Market St. — Italian ‘Fusion Without Confusion’ In Rhinebeck
Photo by Matt Petricone for Roll Magazine.
By Andrea Pyros
You might think that after opening “30, 35” restaurants (he’s lost count), Chef Gianni Scappin wouldn’t bat an eye over launching a new eatery. When Rural Intelligence talked to the charming pro, he was deep in preparations for his latest launch, Gusto, in Poughkeepsie. We met up with him at Market St., his two-year-old homestyle Italian restaurant in the heart of Rhinebeck, where Scappin admitted that he’s “never comfortable” about starting another venture.
But at this point he’s earned the right to more confidence than just about anyone on Hudson Valley’s dining scene. After all, the Italian-born and trained chef has cooked at top restaurants in major cities throughout the world; served as a guest chef at the James Beard House; helped develop an advanced Italian cooking class for the Culinary Institute of America where he continues to teach today; co-authored four cookbooks, including one with friend Stanley Tucci; and is currently feeding happy diners at Cucina (Woodstock), Gusto and Market St.
Food photos by Keith Ferris.
Though it entered into a town with other excellent dining options, Market St. has managed to make a name for itself, and it’s become a popular spot for locals as well as weekend tourists who appreciate Scappin and his team’s fresh, vibrant menu and emphasis on hospitality. “It’s a little bit fusion, but without confusion,” Scappin laughs, adding that Market stays within his Italian/Mediterranean roots, for example by using extra virgin olive oil in the place of butter or cream to provide that “green freshness,” and updating the menu four to five times a year to work with the season’s ingredients.
During a recent visit, we started with rich, flavorful grass-fed beef meatballs with tomato and organic polenta ($8.50), a perfectly balanced bruschetta Parma with mozzarella, prosciutto, olive oil and aged balsamic ($9.50), and a simple salad of roasted beets, Coach Farm goat cheese and arugula ($11.50) dressed with a tangy vinaigrette. The wood oven pizzas and breads are a major presence on the menu (not surprising, considering Scappin made the wood-burning oven Market St.’s focal point). Try the Caprina (fig-herb spread, Coach Farm goat cheese, pear, arugula and truffle oil, $17) or Boscaiola (mixed mushrooms, mozzarella, tomato and herbs, $16.50). They’re cooked perfectly, with crispy, thin crusts and complementary flavors that provide maximum impact. Pastas and risottos are hard to resist — they’re bursting with top-quality ingredients, and gluten-free and whole-wheat options are available. But save room; Satisfying main dishes like a slowly baked salmon with snap peas, potato puree, and black truffle vinaigrette ($26) and a local aged ribeye steak with crispy fingerling potatoes, chickpeas, sage and spicy aioli ($32) are waiting for your enjoyment, too.
If you feel like exploring, try one of the specialty cocktails, such as the ginger margarita ($11) or a “Burnt Venetian,” made with vodka, aperol, lemon syrup, and prosecco ($12). Italian wines dominate the wine list, but there are a few French and California choices as well. Our party’s non-drinker had a mint iced tea special that provided enough kick to beat back the early evening’s heat, and there are also non-alcoholic house made sodas ($6).
Ingredients, whenever possible, are sourced locally from spots like Sky Farms, Hudson Valley Cattle Company, Wild Hive Farm, Heermance and others. Scappin has been in the Hudson Valley for close to 13 years, so he’s learned firsthand the difficulties of dealing with winter, and is as appreciative as anyone of the beautiful, bountiful spring, summer and fall seasons. The Rural Intelligence area is a “great melting pot,” he enthuses. His only wish is that there were more industries to bring work and money to the local population. “You want your children to stay in the area, not have to move to California or Boston.”
Scappin does his part, employing a good number of locals in his restaurants. At Market St., the staff — friendly, cheerful and uniformly gorgeous — will answer questions and steer you towards their favorites. Scappin believes strongly in the true meaning of hospitality: making people feel good and building a relationship. “If you’re abusive, you’re doomed,” he warns. “We concentrate on small details, and it’s always continuous work. We never give up. There is always something better we can do.”
19 West Market Street, Rhinebeck
Monday through Thursday 5-10 p.m.
Friday & Saturday 5-11 p.m.
Sunday 4-10 p.m.
Brunch served from 11 a.m.-3 p.m. on Saturdays & Sundays.
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Pera Mediterranean Bistro Brings A New Accent To Williamstown
By Amy Krzanik
The first thing you notice about Pera’s owner, Fahri Karakaya, is that he’s there. I mean, he’s in the restaurant and he’s handing you the menu and he’s pouring your water and he’s checking on your food. The restaurant employs friendly servers, so these things aren’t necessarily his job, but Karakaya does them gladly because he wants to make sure your visit to Pera is enjoyable.
Karakaya was born and raised in Turkey, and worked for ten years in the Pera district of Istanbul. Though very well traveled (14 countries and counting), Karakaya decided to move to his favorite country, the U.S., in 2001 to study Hotel and Restaurant Management in Connecticut. After taking an internship in Florida, he settled there for 11 years, earning an MBA, and working as a food and beverage manager at The Breakers in Palm Beach, one of the world’s toniest hotels. He returned to the Northeast only when his wife, Mel, was offered the job of innkeeper at The Porches in North Adams.
The Pera Sampler ($15) includes hummus, tabouli, grape leaves, falafel and smoky grilled eggplant puree. Photo by Ralph Hammann.
