Restaurants
The restaurant descriptions that follow reflect the opinions of the editors of Rural Intelligence.
They are editorial content, not paid advertisements, and are organized by county.
Flatiron in Red Hook keeps locals coming back again and again. |
Bread Alone in Rhinebeck specializes in breakfasts and lunches on artisanal bread. |
Bangall Whaling Company is an archetypal neighborhood saloon. |
[See more Restaurants, Listed by County]
Red Devon - Bangall, New York
In a region where every other restaurant is off the beaten path, Red Devon in the hamlet of Bangall (in the town of Stanford, between Millbrook and Pine Plains) can be challenging to get to if you are not familiar with these back roads. But it is worth going out of your way because there is a chef in the kitchen who knows how to take first rate local ingredients and optimize their essential flavors. There’s nothing more commmonplace than a roasted-beet-and-goat-cheese salad, but Red Devon’s version is exemplary; each element works to support the other like musicians in really good band. A special appetizer of crispy pork belly ($15) came with green lentils, pickled ramps and fresh chervil; the crisp pork was countreintuitively melt-in-your mouth crisp. It’s clear that the chef has an affinity for pork; the seared pork “porterhouse” au poivre ($27) was another winner and so were its accompaniments—thick steak fries that had an earthy potatoness and wilted escarole in hot bacon dressing. And while having a full dinner can be expensive, we were handed a bar menu in the handsome main dining room that features homemade hot dogs ($5.99 with sauerkraut and $6.99 with chile and cheese) and southern fried chicken ($18) But it’s not just the food that is spot on: the young, attractive servers have been well-trained and they are unfailingly polite. The dining room is at once airy and cozy—a place you want to linger with a brandy or second cup of coffee. Red Devon is definitely worth a detour.
108 Hunns Lake Road; 845.868.3175
Dinner: Thursday - Saturday 6 - 9:30 p.m.
Sunday brunch: noon - 3 p.m
Sunday dinner: 5:30 - 8:30 p.m.
Closed Tuesday & Wednesday
