Red Devon
Posted by: Dan Shaw
Posted on: Saturday, April 18, 2009
Comments
Fabulous brunch yesterday, and I’m REALLY picky (truly!). Do go and bring your family. And google maps it if you don’t know exactly where it is. The drive through gorgeous horse country is part of the pleasure.
If you’re a weekender, Red Devon is easy to get to on the way upstate and down. Just get off the Taconic at Rte. 44 and take 82 north, making a short detour to Bangall. We’ve stopped on the way up (the market at Red Devon serves lunch, indoors as well as on the airy porch) and on the way back for the truly fabulous brunch. The only drawback at brunch for some might be the basket of flaky pastries served along with one’s order which yesterday consisted of cream cheese berry danish and blueberry scones!
an oasis as the crossroads of horse country and meandering farmland….YUM. Support this place, because most of their offerings include local ingredients or are locally produced, and much is organic. If we don’t support our local farmers and restaurants (as well as shops and services, etc), they might not be there for us when we want them!
Their baking, done on premises, is phenomenal. Too phenomenal! The staff is generally friendly and knowledgeable. Cozy fireplace for winter evenings. Their take out is busy busy on weekend mornings so get there early.
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Full Article
In a region where every other restaurant is off the beaten path, Red Devon in the hamlet of Bangall (in the town of Stanford, between Millbrook and Pine Plains) can be challenging to get to if you are not familiar with these back roads. But it is worth going out of your way because there is a chef in the kitchen who knows how to take first rate local ingredients and optimize their essential flavors. There’s nothing more commmonplace than a roasted-beet-and-goat-cheese salad, but Red Devon’s version is exemplary; each element works to support the other like musicians in really good band. A special appetizer of crispy pork belly ($15) came with green lentils, pickled ramps and fresh chervil; the crisp pork was countreintuitively melt-in-your mouth crisp. It’s clear that the chef has an affinity for pork; the seared pork “porterhouse” au poivre ($27) was another winner and so were its accompaniments—thick steak fries that had an earthy potatoness and wilted escarole in hot bacon dressing. And while having a full dinner can be expensive, we were handed a bar menu in the handsome main dining room that features homemade hot dogs ($5.99 with sauerkraut and $6.99 with chile and cheese) and southern fried chicken ($18) But it’s not just the food that is spot on: the young, attractive servers have been well-trained and they are unfailingly polite. The dining room is at once airy and cozy—a place you want to linger with a brandy or second cup of coffee. Red Devon is definitely worth a detour.
108 Hunns Lake Road; 845.868.3175
Dinner: Thursday - Saturday 6 - 9:30 p.m.
Sunday brunch: noon - 3 p.m
Sunday dinner: 5:30 - 8:30 p.m.
Closed Tuesday & Wednesday