The move to the Berkshires was a lifestyle change in many ways for Karakaya; after excelling for years in the upper echelons of his industry, he now found himself unemployed and, frankly, bored. Karakaya looked for work for several months with no success. Even though he had 30 years of experience under his belt (the man had even taken a 6-month-long wine course!), Karakaya says he wasn’t looking for pay commensurate with what he was making at The Breakers. “The money was not important to me,” he says. “I just wanted to work, to use what I know to help people.”
He eventually gave up and had a heart to heart — with himself. “I said ‘Fahri, you’re old, short, bald and ugly. No one wants to hire you, so you need to start your own business.’”
He opened what is now TaBellas Italian Cuisine in North Adams in April of 2012, but had his eyes trained on Pera’s current home on Spring Street in Williamstown. He’d noticed the busy street had an international flavor (Indian, Thai and Japanese, Mexican), yet no Mediterranean establishment. “It was always a dream to have this spot,” he says, and last year, he got it. Pera opened this past October and weathered (sometimes literally) a long, slow winter. But locals have taken to his new venture, and the restaurant’s word of mouth is good.
From top: Sauteed falafel, Greek salad, and spanikopita that the author couldn’t wait to eat.
And, more importantly, so is the food. I’ve always been a fan of spanikopita, and Pera’s Executive Chef Randall Beaudoin does it well — a deliciously flaky appetizer with just the right spinach-to-feta ratio. Falafel, too, has always been a favorite, but until I had it at Pera I had absolutely no idea what I was missing. Falafel usually comes round and deep-fried, but Pera’s appetizer ($8) is flat, sautéed in olive oil and served with cusabi dipping sauce (a creamy concoction made with cucumbers and wasabi). Consider me a falafel snob from now on.
In fact, nothing on Pera’s menu is fried; the lamb for the lamb burger ($10, with arugula, feta cheese, and cusabi dressing) is ground fresh daily; the menu includes seasonal offerings like a summer watermelon salad; and the popular mussels appetizer changes flavors daily. Dinner ($15-$29) is a mix of American and Mediterranean dishes, and includes the popular Calamari Fra Diablo, Mediterranean scrod, and chicken or lamb kebabs.
Save room for dessert ($6-$7), though, because they’ve got amazing baklava, gelato from SoCo Creamery as well as flourless chocolate cake and Irish whiskey cake from Crazy Russian Girls Neighborhood Bakery located right over the border in Bennington.
Karakaya and Beaudoin excel at their goal of serving quality food at affordable prices. And locals appreciate it, evidenced by a packed house at lunch and dinner times. Outside tables are available, but the inside, with its warm colors, elegant dark wood tables and nighttime candlelight, might be even better.
Pera Mediterranean Bistro
60 Spring Street, Williamstown, MA
Open Sunday—Wednesday from 11 a.m.-9 p.m.
Thursday, Friday & Saturday from 11 a.m.-10 p.m.
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Review: The Bistro Box Is A Roadside Classic
By Nichole Dupont
There are those places that are just cursed. You know the kind. Switches hands every 1 to 3 years, nobody really knows what kind of food they serve anymore. You tentatively step into each new rendition only to leave disappointed or gripping your stomach with regret. There are a few “cursed” eatery locations here, so when I saw the new sign along Route 7 in Great Barrington I groaned. The perpetually red summer hot dog shack was now freshly painted and the new sign was up. The Bistro Box. I was skeptical.
But I should not have been. The Bistro Box, true to its name, is a roadside eatery that offers up fresh, homemade, hard-working picnic food. It’s a place you can take a lunch break or where you can proudly take a date for a vintage-inspired evening sitting under a pine grove enjoying the company of true love and damn tasty onion rings. On a beautiful day (which we’ve had several of), the parking lot is indiscriminately packed with vehicles and people – Ford F150s, Audis, minivans, grandparents with their grandkids, golfers, contractors taking a break. This is a place for everyone to enjoy the fleeting months of summer and the nostalgia of a perfect ice cream float.
Do not mistake roadside shack fare for “options limited: just deal with it.” The Bistro Box has all the basics but they’re the kind of “basic” that harkens back to a time when toys didn’t break on the first go-round: Wholesome, actual good food made from real ingredients (not pre-frozen, pre-packaged imposters). Take the onion rings for example. Fresh, dipped in a golden batter with a hint of cornmeal, lightly fried and served with a ketchup aioli (they call it box sauce) that we couldn’t get enough of. Fried dill pickles, same signature batter with a homemade buttermilk ranch dip. The menu also includes burgers and dogs, paninis, hand-cut fries (lots of choices like garlic and fresh herbs, parmesan and truffle oil, chili cheese), cold-brewed coffee, savory salads, and for starving, newly minted vegetarians, the falafel burger: a homemade chickpea patty topped with crispy “quick” pickles and red pepper feta spread.
Because we are talking essentially about a roadside stand, I have to mention that nothing that emerged from The Bistro Box was drowning in grease (which is the expectation for these little places). The food is crisp, the portions are perfect, and everything is reasonably priced (nothing more than $8). Obviously a lot of love has gone into making the little Bistro Box a place to come back to. Owners Nick and Birdie Joseph opened The Bistro Box in 2010 as a mobile food business. Their adventures have taken them from Nantucket to Florida to the Caribbean but they’ve always had an eye toward the Berkshires (Nick grew up in the area). When the little red shack went up for sale this past winter – they’ve been eying the place for awhile – the couple scooped it up immediately and so far everyone has pulled out of there with a faraway smile and maybe a little chocolate on their lips.
