Friday, July 30, 2010

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Walk on Over: The 2nd Annual Hillsdale Historic House Tour

If, like us, you could do with a little less driving in your life, you’ll be happy to know that the second annual Hillsdale Historic House Tour is a pedestrian-friendly event: All of the buildings are on a 1/4 mile stretch of Cold Water Street, which has three of the oldest houses in the hamlet and 16 other buildings that helped win National Historic Register status for the neighborhood. “Cold Water Street is ideal for our historic house tour,  because so many architectural styles from the 1800’s through the early 1900’s are represented on this one short street,” says tour chairman Matthew White. “The exteriors of all the houses have retained their period looks. Some owners have updated the interiors while others have kept or restored original elements.”

For the July 31 house tour, which benefits the Hillsdale Preservation Committee, at least four of the houses will be open to visitors, as will a Queen Anne-style building that has been a law office continuously since it was built in 1892; visitors will see the law library, maps and other records that have stayed with the building each time it has been sold to another lawyer.  In addition, several long time residents of Hillsdale will be on hand to talk about the history of the houses, the street and the town.

Visitors can also tour an 1828 Federal home built onto the front of what is believed to be a late 1700’s farmhouse. The 1855 Greek Revival on the tour appears from the street to be a large single family home with four floor-to-ceiling windows framing a center door with sidelights, but it’s actually a cleverly disguised two family house.  The 1867 Gothic Revival on the tour retains many original features on the outside while the interior has been updated for modern life. A brochure created for the tour will detail all the historic buildings on the street, which include excellent examples of Gothic Revival and Second Empire architecture. At the end of the street, visitors can wander the gardens of what was originally the parsonage of the Presbyterian church that was built in 1858 in the Greek Revival style.

Hillsdale Historic House Tour
Saturday, July 31; 11 a.m. to 3 p.m.
Tickets: $20
Tickets available at B&G Wine & Gourmet and at Passiflora in Hillsdale.
Day-of ticket sales at 57 Cold Water Street.

On the day of the tour select Hillsdale area restaurants, including the Swiss Hutte, Mt. Washington House, Hillsdale Country Diner and Hillsdale House, will offer a discount to patrons showing their Hillsdale Historic House Tour ticket, as will Neumann Fine Art,  B&G Wines and Passiflora.

Also this weekend in Hillsdale:
Laura Pensiero’s book launch;  openings at the Hessel Museum and Paper Trail; tea dances at Wilderstein or galas for Bard Summerscape—are usually the founders of Rural Intelligence.
 
 
Paper Trail
What does it mean that the chicest store in town specializes in greeting cards, notebooks, stationery and wrapping paper? It means that the people of Rhinebeck still send hand-written thank you notes and wrap their own gifts when they go to a birthday party. Expatriate New Yorkers Maureen Missner and Serine Hastings have built a business that is as popular with locals as with weekenders, and they have an intimate relationship with their clientele as they help design wedding invitations and birth announcements.  “You celebrate life’s occasions in the stationery business,” explains the effervescent Missner. The store also sells jewelry, home accessories, all manner of paper goods, and mounts exhibitions by paper artists such as Ramon Lascano and Linda Filley. 6423 Montgomery Street, Rhinebeck; 845.876.8050
 
 
A.L. Stickle
Where do the owners of Paper Trail like to shop? They love Stickle’s variety store, which is the quintessential small town 5 & 10—an indie version of the once ubiquitous Woolworth’s. Like his grandparents before him, Matt Stickle sells all sorts of useful, everyday things in the same manner they’ve been sold for six decades.  “People like that everything here is not packed in plastic and hung on pegboards,” he says. “They like that we display things in open bins and that they can pick up and touch a suede brush or a single pencil.”  They like that almost everything is something that you actually need, whether it is a new harp for a lamp, fishing line, a shower cap, or a skein of yarn. And they like that Stickle’s is the anti-CVS, the anti-Walmart.
13 East Market Street, Rhinebeck; 845.876.3206
 
