system playing the kind of music that makes you feel like you’re at a really swell dinner party. And in a way you are: Cocheo—who cooked in New York at the late, great La Caravelle and Wallse and then at Wheatleigh in Lenox, MA, before moving to the Bottle Tree—is a serious chef. He brings a haute cuisine mindset to country cooking, and he’s put together a small menu with great variety. The first courses include a delicate yellowtail crudo with lemon confit, sea beans, jicama and Tuscan olive oil ($14), an earthy porcini mushroom risotto with truffle foam that’s not the least bit fussy ($13), and Sky Farm field greens with Coach Farm goat cheese ($8). The entrees range from a Herondale Farm chicken ballotine stuffed with wild mushrooms ($23) and grilled Scottish salmon with Champagne sauce ($23) to Weinerschnitzel with lingonberries and potato-cucumber salad ($22) to the No. 9 Herondale beef burger that’s served with French fries ($12). The desserts include a rich, deconstructed ice cream “sandwich” and a light pumpkin souffle served with crème anglaise. This is a restaurant where you want to linger over a second cup of coffee or a third glass of wine, because being at No. 9 gives you that elusive feeling that all’s right with the world. —Dan Shaw
53 Main Street, Millerton; 518.592.1299
Dinner: Tuesday - Saturday 5:30 - 10