In a busy world, The Bistro Box is the perfect oasis of milkshakes (made with local ice cream) and memories. Get out of your car, stay and enjoy an impromptu picnic. No T.V., no iPhone, just you, your honey, and some damn fine food.
The Bistro Box
Rt. 7—937 Main Street, Great Barrington, MA
Monday, Tuesday & Thursday—Saturday 11 a.m.—7 p.m.
Sunday 11 a.m.—5 p.m., Closed Wednesdays until summertime.
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Copake Ag Center A Big Opportunity For Small Farmers
Jenny Elliott of Tiny Hearts Farm on the “new” 1951 tractor.
By Nichole Dupont
Pop open any regional real estate guide, and you will notice a cornucopia of old Victorians, rambling farmhouses and beautiful New England vistas. But the real estate that Monet would deem as priceless, in fact, comes with a hefty tag that for decades has threatened to push small farmers right out of the market and out of business. Yet, this region is fast-becoming a farm hub where growers, eaters, markets and restaurants collide and no one wants to see that human ecosystem break because of pricey land. Enter Northeast Farm Access (NEFA), a farm consulting organization (based in Keene, NH) — comprised of veteran community developers, loan underwriters, attorneys and farmers — that connects investors with farmers and farmers with land (and resources) from Maine to New York.
Project map of the Copake Ag Center.
“Our goal is to find farmland for farmers and to decrease the loss of good farmland,” says Laura Hartz, NEFA’s Director of Operations. “Usually we approach some kind of farm that is in transition and facing a critical decision, and see if we can work with the seller to make sure it stays on as a farm.”
NEFA’s latest project is the Copake Agricultural Center, a 197-acre amalgamation of land that crosses the town’s center. The organization and its investors closed on the land in December of last year, and despite the still-frozen ground, the Center became a hot ticket for those looking to farm in the area.
“We had about a dozen farmer applicants almost immediately,” Hartz says. “It’s a huge opportunity, when you think about what the lease — a long lease —includes: affordable housing, proximity to market, good soil and access to water. We’ve got some pretty excited farmers.”
Enthusiasm is great, but securing a long-term lease at the Copake Ag Center requires a lot more than a desire to sow some seeds and wear flannel year-round. Hartz says that when NEFA staffers were sifting through the applications, certain requirements — some flexible, some firm — were a must. For starters, farmers had to fit the USDA definition of a beginning farmer; one who hadn’t farmed for more than 10 years consecutively and who was willing to substantially contribute day-to-day labor on the farm. Definitely not a problem for Luke Franco and Jenny Elliott, owner/operators of Tiny Hearts Farm, a cut flower (and dried and hanging) business that had its base at a one-acre plot in Westchester. They jumped at the opportunity to join the Copake Ag Center. But don’t let their fresh faces fool you; Franco and Elliott are savvy growers with a veteran’s vision.
Tiny Hearts Farm stand at Cold Spring market (first market of 2014).
“Jenny trained for four years as a veggie grower, but we looked at who was doing what and we found it; our niche. Cut flowers,” Franco says. “The response was just amazing. We were surprised. You can’t live on bread alone and flowers feed a whole other part of our existence. If you look at the whole farm-to-table movement, the flower industry is super behind the curve. You still get wholesale, imported blooms that are loaded with fumigants and fertilizers and the scent has been bred right out of them. Sitting there in a vase next to your local, organic greens and grass-fed local beef.”
Since moving to the new plot in Copake (with room, lots of room, to grow), Tiny Hearts Farm may soon just be a name, as Franco and Elliott — both music majors before they were called to the soil — have a business plan that includes acres of dahlias and peonies, weddings galore and more farmers markets. Just recently, the duo made their first major farm purchase: a 1951 Farmall Super C tractor.
Max of MX Morningstar Farm prepping seedlings.
“We’re tripling production this year and we’ve got a lot more land to farm. That tractor is a beast,” Franco says, laughing. “It’s definitely a seat-of-my-pants learning curve. The other farmers have been very helpful with the tractor.”
Those other farmers include MX Morningstar, a 62-acre vegetable outfit and Sparrow Arc, also a vegetable producer originally from Portland, Maine. The farmers, despite being independent growers, end up spending a lot of time together sharing equipment, storage facilities and advice, and this is exactly what NEFA wants, especially in a region where big developers froth at the mouth when they catch wind of a possible farm for sale.
“We’ve had the support of so many different conservation groups to help us secure easements on the [Copake] property. They are critical partners in all ways,” Hartz says. “This is multilayered; it benefits everything from the local food system to species diversity. I don’t see it as a trend. People want to farm. They are choosing to farm.”(0) Comments
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Review: Pleasant & Main Is A Housy Hub
By Nichole Dupont
I have this friend who used to live on the Lower East Side, and I would take the train into Manhattan to visit her in her little shoebox on the ninth floor. Saturday would be devoted to museum hopping, bargain hunting, and a Broadway show followed by way too many drinks at a dive bar just downstairs from her place. And yet, despite the high-octane city shuffle of Saturday, what I looked forward to the most was Sunday brunch before catching the train back to the sticks. She had “a place” that was comfortable, a place that welcomed — with natural light, great omelets and strong coffee — our sad debauched souls. I’ve been on the hunt for “a place” for years, and it looks like, for certain, I have found it.