 
Bard College
There are so many things to love and admire about Bard College: The contemporary Hessel Museum of Art whose current exhibition is At Home/Not At Home: Works from the Collection of Martin and Rebecca Eisenberg; the Frank Gehry-designed Richard B. Fisher Center for the Performing Arts which is currently host to the Summerscape festival or performing arts;  and the Spiegeltent, the alternative cabaret and disco that brings urban nightlife to the bucolic college campus each summer.  With seriousness and savoir faire, Bard consistently produces world-class cultural events.
Annandale-on-Hudson
 
 
Bubby’s Burritos
It’s hard to know whether urban sophisticates who are used to ordering every imaginable type of takeout food at any imaginable time of day or night will appreciate the discrete charms of Bubby’s Burrito cart. But this adorable little trailer serves amazingly authentic burritos and quesadillas in the most unpretentious fashion, which suits locals and weekenders just fine.
Route 199
 
 
 
Hyde Park
Is it Hillary Clinton’s deep identification with Eleanor Roosevelt that brought Chelsea Clinton’s wedding to a town just a few miles north of Val-Kill, the Eleanor Roosevelt National Historic Site?  One could certainly spend more than a day in Hyde Park visiting Springwood, the Franklin D. Roosevelt estate, and the FDR Library, as well as visiting the Vanderbilt Estate and eating at one of the five restaurants at the Culinary Institute of America.
 
 
 
 
Oblong Books & Music
A box from Amazon.com on the front porch is a badge of shame in the Rural Intelligence region where residents revere and support independent bookstores. Rhinebeck has Oblong, which is run by Dick Hermans and his daugher Suzanna—astute booksellers who support local authors with frequent readings and signings. They have an especially rich assortment of books on the Hudson Valley and New York State at the front of their shop in Rhinebeck. They have another well-stocked outpost in Millerton, NY.
Montgomery Row, Rhinebeck; 845.876.0500
 
 
Warren Kitchen & Cutlery
Located outside the village, Warren Cutlery is a destination that attracts professional chefs, serious home cooks, and students from the Culinary Institute of America down the road in Hyde Park. It carries every imaginable baking pan you could ever want as well as every gadget or small appliance you might need. But it’s knives that give Warren’s “The Edge,” as their slogan boasts; they carry over 1,000 different styles. “If we had more space, we’d have more knives,” says Richard Von Husen, who co-owns the store with a partner, Jim Zitz.  What’s more, you can bring them your old dull knives and they will sharpen them on the spot for a very modest fee.
6934 Route 9, Rhinebeck; 845.876.6208
 
 
Hammertown Barn
Nobody understands better how to furnish a country house than Joan Osofsky (photographed with chef Mario Batali), who opened her first store in Pine Plains some twenty years ago. Since then, she has added shops in Great Barrington and Rhinebeck, which carry a mix of slipcovered furniture, lighting, antiques, Dash & Albert rugs along with all sorts of things you need to set the table for everyday or for company. (Chelsea Clinton is reported to have bought some pillows at the store recently.) Like most Rhinebeck merchants, Osofsky is always ready to lend a hand to worthy causes, and she has been especially generous to the Berkshire Taconic Community Foundation, which facilitates philanthropy in Berkshire, Columbia, Dutchess and Litchfield Counties.
6420 Montgomery Row, Rhinebeck; 845.876.1450
 
 
Terrapin
Where’s the after party? It could be at Terrapin, which stays open until 2 a.m. on Fridays and Saturdays, which is outrageous and unheard of in our neck of the woods. The eclectic menu is well-executed so that you can always find something to satisfy your craving such as Thai meaballs in green curry, duck quesadilla, macadamia-nut tempura calamari,  crispy artichokes or a hamburger with a wide range of toppings.
6426 Montgomery Street; 845.876.3330
 
 
 
