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Restaurants
The restaurant descriptions that follow reflect the opinions of the editors of Rural Intelligence.
They are editorial content, not paid advertisements, and are organized by county.
Pan Zur in Tivoli offers tapas and then some.
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Bread Alone in Rhinebeck specializes in breakfasts and lunches on artisanal bread. |
Bangall Whaling Company is an archetypal neighborhood saloon. |
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Fiori - Great Barrington, Massachusetts
When we heard that the Alexander and Matthew Feldman who grew up in the Berkshires—self described “BSO brats” whose father teaches music at Williams College and directs the Berkshire Symphony—had moved home from Colorado to open a high end Italian restaurant called Fiori in the long empty Pearl’s space at the top of Railroad Street, we thought, Are they meshuga? Pearl’s had always seemed too fancy, too urban, too-too for Great Barrington, and we feared that the Feldman brothers might be suffering from youthful hubris and delusions of grandeur. But based on our first visit, these young men are going to rock the Berkshires.
Although they have made very few changes to the sleek and clubby Pearl’s space, their Fiori has a different vibe that seems warmer, more soothing, more hospitable. As we studied the menu, one dish jumped out at us so we ordered it immediately (in part, because the menu noted that it would take 30 minutes to prepare): Risotto al Vino Rosso ($17/$26) that’s described as “Aged Carnaroli, red wine, liver pate, balsamico, Parmigiano.” The dish is a revelation: a cool, creamy ball of pate sitting in a puddle of piquant rice, an audacious contrast of flavors and textures that only a very sensitive chef could pull off. Now we could relax because clearly it was going to be a delicious night. The Anitpasto Misto for two ($18) is a Saveur magazine still life (easily shared by 3 or 4) with silky salumi, sharp and mellow cheeses, pickled fennel, and fresh, bright green olives. Pastas can be ordered as either first or main courses, and the three we tried were distinctly delicious: Agnolotti del Plin ($18/$27) was a plate of tiny plump pastas stuffed with braised beef and cabbage; Tajarin ($15/$23) combined strings of pasta with lentil sprouts, rosemary, tomato and Parmigiano; Lasagne Verdi alla Bolognese ($16/$24) was a deconstructed version made with sheets of nettle pasta and a ragout of local pork and grass-fed beef. The wood-grilled hanger steak ($23) is offered with potatoes or salad, and we had it over a bed arugula with a vibrant salsa verde. Served unimaginably rare, it was absolutely delectable as was the huge portion of Pollo “al Mattone” ($24), a half-chicken cooked under a brick and accompanied by a savory bread pudding.
Don’t try to show up at Fiori without a reservation. The brothers are purposefully not filling every table in the early weeks so they have time to work out kinks in service and prepare for a grand opening in April. (And be warned that the cocktails can be pricey.) But if you are hungry for an exhilarating meal, make a reservation ASAP before the crowds descend. —Dan Shaw
47 Railroad Street; 413.528.0351
Monday -Wednesday: 5:30 - 9 p.m.
Thursday- Saturday 5 p.m.- 12 midnight
Saturday and Sunday brunch 11 a.m.-2:30
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