Pleasant & Main (on the corner of, well, you guessed it) in Housatonic, Mass. is a like a pirate’s treasure chest; the outside appears unassuming, even dingy, but once you open it up the realization that you’ve struck pure gold is immediate. High-ceilinged, red-walled, sprawling, the café has an old-timey ambience that meets somewhere comfortably in the middle of Cheers, a bistro in Paris and your grandmother’s front parlor. The wide-open dining room is flanked on either end by massive wooden shelves chock full of collectibles (most for sale), from silver candlesticks to kitschy 1950s fishing gear. Natural light floods through the front portion of the café, highlighting the giant stained glass window that is a definitive feature of the space, which formerly housed Jack’s Grill, a summer hub that closed some four years ago.
But grandiose windows and glittering knick knacks are just that without good food. Not surprisingly, Pleasant & Main does not disappoint on the gastronomic end. It has the kind of menu that diners will savor again and again, perhaps settling at last on a favorite dish.
The menu is unpretentious; a daily offering of veggie quiche (always with a side of fresh greens) delights with a light crust, the savory eggs Florentine is topped with a healthy dollop of classic hollandaise that literally melts in the mouth. The croissants are perfect and buttery and the coffee — be it espresso, latte, cappuccino – is never bitter and perfectly hot. A basic lunch lineup of turkey clubs, egg salad and burgers is thickened with European home-food options like savory ratatouille crepes, Croque Monsieur and beet and goat cheese salad.
These little extras pay homage to the café’s mastermind, veteran restaurateur Craig Bero, who spent the last 35 years on the food scene in Manhattan and the lower West Village, most recently as the owner/operator of the Cosmopolitan Café in Tribeca. Bero packed up his impressive collection of antique silver and fishing gear (he is an avid angler) and he, along with long time chef Sixto Rodriguez, set up shop in Housatonic in late March after seeing a for rent sign on the door in January. (Bero, a Wisconsin native, has a cabin in Hillsdale, N.Y. that was his escape from the Big Apple for decades.) So far, so very good. Along with breakfast/brunch and lunch, the café dishes up community suppers Thursday-Saturday nights, with a simple menu that rotates with the chef’s creativity, Bero’s fastidiousness and Mother Nature’s palate. In keeping with the simple sophistication of the daytime eats, the suppers provide simple, unfettered fare with a twist; beef pot roast with a burgundy gravy, lamb shepherd’s pie, orange sunshine cake.
Perhaps the real sunshine is Bero himself, who quietly yet purposefully trolls the dining room, making sure everyone is happy, well fed, and deep in conversation. Be warned, he is a generous and convincing soul (must be that Midwest spirit). I was happy with my quiche. I told him it was perfect. I sipped at my coffee, and yet somehow, there I was, with a pleasantly full belly staring down at a lemon crepe.
After polishing off the whole thing, it dawned on me, that that tangy, incredibly light, yet somehow nostalgic confection was what I was after. What we are all chasing after. That signature dish, you will find it here. I promise you.
Pleasant & Main
1063 Main Street
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RI’s Hamburger Helper
When we came up with the idea of doing a hamburger roundup similar to the one we did on egg sandwiches,we wondered not if we could gather enough really great hamburgers in our region, but if enough people would be willing to do the reviewing. Turns out it wasn’t a problem finding burger tasters; most people seem to have their favorite go-to place for the classic American item.
This is not anywhere near a complete list; it’s just our small staff and some readers’ picks for their preferred hamburger spot. In the end, the “best burger” is often the one nearest wherever you happen to be when hunger strikes.
The Brick House Pub
Full disclosure: I go to The Brick House in Housatonic at least once a week. Everything is locally sourced and super fresh. The burger buns are from literally a mile down the road at Berkshire Mountain Bakery, the greens on top from Equinox Farms in Sheffield and desserts are house-made. The pizzas here are wildly popular but I always order a burger. It’s a steal at $13 because you get huge portions and I always customize it to suit my mood. Sometimes it’s avocados or jalapeños, or I switch out the meat for their awesome house-made veggie burger. This time, I got the farmer’s burger with bacon, cheddar and a perfectly prepared sunny-side egg on top. It comes on the aforementioned Berkshire Mountain Bakery bread and your choice of salad or the fries, but you can up-charge for truffle fries. And you should get the truffle fries. Seriously. The great food, combined with the relaxed atmosphere and spot-on service always makes for a good time at the Brick House. —Rachel Louchen
I don’t eat hamburgers all that often, but when I do, I go for the one people called the best long before hamburgers became a gourmet food. The Big Beef, six ounces of chopped sirloin broiled over an actual flame, mightily satisfies, with a charred crispness on the outside, and juicy with a smoky flavor inside. The basic burger is only $5 (I added lettuce and tomato for an extra quarter). A plain cheeseburger is $5.25 and $6 if you add bacon; traditional thin French fries are $3.35. The Lantern offers not just the best burger, but the best deal in town. —Paul Verdi
The Lantern Bar & Grill
455 North Street, Pittsfield
Public Eat + Drink