Rhinebeck Farmers’ Market
Twice voted the best farmers’ market in the Hudson Valley, this Sunday market (10 a.m. - 2 p.m.) is locavore nirvanna, because most of the vendors have farms nearby. Besides a dazzling assortment of fruits and vegetables from venerable farms such as Breezy Hill and Mead Orchards, there’s also cheese (Amazing Real Live Food Co., Nettle Meadow and Old Chatham Sheepherding Company), meat and poultry (Quattro’s Game Farm, Cowberry Crossing Farm)  and prepated foods (Aba’s Falafel and Block Factory Tamales.)
61 East Market Street, Rhinebeck
 
 
Tivoli Mercantile
This Red Hook shop run by stylish local mom Jill Cornillon has a fresh mix of clothes, jewelry and home accessories. It is the exclusive purveyor of Hudson Paint which is the first collection of blackboard paints in a whole range of vibrant colors, which were developed by Cornillon’s husband, Arno Cornillon, an accomplished decorative painter.  This is the archetypal mom-and-pop shop for new ruralists.
5 E. Market Street, Red Hook; 845.758.3229
 
 
 
Mercato
Francesco Buitoni, a scion of the pasta company begun in 1827, and his wife-and-partner, Michele Platt, have turned a typical 19th century Red Hook house into an osteria that is as close to authentic as you can get. The food is so good that famous folk who know Italian food really well (Mario Batalli, Frances Ford Coppola, Mario Cantone) have been spotted dining here cheek by jowl with the locals. The menu changes weekly, highlighting fresh pastas and seasonal, locally grown produce and meats:  Northwind Farms chicken liver bruschetta,with aged balsamic and sage; handmade ravioli filled with Coach Farm ricotta and spinach with brown butter sauce; and whole roasted branzino served with Migliorelli Farm escarole and black beluga lentils. 
61 East Market Street, Red Hook; 845.758.5879
 
 
Montgomery Place
Depending on your orientation, Montgomery Place is an orchard with a wonderful fruit stand or it’s a magnificent historic house. The 380-acre property is an amazingly intact example of Hudson Valley estate life with exquisite gardens and painterly views of the majestic Catskill Mountains across the Hudson River.
Route 9G, Annandale-on-Hudson; 845-758-5461
 
 
 
 
 
Migliorelli Farm Stand
New Yorkers will recognize the name from New York City’s Greenmarkets, and antiques lovers from the corner store on Warren Street in Hudson, NY, but locals shop everyday at the farm stand near the Kingston Rhinecliff Bridge. Since being displaced from their farm in the Bronx in the 1960s when Co-op City was built, the Migliorellis have been sustainably farming in Tivoli, NY, providing home cooks and restaurants with cooking greens, salad greens, root vegetables, corn, tomatoes, garlic, melons, peaches, plums et al. Route 199 and River Road, Rhinebeck
 
 
 
bluecashew Kitchen Pharmacy
With farms and cooking the number one topic of conversation in Rhinebeck, it’s not surprising that the town has more than one stylish place to buy bakeware, cookbooks, appliances, dinnerwear and linens. We’re especially fond of bluecashew because it carries the pottery of our good friend Frances Palmer, which magically makes any flowers or food look more beautiful.
6423 Montgomery Street, Rhinebeck; 845.876.1117
 
 
 
 
Rhinecliff Hotel & Restaurant
With very few exceptions, only the grand private estates have unobstructed riverfront views, which is why the recently restored Rhinecliff is such a treasure. Within walking distance of the Amtrak station, the 200-year-old inn has an expansive patio where you can take in the magnificent sunset views that have inspired generations of landscape painters.
4 Grinnell Street, Rhinecliff; 845.876.0590
 
 
 
 
Center for Performing Arts at Rhinebeck
This is not your typical Rodgers & Hammerstein-oriented community theater. Although it produces classics from time to time, the Center has been on an edgy course lately. It did first rate productions of Rent and Falsettos this winter, and the musical currently on the boards is the campy and erotic Rocky Horror Picture Show. Copyright © Jen Kiaba Photography
661 Route 308, Rhinebeck; 845.876.3080
 
