Bridges to Spring: Winter Farmers’ Markets, a Growing Trend

Rural Intelligence Food By Kathryn Matthews

In the wake of recent snow storms, memories of leafy green local produce and last fall’s bountiful harvest have all but faded for many of us. But we don’t necessarily have to resign ourselves to shrink-wrapped meat and produce shipped from halfway around the world between now and May.

Indoor winter farmers’ markets that extend the local food-shopping season are a growing trend, at least in Dutchess County.

The Red Hook winter market, now in its third season, is held at the historic Elmendorph Inn, (above and just below), in the center of the village. In addition to the opportunity to buy from Red Hook-based growers and producers, such as Migliorelli Farm, Hearty Roots, Northwind Farms and Awesome Farm, you can nibble—on-site or later at home—prepared foods from Julia & Isabella and Gigi Market, and baked treats from Tivoli Bread & Baking Company. You can also pick up a bottle of wine from Tousey winery, or dried bouquets of statice and larkspur from Pistil Farms.

Rural Intelligence Food It was due to inclement weather— the formidable ice storm of December 2008—that the very first Red Hook winter market got off to an ominous start. Happily, market manager and former Red Hook councilman Robert McKeon learned that not even an ice storm could keep people away. “Half the town was without power, but we were packed!” he recalls, adding “And our winter market has been successful ever since.”

It’s a win-win situation for local farmers who make a little extra cash, and for customers who seek fresh, local food.

McKeon strives to keep the market close-to-home: Red Hook-based growers and producers who want to participate as vendors get first consideration. “If there’s a gap somewhere, we’ll increase our radius for `local’,” he says.

The charm of the restored inn adds to the ambiance. Once slated for demolition, The Elmendorph—now listed on the National Register of Historic Places—resumes its role as a community gathering spot. A farmhouse built circa 1760, the Elemendorph later became a tavern; it was also the site of the first Dutchess and Columbia County Agricultural fair in 1817.

On a recent Saturday, a steady stream of customers poured through the door. Go early if you want produce. “The biggest draws are local vegetables, which always sell quickly, then local meat products and fruit,” said McKeon.

Rural Intelligence Food The 2010/2011 season is the first year for the Rhinebeck winter market, held inside the village Town Hall. “We have about half of the vendors who participate in our summer market,” says market manager Cheryl Paff. Wander this light-filled, high ceiling space, and you’ll find a selection of local and regional products, from Wiltbank Farm mushrooms, shoots and sprouts, and Wild Hive Farm organic whole grains, bread and pastas, to Quattro Farm smoked poultry (pheasant, turkey and chicken), pheasant sausage, and duck eggs, and Little Seed Garden greenhouse-grown lettuce. “With more farmers turning to greenhouses, we can enjoy seeing some bright green stuff—even in the dead of winter,” says Paff.

Amenia is another newbie to the farmers’ market circuit—but no less dedicated. Having succeeded with their first outdoor farmers’ market last summer, Amenia experimenting with a winter market at the Town Hall every second Saturday, monthly, through April. Local foods on offer include naturally-raised, milk-fed veal from Cream Hill Veal in West Cornwall, Connecticut; artisanal cheeses from Amazing Real Live Food Company in Pine Plains; and whole-grain breads from Berkshire Mountain Bakery, to name a few.

Rural Intelligence Food In its seventh year, the Beacon winter market is the oldest winter market in Dutchess County. “It’s a unique venue,” says market manager Simone Williams. Open every Sunday year-round, it is held in winter at singer Pete Seeger’s riverside sloop clubhouse, next to the new ferry dock. In warm weather, it moves outdoors to the Metro North train station parking lot. The clubhouse, a stone structure, alongside the river, has two fireplaces and space to accommodate 12 vendors. What you’ll find: grass-fed beef and other all-natural meats from Walnut Grove Farm in Orange County; hand-made ravioli from Bongo and Capacci based in Watertown, Connecticut; milk and cheese from Ronnybrook Farm; and spinach and mesclun from Common Grounds, a CSA in the City of Beacon. It’s been a rewarding experience for Williams, a former vendor, who started the original market to sell local cheeses. Now, with David Meltzer, her business partner, she sells artisanal breads from their bakery, All You Knead. “I never thought a winter market would make it here. It’s been rewarding to see its growth and more people, who value and appreciate fresh food, discovering us.”

Peripatetic Kenny Migliorelli of Migliorelli Farm in Red Hook participates in most Dutchess County winter markets. His minimally sprayed produce, always in demand, can be found on stands at 15 winter markets throughout the New York region, from New York City and Westchester, to the Hudson Valley and Schenectady. In addition to root vegetables, such as black radishes, rutabagas and turnips, he also sells apples, pears and cider. How fresh is fresh? Even after the post-Christmas blizzard, Migliorelli still picked carrots and parsnips straight from his fields from underneath snow-covered stra . About his farm’s prolific regional presence, Migliorelli says simply, “It helps with the cash flow.”

Rural Intelligence Food Dutchess County Locations

The Millerton Farmers Market is held indoors at Gilmor Glass, where you can watch an artist blow exquisite glass while shopping for root vegetables, greenhouse greens, and artisanal goods.
2 Main Street, Millerton
January 15, February 19, March 13, April 23; 10 a.m. - 2 p.m.

Red Hook Winter Market
Elmendorph Inn
North Broadway (Route 9)
Village of Red Hook
January 18 & 22; February 5 & 19; March 5 & 19; April 2 & 16; 10 a.m. - 2 p.m.

Rhinebeck Winter Market
Rhinebeck Town Hall
80 E. Market Street at Center Street
Village of Rhinebeck
January 16 & 30; February 13 & 27; March 13 & 27; April 10 & 24; 10 a.m. - 2 p.m.

Amenia Winter Market
Amenia Town Hall, Rte. 22
Monthly, through April
January 15, February 12; March 12; April 9; 10 a.m. - 2 p.m.

Beacon Winter Farmers’ Market
Pete Seeger’s Sloop Clubhouse on the waterfront, adjacent to the Metro North train station
Sundays 10 a.m. - 4 p.m.

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