I’ve always been a big fan of buns (all kinds). But since I’ve gone gluten-free, my burger options have been severely limited unless I want to order one sans bun. But that’s no fun, and not very filling, either. That’s why I was “over the moon” to find out that Public in North Adams was serving burgers with a gluten-free bun option. They offer four kinds of burger, but my favorite is their BBQ version with house bbq sauce, cheddar, onion rings, and bacon, served with fries and a pickle (11.90 + 1.50 for the g.f. bun). You can also add a fried egg to any burger for an additional $1.50, but the BBQ burger is enough for me, what with the huge, sweet fried onion ring that comes on top of it. Be sure to let them know if you are severely gluten intolerant, though, as the fries and onion ring might not be a good bet for you if you are. —Amy Krzanik
The Marketplace Café
As a vegetarian, I know that anything that calls itself a veggie burger is a far cry from actual ground beef. But here’s the good news: the “Not a Hippie” veggie burger ($7.75) at The Marketplace Café is so much better! With its almost innumerable ingredients, it’s not something I would ever replicate at home. Here’s a partial list: chia seed, onion, carrot, basmati rice, lentil, bulgar and black bean, rendered into an oversized patty topped with tomatillo salsa and chipotle aioli, and slid between dense and slightly grilled ciabatta bread. The sauce gives it a kick, and the lettuce, tomato and onion makes it feel like anybody else’s hamburger. It’s as filling as a beef version, but (dare I say this) probably a lot healthier, and it’s vegan, too. —Lisa Green
The Marketplace Café
53 North Street, Pittsfield
Grazin’ is an all American neighborhood diner whose specialty is cheeseburgers, along with offering the complete farm to table experience in an iconic diner on the main street of a town notorious for its serious historic aesthetic. Grazin’ doesn’t simply buy from local farms,; they actually farm their own beef, and the chickens who provide the eggs for a slew of gorgeous omelets wander their 400 acre farm also. The night we ate at Grazin’, my compatriot was especially hungry so went for the big ‘ol burger, the “BOB,” ($18.75), a 10 oz-er, dressed with pawlette cheese (one of their favorites and while similar to cheddar is creamy and delicious) and onions sautéed in bacon lard, an arresting and mouthwatering detail. My “Uncle Dude” ($15.80)came with Hawthorne Valley Cheddar, Grazin’s own bacon, chipotle mayo and jalapeno relish, towered with fresh tomato and lettuce on a perfectly toasted fluffy bun. It was a rainy Friday night, and I was already planning a Sunday brunch back at Grazin’, for omelets and maybe a coffee milkshake. —Mary Vaughn Williams
717 Warren Street, Hudson
Old Chatham Country Store & Café
The cheeseburger at the Old Chatham Country Store is 8 ounces of USDA prime (80% lean), comes on a superior brioche bun with lettuce, a couple of slices of tomato, a crispy spear of dill pickle, and a generous side of freshly cut shoestring fries. It’s a bargain at $10.99 (or $10.25 without the cheese). Also on the menu: a turkey or vegetarian option for your non-meat eating companion. —Marilyn Bethany
Enjoying a meal at the Millbrook Café is similar to being spoiled at your neighbor’s dinner party. The family operated restaurant is run by Polish husband and wife team Alex and Dominika Kowalczyk. Chef Alex cooks using a 19th-century-style fired brick oven and grill while Dominika assists in the kitchen and provides attentive service. The Angus Beef Burger from Walbridge Farm (also located in Millbrook) is smoky and savory served on a ciabatta roll and layered with the usual fixings of onions, tomato and lettuce. In place of fries, you get your choice rice pilaf or potato salad , and the fresh fruit and dark chocolate fondue are part of the deal. The Angus Burger starts at $10; add cheese for $1 and bacon for $2. —Arvolyn Hill
The Millbrook Cafe
3288 Franklin Ave, Millbrook
White Horse Country Pub and Restaurant
The White Horse in Marbledale came highly recommended by Litchfield County foodies and the jam-packed crowd of guests who filled the restaurant on a sunny Saturday afternoon gave a good indication of the quality food that awaited. Everything here was across-the-board great: decor, service and of course, the delicious burgers. I went with the Akaushi burger which for $13.75 gets you a generously portioned kobe-style beef patty with caramelized onions, sautéed mushrooms, poblano chillies and sriracha ketchup. It was unique burger with a bite (just one recommendation from the professional chef I was dining:: order them closer on the rare side). The plate presentation is also worth noting — a charming horse symbol comes seared on top of the brioche roll, just in case you could possibly forget where you were dining. —Rachel Louchen
White Horse Country Pub and Restaurant
Rt 202, Marbledale
The Village Restaurant
The Village’s Classic burger is just that: perfect in its simplicity. For $9 you get a choice patty of savory ground beef cooked to your preference, complete with lettuce, tomato and onion upon request and sandwiched between two halves of a golden-brown hard roll (crispy on the outside and malleable on the inside). Pick either the fries, fresh greens, or cole as your side order. Sticking to the basics isn’t always this rewarding, which makes this hamburger even more satisfying. —Taylor Cannon
The Village Restaurant
25 West Street, Litchfield
As the Kingsley Tavern reaches its first birthday, it is hard to believe the restaurant is still a newbie in Kent’s eatery scene. Residents and visitors instantly fell for owner Anna Gowan’s offerings of diverse entrees and eclectic draft beers. However nothing stands out quite like its staple sandwich — their very own Kingsley Burger. Made with local beef and pork from Truelove Farm in Morris, CT, it’s coated with sharp cheddar, bacon jam, (yes, bacon jam) and a fried egg that will leave you buoyant, plus a side of fresh-cut fries, $16. If you’re looking for a more traditional burger, Kingsley Tavern offers a Hurlburt Farm grassfed burger with fries, starting at $10.50; add cheese $1, add bacon $2, and a fried egg, $2. —Arvolyn Hill
14 N Main Street, Kent
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Sweets Too Good To Be Gluten Free? Not Anymore.