 
 
 
Tivoli
When Rhinebeck begins to feel frenetic, head north ten minutes to the tiny town of Tivoli, which has become a low-key scene on weekends centered around the Madalin Hotel and its airy porch, according to our “Wandering Eye” blogger Carey Maloney. Friday nights get a clubby group of table-hopping, fashionable weekenders.  Saturdays the food-savvy full timers predominate who appreciate that the chef relies on Migliorelli and Montgomery Place (see above) as much as possible for fruits and vegetables.
53 Broadway, Tivoli; 845.757.2100

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Posted by Dan Shaw on 07/22/10 at 05:07 AM • Permalink

The Millbrook Mystique: Inside Fitch’s Corner Horse Trials

Horse shows are a wonderful combination of sport and style, and nowhere are the equestrians more style-conscious than clubby Millbrook, which every year encourages outsiders to attend—for free!— the Fitch’s Corner Hunter Trials Weekend on July 24 & 25. If you admire beautiful, well-groomed, well-trained horses, there will be more than 250 in competition from all over the northeast participating in dressage, cross country jumping through rolling fields, and stadium jumping in an arena. The best in show will receive not only ribbons but also silver trophies from Tiffany & Co.

If you like to people-watch and/or shop, Fitch’s Corner is like no other tent sale in the Rural Intelligence region. Beneath an enormous marquee, 45 vendors will be selling an array of clothing and accessories that range from the practical (Hunter Boot Wellies in jelly bean colors) to the whimsical (big straw hats by Madder Hatters.) In the “Equine Village” section of the tent, riders with deep pockets can order fine French made saddles from Devoucoux and their own custom designed course of jumps from ETB Jumps. If you just happen to like dapper clothing, you will find booths selling Bella Tu’s debut collection of tunics and silk pants for entertaining, Stubbs & Wooten’s fancy footwear suitable for resorts and country clubs, and Robert Redd’s men’s and boys polo shirts in every imaginable color.  And you don’t have to spend a dime to enjoy the vintage and antique cars that will be on display beginning at noon on Sunday.

“It’s the best, old-fashioned summer destination event—beautiful horses in a beautiful setting and great shopping, too, ” says Fernanda Kellogg, who hosts the trials with her husband, Kirk Henckels, on their 150 acre farm. “You can go everywhere on the property except into my closet or under my bed!” It’s one of those events that always attracts The New York Times’ legendary street-fashion-and-party photographer Bill Cunningham. “It’s a community event, not a celebrity event,” says Kellogg, “but Bette Midler will be here because she is part of our community.”

Fitch’s Corner Horse Trials
July 24 & 25; 8 a.m. - 5 p.m.
Intersection of Shunpike and N. Mabbettsville Road, Millbrook, NY
Admission free.

Tickets and reservations required for Spectator Luncheon to benefit the Millbrook Rescue Squad and for the Blue Jeans Ball on Saturday night.

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Posted by Dan Shaw on 07/21/10 at 05:58 AM • Permalink

O Say, Can You See Some Fireworks

Funny how fireworks, invented by the Chinese in the 12th century, still inspire more awe and delight than anything Disney (studio and parks divisions combined) has conjured up so far.  This weekend there will be many displays, the big challenge, apart from nabbing a parking spot with a view (despite extra-high parking charges, sanctioned lots fill up fast), is figuring out which display is what night.  The rockets start their red glare at one locale on Friday the 2nd and go off somewhere in our region every evening through Monday the 5th. 

Berkshire County

Shakespeare & Company holds its seventh annual reading of the Declaration of Independence July 4 at 3 p.m. under the tent at the outdoor Rose Footprint Theatre.  That evening, at Tanglewood, also in Lenox, July 4 marks the midpoint in James Taylor and Carole King’s big weekend.  Following the duo’s pyrotechnics on stage, there will be a fireworks display that will also be visible from many locales in the immediate vicinity.  Olivia’s Overlook on the Richmond Road, an obvious choice, is best approached on foot as that small, free lot fills early. 

