The restaurant descriptions that follow reflect the opinions of the editors of Rural Intelligence.
They are editorial content, not paid advertisements, and are organized by county.
Prairie Whale, in Great Barrington, for a new farm-to-table hangout.
|Terrrapin, in Rhinebeck, offers astonishing variety and value in a glittering setting.||
The Crimson Sparrow, in Hudson, is an exciting place to eat and to be.
The Crimson Sparrow - Hudson, New York
Given that both of The Crimson Sparrow’s owners, John McCarthy and Benjamin Freemole, worked until recently at Wylie Dufresne’s cutting-edge WD-50 in Manhattan, it’s only natural to wonder just how exotic, if not “molecular,” their new Hudson restaurant would be. Fortunately, The Crimson Sparrow immediately distinguishes itself from its pricey nest by offering wines by the glass for a relatively modest $7 - $9. The dinner menu has four sections: Plates, Cheese, Other, and Large Plates. The least expensive dish: an $8 onion-parmesan soup. The most expensive: two Large Plates, one a Mediterranean sea bass with green tomatoes and miso lentils; the other a Wagyu sirloin butt heart with sunchoke, zucchini, and chanterelles, for $29 each. In other words, prices are comparable, if not a shade lower, than other quality restaurants in the region. Like WD-50, the dishes are inventive. An appetizer of octopus with sweet pea risotto, kimchi romesco, and lime is a veritable UN on a plate; the result tastes as inevitable as (though a lot more novel than) tomatoes, basil, and mozzarella. It’s a generous and exotic option for $13. So were the scallops with Old Bay, corn, yukon gold potatoes, and crab, and another “Large Plate” of duck with black garlic, white anchovies deep fried into little salty frizzles, and dirty rice (both $28). The prix-fixe Sunday brunch ($16), in which one can chose four items from a list of 16, has become deservedly popular.
While the kitchen is state-of-the art and the furnishings are mostly modern, the dining rooms show off the site’s 19th century historicity, most notably an enormous brick oven that now serves as one of two more-or-less private rooms. Lighting fixtures throughout are mostly early industrial, as is the chipped pale paint on the main dining room’s brick walls. At no other Hudson restaurant is the tension between the garden, with its thoroughly modern ambiance, and indoor environment, so compelling; it’s an exciting place to eat and to be.— Marilyn Bethany
746 Warren Street, 518.671.6565
Dinner: Wednesday - Saturday 5:30 - 10 p.m
Lunch: Wednesday - Saturday 11:30 a.m. - 2 p.m
Brunch: Sunday 11 a.m. - 3 p.m.