Madeleine’s gluten-free Berkshire Crunchie cookies, strawberry shortcake cupcakes, and lemon chiffon mini muffins.
By Amy Krzanik
You’ve seen it everywhere lately – “gluten free” – and either grabbed five of the item or rolled your eyes. I admit, I have to laugh at some of the products that advertise themselves as safe for my specific dietary restriction. Yogurt? Salad? Of course these items don’t have gluten in them, but thanks for the reassurance, I guess. On the other hand, I’ve been searching high and low for baked goods like breads and desserts that I can safely eat. When I do find them at stores, they’re mostly dry and tasteless, and I sigh and dream of days past when I could eat a cookie or slice of pie without dissecting its ingredients.
But it looks like those days are over, and I have local bakers to thank for ending my fruitless (and flour-less) search for dessert.
Kelly Spencer started Rhinecliff’s Savvy Girl Baking Company two-and-a-half years ago after a 25-year career in writing and editing, and has since seen her business grow by literal word of mouth. At her “savvy” college-aged daughter’s urging, Spencer was inspired to restart the brownie business she’d once run in her twenties. A friend in the foodie scene urged her to put a gluten-free spin on her secret, made-from-scratch recipe this time around. He actually did more than urge Spencer… he dared her. “He said ‘gluten-free isn’t a fad and it’s not going away,’” she says. Always up for a challenge, Spencer took a month to perfect her recipe, working nonstop until she created a brownie that no one could tell was made with brown rice flour instead of wheat flour.
“The goal is to get my brownie into somebody’s mouth first and then tell them it’s gluten-free. By that time, they can’t believe it and they don’t miss the gluten.” Her signature brownie – moist, chock-full of chocolate chips and the winner of the “Best Dessert” award at 2013’s Taste of Rhinebeck – will have competition next month when she rolls out two new products – a chocolate chip blondie and a chocolate ginger brownie. Even though her brownies are celiac-safe, Spencer stresses that those afraid her sweet treat will be too “healthy” need not worry. “This is not health food,” she says. “This is definitely a dessert because everyone should be able to treat themselves.”
Madeleine’s Patisserie & Cafe, which opened on Pittsfield’s North Street in October of last year, is a bakery and cafe owned by 26-year-old Ashley Summers. The Lanesboro native left high school early to attend the New England Culinary Institute in Montpelier, VT, followed by stints around the world, most recently working at NYC’s famous Tavern on the Green and serving as executive pastry chef for Richard Sandoval Restaurants. When she became pregnant with her daughter Madeleine, Summers realized that, as a single mom, continuing to work 80-hour weeks would mean leaving her child to be looked after by strangers most of the time.
Ashley Summers in the cafe.
She moved back to Berkshire County to be around family and, after searching but not finding work in the area, struck out on her own.
Madeleine’s offers the standard French cafe fare – buttery croissants, cookies, quiches and breakfast and lunch sandwiches – but also carries a gluten-free bread option and at least four pastries a day that are wheat free. In addition, Summers takes special orders for sugar-free and lactose-free baked goods. “The community uses us as a resource now,” she says. “People come in and say ‘We can’t find this anywhere’ or ‘Can you make this?’ I also think about what my dad would want.” Summers’ parents are both gluten free and are the inspiration behind many of her special recipes.
The cafe also has teamed up with local purveyors David’s Biscotti of Pittsfield and No. Six Depot Roastery out of West Stockbridge to offer their products in the cafe.
More Gluten-Free-Friendly Spots In The RI Region:
407 Warren St., Hudson, NY
Their “Uncle Barry’s Gourmet Waffle,” shown right, is made with gluten free flours, walnuts and coconut.
CrossRoads Food Shop
2642 Rt. 23, Hillsdale, NY
For the Love of Pie
786 State Rt. 20, New Lebanon, NY
Our Daily Bread
54 Main St., Chatham, NY
Irving Farm Coffee House
44 Main St., Millerton, NY
Rusty’s Farm Fresh Eatery
5 Old Farm Rd., Red Hook, NY
Gluten-free raspberry cupcake (shown left) from Rusty’s.
Ruth’s Brownie Kitchen
2517 Rt. 44, Salt Point, NY
107 Main St., Poughkeepsie, NY
Great Barrington & Pittsfield, MA and Hudson, NY
The Gluten Free Gourmet Cafe
284 Main St. #9, Great Barrington, MA
Great Barrington & Lenox, MA
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The Shelter: Underground Wine Bar An Above-Average Hideout
By Andrea Pyros
Stroll Rhinebeck’s crowded E. Market Street on a sunny weekend afternoon and you might walk right past The Shelter, but come nighttime, after the day crowd has packed it in, Rhinebeck’s newest – and coolest – bar-cum-restaurant comes to life. Billing itself as “an underground wine bar,” The Shelter lies subterranean, its entrance tucked in the old Rhinebeck Hardware Company building between FACE Stockholm and Bumble & Hive. Plenty of people are finding it, though; since its opening in December, it’s stayed busy serving up tapas-style plates and excellent drinks to patrons enjoying the elegant, unpretentious vibe.