Pittsfield honors America’s independence, as always, with its legendary 4th of July Parade, which this year is being held on Monday, July 5. The big news (at least from our perspective) is that Rural Intelligence‘s own Dan Shaw will be joining the roster of distinguished judges.  But by 10 a.m. Monday, when the leader strikes up the band, Pittsfield’s fireworks will have already taken place, the night before, on July 4th, after the Colonials 6:30 p.m. game at Wahconah Park.  Since the fireworks don’t begin until the game is over, it’s impossible to give an exact time, but if the game doesn’t go into extra innings, think 9:30ish.

The annual Independence Day Parade in Williamstown steps off from Southworth Street at 11 a.m. on Saturday the 3rd and culminates with a reading of the Declaration of Independence. That same evening at Joe Wolfe Field in North Adams, following the game (SteepleCats v. Vermont Mountaineers), there will be fireworks at approximately 9:30 p.m.
 
Columbia County

There are a couple of really sweet, old-fashioned, unflashy parades during the day on the 4th—The People’s Parade (think antique cars and kids on bikes) in Kinderhook, and the Old Chatham Parade, whose organizers boast that there are, “no celebrities.” (So if you are a celebrity and plan to attend, wear a disguise.) The culmination of Chatham‘s FamilyFest, on Satuday, July 3rd, will be a fireworks display, scheduled for 9:30 p.m.  Clermont State Historic Site in Germantown, home of a Signer of the Declaration, is splitting it’s popular, history-rich celebration in two.  Their Old-Fashioned Independence Day, complete with costumed Revolutionary War re-enactors and fife-and-drum corps, food and games, will take place on the 4th.  But, as the town of Saugerties, across the river, has scheduled its fireworks for Monday night, Clermont, which has a clear view of the Saugerties skies, will also be open on the evening of Monday the 5th from 8 p.m. - 10 p.m.  Farther north in the county, Lebanon Valley Speedway, in New Lebanon will hold it’s display following the races on Saturday the 3rd. 
 
Dutchess County

Poughkeepsie will hold its fireworks celebration on the 4th at about 9 p.m. People can view it for free at Waryas Park, but the best perch is probably the splendid new Walkway Over the Hudson. Those wishing to view it from on high must buy a special $10 wristband, available at various area stores, in order to gain admittance.  Since, for safety, the number of people allowed on the Walkway must be limited, so are the number of wristbands, which are expected to sell out fast.

The Dutchess County Fairgrounds in Rhinebeck is having fireworks displays on Friday, Saturday and Sunday nights.  The Friday night sky show follows a rodeo, Saturday’s a demolition derby, and on Sunday the first rocket goes off at the culmination of a concert by the Hudson Valley Philharmonic. These are all ticketed events, but, except for Sunday, admission to the grounds is free.  However, as with most fireworks venues, there is a parking charge, so check for details on the fairgrounds’ website (link above). 
 
Litchfield County

Every year Lime Rock Park in the town of Lime Rock in conjunction with the Rotary Club of Salisbury hosts the local fireworks show.  This year the fireworks will be Saturday, July 3, following Lime Rock’s NASCAR Doubleheader weekend (July 2-3).  The cost is $10 per car.  Gates open at 6 p.m. for picnicking; fireworks begin at 9 p.m.  Please leave the dog at home.

New Milford‘s annual Independence weekend carnival, featuring rides, game booths, and food, will take place at Young’s Field beginning on Thursday July 1st and continuing through Saturday, July 3rd, culminating with a free fireworks display on the 3rd, at approximately 9:30 p.m. on Fort Hill Still Meadow (behind Starbucks).

