Restaurants
The restaurant descriptions that follow reflect the opinions of the editors of Rural Intelligence.
They are editorial content, not paid advertisements, and are organized by county.
Flatiron in Red Hook keeps locals coming back again and again. |
Bread Alone in Rhinebeck specializes in breakfasts and lunches on artisanal bread. |
Bangall Whaling Company is an archetypal neighborhood saloon. |
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No. 9 - Millerton, New York
Who would dare open a white tablecloth restaurant in this economy? A young couple like chef Tim Cocheo, 31, and his wife, Taryn, 30, who were half the team behind the now-shuttered Bottle Tree Grocery in Ancram, which had a cult-like following for its $49 prix fixe dinners on Friday and Saturday nights and its decadent Sunday brunch. Now, the Cocheos have opened No. 9 Restaurant and given the dining room at Millerton’s Simmon’s Way Village Inn a Cinderella makeover. From the street (the address is Main Street, but the entrance is on Century Boulevard), the restaurant gives off a golden glow that fills you with optimism. When you walk in the door, you are not disappointed: the dining room feels like a warm embrace—mustard walls with wainscoting painted a Provençal green, brass sconces with silk shades that cast a flattering light, a large, homey patterned carpet (donated by Joan Osofsky of Hammertown Barn), and a state-of-the-art sound system playing the kind of music that makes you feel like you’re at a really swell dinner party. And in a way you are: Cocheo—who cooked in New York at the late, great La Caravelle and Wallse and then at Wheatleigh in Lenox, MA, before moving to the Bottle Tree—is a serious chef. He brings a haute cuisine mindset to country cooking, and he’s put together a small menu with great variety. The first courses include a delicate yellowtail crudo with lemon confit, sea beans, jicama and Tuscan olive oil ($14), an earthy porcini mushroom risotto with truffle foam that’s not the least bit fussy ($13), and Sky Farm field greens with Coach Farm goat cheese ($8). The entrees range from a Herondale Farm chicken ballotine stuffed with wild mushrooms ($23) and grilled Scottish salmon with Champagne sauce ($23) to Weinerschnitzel with lingonberries and potato-cucumber salad ($22) to the No. 9 Herondale beef burger that’s served with French fries ($12). The desserts include a rich, deconstructed ice cream “sandwich” and a light pumpkin souffle served with crème anglaise. This is a restaurant where you want to linger over a second cup of coffee or a third glass of wine, because being at No. 9 gives you that elusive feeling that all’s right with the world.
53 Main Street, Millerton; 518.592.1299
Dinner: Tuesday - Saturday 5:30 - 10
Brunch: Sunday 10 a.m. - 2 p.m.
Closed: Monday