It’s no surprise that The Shelter already has a fan base. It’s run by Wesley and Bryn Dier, the husband-and-wife team behind The Local, another popular Rhinebeck spot that shares The Shelter’s neighborhood feel and its attention to first-rate cooking and hospitality. The Diers both grew up in Rhinebeck, and after Wesley graduated from the CIA, they opened their first restaurant, the now-shuttered 40 West, back in 1999 and then The Local in 2010.
“We’ve been in the public eye for the last 15 years, and we think we’ve helped develop the culinary landscape of Rhinebeck and the Hudson Valley,” Wesley says. They’d discussed branching out further, and when a space came up for rent a block down the street from The Local, the Diers jumped on it. “We liked the brick interior and speakeasy vibe and we really wanted to grab it before someone else did something cool down there,” he says.
Walking down the stairs, you’re hit by the aroma of the freshly popped popcorn, which is served warm with a savory, salty seasoning. Sit at the bar for conversation with the knowledgeable and attentive staff, or seat yourself on a couch or one of the larger high-top tables dotted around the room. Order one of their “Lucky 13” cocktails, like the Savage Detective made with Del Maguey ‘Vida’ Mezcal, lemon, absinthe and grapefruit bitters ($12). Although The Local has an entirely domestic wine menu, here the Diers have opted for Spanish wines to complement their menu. Using it as an opportunity to educate themselves on an entirely different region, they’ve uncovered a noteworthy range of affordable choices, including a 2012 Cinco Josés Garnacha ($8 glass) and a 2012 Lima Vinho Verde ($8 glass).
The specials menu on a recent evening included a Camembert cheese from the Old Chatham Sheepherding Company, rich and buttery, served with truffle honey and perfectly ripened D’anjou pear slices ($8). Some nights might offer individual mini paellas [shown below] or roasted peppers. From the regular menu, a small plate of marinated shitake mushrooms in a 20-year aged sherry vinaigrette with shallot crispies ($6) packed a tart bite and served as a good pairing to The Shelter’s aged meats, clearly important enough on the menu to warrant a meat slicer in the middle of the workspace. There’s a house-made chorizo and a paprika-cured pork tenderloin (each $10). Other dishes elevate the familiar, like deviled eggs made more devilish with wasabi tobikko—flying fish roe—and sriracha ($6). The lovely house-churned saffron ice cream ($6) was creamy and sweet and the prickly pear sorbet ($6) was refreshing after the evening’s rich offerings (the accompanying sweetened condensed milk gelée, thick and lacking in flavor, was the rare misstep in otherwise standout cuisine).
Befitting a neighborhood hangout, weekly promos include $3 drafts on Wednesdays before 8, “Sheltered Sangria” ($8 glass; $18 carafe) on Fridays, $1 Blue Point oysters on Saturdays, and live music during the weekends and some weeknights.
“This is an adult place to have a cocktail,” says Wesley, “Some of the places [in the area] are a bit younger and not as swanky. We consider it like we’re throwing a party every night. We get nervous and excited to show you a good time and do what we’re proud of.”
47 East Market St., Suite #2
Tuesday—Thursday: 5 p.m. - midnight
Friday & Saturday: 5 p.m. - 2 a.m.
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Review: Le Gamin Country, A Parisian Post In Hudson
By David McDonald
In his groundbreaking book Kitchen Confidential, Anthony Bourdain talked about the hardest challenge for a restaurant: maintaining consistency. Sure, many restaurants can come up with a transcendent meal every now and then. But doing it consistently? That’s an entirely different challenge.
It’s a challenge more than ably met by Le Gamin Country on Warren Street in Hudson. I’ve been eating there for four or five years, and it suddenly dawned on me that I’d simply never had a dud meal there. And heaven knows, in all of those years, I’ve tried just about everything on their menu, from omelets to salads to soups. It’s always good, often transcendent, and never less than highly professional.
Le Gamin Country is the brainchild of husband and wife team Patrick and Astrid Jehanno. Patrick was executive chef/partner of the original Le Gamin series of restaurants in New York City, and both he and Astrid are long-time veterans of the business. But this restaurant has a personality very different from the ones in the city, and it all starts with the food.
Food photos courtesy Natasha Kox.
First, though, a caveat: if you’re like many of Le Gamin’s regulars, you may fixate on the first dish you try, ordering it over and over, simply because it’s the best of its kind you’ve ever had.
With me, it started with the classic Quiche Lorraine, its compelling mix of air, cheese, and smokiness from the fresh, thick-cut bacon. It took me about six months before I tried something else. Then I got on the French Onion Soup ($7.50) groove. It’s so densely loaded with fresh chicken stock, onions, gruyere cheese and French bread that it makes other restaurants’ versions seem like watery knockoffs. As an avid soup maker, I’ve tried many times to recreate Le Gamin’s deliciously satisfying recipe. In ten tries, I think I may have succeeded once.
The salads are impeccably fresh (particularly recommended: La Salade Nicoise, a French classic; and Endives Au Roquefort Et Pommes Vinaigrette La Lavande , endive salad with Roquefort cheese, apples, and walnuts; both $12.50 and enough to feed two). The crepes, either sweet or savory (try the salmon fumée crepe, shown right), are always flawlessly made ($5 for simple, up to $8.75). There’s a cliché in the food business about the French and their eggs, but every time I go to Le Gamin, I marvel at the perfection of Patrick’s technique with des oeufs.
There’s usually one dish on their daily menu that could classify as a dinner meal, which might include merguez or mussels. Also very European: their collection of old French advertising signs and their decidedly pet-friendly policy at the tables out front, where well-behaved pets are treated as welcome customers.