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Posted by Marilyn Bethany on 06/28/10 at 04:40 PM • Permalink

Wrapped! Father & Son Mummy Reunion at Berkshire Museum

“Mummies represent the potential for people to be immortal,” says Dr. Jonathan Elias, an Egyptologist and curator of the new exhibition Wrapped! Search for the Essential Mummy at the Berkshire Musem (June 19 - October 31. ) As he installed the exhibition featuring the museum’s own 2,300-year old mummy known as Pahat (one of hundreds of mummies unearthed in the tombs of Akhmim, Egypt, in the 19th century), Dr. Elias explained that mummies are more than the preserved flesh and bones of ancient Egyptians but also vessels for their souls. “When the Egyptians eviscerated and embalmed the body with resin, they removed all the organs, including the brain, but they left the heart,” says Dr. Elias. “They believed that the heart is the seed of the intellect and that the spirit of the individual is in the heart. That is where immortality lives.” He pauses and then shares some wisdom he’s gleaned from his studies. “That is why we need to be more heart focused and less brain focused,” he says.

Dr. Elias, who runs the Akhmim Mummy Studies Consortium in Harrisburg, PA, has an intimate relationship with mummies, though he has never unwrapped one. “They used to do that in the 19th century—people would have unwrapping parties, and our exhibit documents that phenomenon,” he explains. “But it is the wrong thing to do in every way.” Nevertheless, he has looked inside mummies using non-invasive CT scan technology (right) to find scars and amulets and other signs of life. “Pahat has only left the Berkshire Museum three times since 1903, and that was so he could be scanned at Berkshire Medical Center,” notes Stuart Chase, executive director of the Berkshire Museum. “One of the highlights of the exhibit is that you will be able to view a virtual, 3-D animated fly through of Pahat’s body, unpeeling layers of linen until you get down to the bone.” The exhibit also features some 200 ancient Egyptian artifacts as well as mummified animals.

You will also be able to see Pahat’s long-lost son, Shep-en-Min. “It’s a father and son reunion,” says Dr. Elias, who discovered the mummy known as Shep-en-Min only 75 miles away at the Frances Lehman Loeb Art Center at Vassar College. He believes it is the first such mummy family reunion in North America. To bring the mummies back to life as much as possible, Dr. Elias commissioned forensic artists to produce more than a dozen plaster busts (above) based on CT scans of mummies he has studied over the years. “These are people who knew each other,” says Dr. Elias, who is obviously pleased to be a handmaiden to immortality.  “You will see a community of Egyptians from the same time and place brought together again.”

Wrapped! Search for the Essential Mummy
June 19 - October 31
Berkshire Museum
39 South Street, Pittsfield MA; 413.443.7171

Opening Day Schedule: Saturday June 19
10 a.m. - 5 p.m. Mummy Facts Scavenger Hunt
12 - 3 p.m. Live Camels on the Lawn (weather permitting)
1 -3 p.m. Hieriglyphic crafts and face painting
1:30 p.m. Snake charmer Kevin McCurley shows off cobras and pythons
2:30 - 3:30 p.m. Dr. Elias’s talk on “The Origins of Pahat”
3 - 5 p.m. Egyptian refreshments in the Crane Room

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Posted by Dan Shaw on 06/16/10 at 09:35 AM • Permalink

Upstairs at Olana: Frederic Church Slept Here

During the period (c. 1869) that the great Hudson River School painter Frederic Church was dreaming up his home Olana with the architect Calvert Vaux, Victorian-era domestic architecture was going through it’s most flamboyant and fantastical stage.  Though Church was too artistic and cosmopolitan to follow the lead of rich burghers, he was subject, nonetheless, to the same mysterious forces that shaped popular taste. That year, he and his wife Isabel returned from a trip to Beirut, Jerusalem and Damascus determined to incorporate into their plans for their family’s new home some of the design elements that had dazzled them in the Middle East.  The result is an haute-bohemian fantasy, part folly, part delightful family home, in a style Church described as, “Persian, adapted to the Occidental.”

