Rising in Millerton: A Farm-to-Table Restaurant (and a Soufflé)
This is a story about a soufflé. But as with any soufflé, you know it comes at the end and you will have to wait for it.
Less than two short years ago, Rural Intelligence heralded the arrival of Chef Tim Cocheo’s No. 9 restaurant in the village of Millerton. Now on the eve of the No. 9’s second anniversary, RI returned to find a thriving and innovative farm-to-table restaurant that has become the talk of the region.
Chef and co-owner Tim Cocheo and his wife Taryn opened No. 9 in Millerton after gaining experience with their acclaimed Bottle Tree restaurant in Ancram, NY. Chef Cocheo’s considerable experience includes training at the legendary French Culinary Institute, and in the kitchens of famed New York City restaurants including Wallse and La Caravalle. No. 9 opened to rave reviews in 2009, and quickly found an enthusiastic audience not only in Millerton but throughout the Hudson Valley. The restaurant brought “fine dining to a new level in Millerton,” Joan Osofsky, owner of the Hammertown Barn stores, told Rural Intelligence. “It really is a farm-to-table deal with a very experienced chef.”
The Cocheos have taken full advantage of the agricultural riches which surround rural Millerton, sourcing their meats from nearby Herondale Farm, vegetables from Sol Flower Farm, and countless small growers in the nearby countryside. The result is an inventive, constantly changing menu stocked with fresh-from-the-farm local ingredients. Another result in that to get a seat, diners find they need to book a table well ahead, especially in summer.
Now, about that soufflé. It may well be that Chef Cocheo is the only chef in Dutchess County who goes the distance to offer the famously difficult, old world dessert classic . Depending on when you visit (and what’s in season) it may be a strawberry soufflé. Or a raspberry rhubarb. Or corn. Or pumpkin. But don’t take our word for it, watch the video. The soufflé is at the end. As it must be.
It’s worth the wait.