The single most unique element of Le Gamin Country has very much to do with the personalities of Patrick and Astrid, who run the restaurant in what I imagine to be a very old-school French manner. To those who are her friends, Astrid is the definition of the archetypal French restaurant owner, treating you like royalty, blessing you by her mere presence at your table. A withering glance of disapproval from Astrid is enough to spur the parents of the occasional unruly child to action and silence quickly any overly demanding customer. She certainly goes to bat for her people and is a beloved presence among regular customers in Hudson.
Hudson may be growing in leaps and bounds, but on its main drag, there is always a perpetual reminder of Paris.
Le Gamin Country
609 Warren Street, between 6th & 7th Streets
Open every day except Wednesday.
Le Gamin is a cash-only establishment.
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A Farm Of Your Own: Membership Has Its Privileges At A CSA
Eating locally grown food is valuable on so many levels—ecologically, economically, nutritionally, sociologically, spiritually—that it’s no wonder many CSA (Community Supported Agriculture) farms in our region report that new and returning members are signing up earlier every year and that waiting lists to join are inevitable. Now’s the time to lock in the one that suits your needs.
Convenience is key when picking a farm, because you want make sure you can make your weekly pick-up. Many of the farms offer more than one pick-up location, some deliver, and a handful even have pick-up locations in NYC and Brooklyn.
All CSAs offer vegetables, of course, and some offer fruits, flowers, local eggs, meats, cheeses and even herbal remedies. If you’re a serious cook or have a large family, you might consider joining two different CSAs to fully experience the bounty of summer in the Rural Intelligence region. For a list of even more CSAs, farms and restaurants in our area and southern Vermont, see the Berkshire Grown website.
Farm Girl Farm
Pumpkin Hollow Road
North Egremont, MA
Full share (June—October): $630.00; summer share (June—September): $450.00
Indian Line Farm
7 Jug End Road
South Egremont, MA
Regular share (early June—early November): $625.00; summer share (early June—Labor Day): $475.00; working share: $400.00; supersize flower share: $75.00 (with vegetable share) & $125.00 (w/o vegetable share); fruit share: $200.00
Three Maples Market Garden
98 State Line Road
West Stockbridge, MA
Share (June—December, 18 weeks): $225; family share (same time frame): $375
(Three Maples produce shown)
Wolfe Spring Farm
946 Hewins Street
Share (May 1 through November 1): $600
Woven Roots Farm
12 McCarty Road
Share (June 7 through November 1): $600
The Farm at Miller’s Crossing
81 Roxbury Road
Regular share: $535; single share: $285; beef share: $240 (prices if paying by cash or check)
Good Fight Herb Co.
Herb share (four times a year, once each season): $330, plus a $100 deposit due by April 16. In total, the share includes 20 herbal products, four self-care surprises, four informational booklets, one consultation, one customized formula, and up to three plant walks.
Hawthorne Valley Farm
327 Route 21C
Ghent (Harlemville), NY
Full vegetable share: $525; half vegetable share: $280; fruit share: $205
Little Seed Gardens
P.O. Box 195
Share: $475; Early Bird Special for returning members with payments postmarked by March 15: $450
(Little Seeds beets shown above)
Red Oak Farm
1921 Route 9
25-week share (choose every week from a variety of vegetables, fruit, eggs, teas and herbs): $495
2501 Route 9H
P.O. Box 338
23 weeks of vegetables: $558; 20 weeks of fruit: $80; winter share: $125; beef, lamb, pork, and chicken shares also available: $130—$145
(Roxbury Farm tomatoes shown)
Trusted Roots Farm
402 County Route 34
East Chatham, NY
Full vegetable share: $550; working vegetable share: $450; small vegetable share: $350; half- and full-dozen egg shares also available.
9 Fishkill Farm Road
Hopewell Junction, NY
Standard share (25 weeks): $950; small share (25 weeks): $550; egg share (25 weeks): $138; milk shares and meat shares also available.
Hearty Roots Farm
1830 Route 9
Weekly share (22 weeks): $595 ($600 if you join after March 15)
Every-other-week share (11 weeks): $320 ($325 if you join after March 15)
P.O. Box 376
Red Hook (Tivoli), NY
Vegetable share (22 weeks beginning June 4): $550; fruit share (17 weeks beginning June 4): $290; egg shares and pork shares also available.
Sisters Hill Farm
127 Sisters Hill Road
PO Box 22
Weekly share: $650 to $750 (depending on the amount of your initial deposit); every-other-week share: $350 to $400 (depending on deposit)
Sol Flower Farm & CSA
41 Kaye Road
Full share (June—November): $650; summer share (June—September): $500; working share (June—November): $425; flower share (late June—mid-September): $200; cheese shares also available.
(Sol Flower farmer and produce shown above)
Anderson Acres Farm
1 Anderson Acres
Produce-only share: $680; with eggs: $779
(Anderson Acres Farm shown)
Chubby Bunny Farm
Undermountain & Cobble Roads
Falls Village, CT
Local farm share: $575; box delivery: $675; White Plains box: $665; Whippoorwill Farm (Salisbury) box: $575
142 Town Street
West Cornwall, CT 06796
Half share: $225; full share:$325; super full share (everything in the full share, plus farm specials like flowers and maple syrup): $400
4 East Street
Full share: $650; half share: $450
226 Sharon Turnpike
Full share (includes veggie, fruit & bakery from June—October): $610; half share: $375; half share bakery only: $380