Nearly a century later, in 1964, when the widow of the Churches youngest son died there, Olana was, thanks to her vigilance, still virtually as it had been when Frederic and Isabel lived there.  The next Church heirs were not nearly so reverential—they opted to auction the furnishings and sell the house.  To prevent this, the Olana Preservation was hastily formed. Even as Sotheby’s tagged the lots, the Preservation (today called the Olana Partnership) arranged to lease the house and its contents for a year, to give themselves time to raise funds.  At the end of the year, having nearly reached their goal, they appealed to the State of New York, which came up with the rest.  With the house and its contents now safe, the Preservation embarked on a and, lengthy restoration, finally opening the main floor rooms for public tours in 1967.     

Last summer, two of the upper floor bedrooms were opened as gallery spaces.  “The furniture that had been in the Best Guest Room is no longer in the Olana collection,” says Evelyn Trebilcock, curator of Olana.  Once that room and its adjacent bedroom had been restored, rather than bring in substitute period furniture that had nothing to do with the Churches or their taste, Trebilcock and her associates used the opportunity to create a small gallery that would permit visitors to see some of the Church paintings and sketches that had been in storage.  The current shows are of oil-on-paper studies Church had done as preparation for larger works, and an exhibition of photographs and art relating to an extended trip to Jamaica the Churches had undertaken after the tragic deaths from diptheria of two of their children. 

This Saturday, June 6, for the first time, the Churches restored second-floor bedroom and dressing room will be added to the tour.  For those of us who have taken the tour of the main floor countless times, it is a dream come true to be allowed to ascent the stairs and enter the inner sanctum. 
   
Alas, sensibly, it is a back staircase one climbs, not the splendid one in the Main Hall, shown above. This is both necessary and wise, as the transition from the spirited public spaces to the relatively calm and spare master bed and dressing rooms might otherwise be too abrupt.  Upstairs there is less of the inspired, Church-designed decorative painting and artful clutter that makes the downstairs so entertaining. “The rooms look spare now because we have not completely furnished them yet,” Trebilcock explains. “We are going to bring down more furniture from storage, and there also will be plenty of ‘artful clutter’ soon.”  Still, the main attractions of these rooms, now and then, are the wallpapers, which have been painstakingly reproduced from scraps found in obscure, protected spots, such as beneath mantels and moldings that were added after the paper was hung.  There is also an interesting “golden oak” chest of drawers that gives further insight into the Churches’ taste. Their choice of this popular genre (not to be confused with the mass-produced next generation that was sold through catalogs such as Sears) indicates that the couple’s inclinations were not so far from those of their fellow mid-to-late 19th-century bourgeois. 
 

 
 
 
 
For their bedroom and the Best Guest Room next door, the Churches chose a wallpaper pattern inspired by French textiles of the period.  The preservationists at Olana relied on Laura McCoy, an expert in historic wallpaper, to draw the full repeat, filling in any missing bits with highly educated guesswork.
 
 
 
 

 
 
 
 
 
In a dressing room adjacent to the master bedroom, built-in drawers are fitted beneath a staircase that leads to the nursery.  The new paper in this room is a leaf pattern handblocked in gold paint onto Japanese kozo (mullberry) paper, just as the original was, using the methods and materials that had been employed in Japan during the mid-18th to mid-19th centuries. This process, called momigami was replicated by Adelphi Paper in Sharon Spring, NY.  Olana’s next wallpaper project is for yet another guest bedroom.
 
 
 
Olana State Historic Site
Route 9G, just south of Route 23
Greenport, between Hudson & Germantown, NY
Guided house tours: Tuesday - Sunday & holiday Mondays, 10 a.m. - 5 p.m.
Reservations recommended; 518.828.0135
 
The Evelyn and Maurice Sharp Gallery
Thursday - Sunday, June 6 - October 31, 11 a.m. - 4 p.m.
 
Free lecture, Olana, Salon for Jamaican Journeyers
.(JavaScript must be enabled to view this email address) deadline Friday, June 4
Sunday, June 6, 2 p.m

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Posted by Marilyn Bethany on 05/31/10 at 03:32 PM • Permalink

Bohemian Rhapsody: At Home with Edna St. Vincent Millay

In her day, the poet Edna St. Vincent Millay was a rock star (although, of course, she predeceased rock-‘n’-roll.)  Rich, famous and influential, she lived for 25 years in grand, back-to-the-land, high-bohemian style with her husband at Steepletop, their estate in Austerlitz, NY, where she died at the age of 58 in 1950.  “She was the highest paid poet of the 20th century,” says Peter Bergman, the executive director of the Edna St. Vincent Millay Society (which is entirely separate from its neighbor the Millay Colony for the Arts.) “At one point, she was getting royalties of $100 a day from her opera The King’s Henchman.” In her New York Times obituary, she was described as “a terse and moving spokesman during the Twenties, the Thirties and the Forties. She was an idol of the younger generation during the glorious early days of Greenwich Village when she wrote, what critics termed a frivolous but widely know poem which ended: My candle burns at both ends, It will not last the night, But ah, my foes, and oh, my friends, It gives a lovely light!”

Since going to work for the Millay Society four years ago, Bergman (who’s also a prolific theatre critic) has methodically begun to restore the gardens along with Millay’s house and her writing cabin. “When she died, her sister Norma moved in and preserved everything,” he says. “She kept her things separate from her sister’s so that someday the house could be a museum and an accurate reflection of how her sister lived.” This summer for the first time, beginning May 28, there will be regularly scheduled by-appointment tours of the house (the upstairs only) given by docents that Bergman is training. They will be able to explain that the hand-stenciled “Silence” sign in Millay’s library (below) is an inside-joke because Millay never let anyone else into her inner sanctum. They will be able to explain that the black-and-white United States map in the sewing room with with red lines details the route of Millay’s cross-country reading tour she took from October 1938 to January 1939. They will be able to explain that the halls are painted blue because blue was her favorite color and the subject of many poems, and that the guns in the foyer were used by her and her husband for hunting game on the property. They will let you inspect her handsomely monogrammed towels (right.) “But they won’t let you look inside her dressers or drawers,” says Bergman. “You have to come back and take the white-glove tour to see that.”

A separate garden tour includes the restored potting shed, the simple cabin where Millay wrote, and the evocatively ramshackle swimming pool. ‘There’s a haunted quality, isn’t there?” says Bergman, as he explains that Millay built a pergola with a bar next to the pool that she hid from the road by planting arborvitae. “This was during prohibition, and she didn’t want people to see anyone drinking. She had very definite rules. You had to be fully dressed at the bar and you had to be completely naked when you swam in the pool.”  He explains that Millay and her husband, Eugen Boissevain, a Dutch coffee importer, lived more-or-less self-sufficiently at Steepletop and did not get electricity until 1948, when Ladies Home Journal (which frequently published her poems) installed a state-of-the-art kitchen for a photo shoot that Millay then refused to do. “They grew their own vegetables and canned them for the winter,” says Bergman. “We found garden poisons like arsenic in Royal Dutch Coffee cans in the potting shed.”

As he unlocks the door to the writing cabin (right) that Millay used year round and heated with a cast iron stove, Bergman explains that one of the society’s goals is to restore Millay’s reputation and an appreciation for her role in American letters. He has put together a photographic exhibit, Where She Lived, that chronicles her glamorous life which makes you think that Katherine Hepburn would have played her in a contemporaneous biopic. “She was the reigning queen of Greenwich Village’s bohemian set until she got married,” he says. “She set the world on its ear with her 1919 anti-war play Aria de Capo and she won the Pulitzer Prize in 1923.”

Millay’s property line abuts West Stockbridge, and one wonders whether she identified with the writers like Edith Wharton and Herman Melville who lived across the border in Massachusetts. Bergman smiles. “She always considered herself a Berkshires artist,” he says. And just when you think that everything at Steepletop is about the past,  Bergman announces that an indie rock band called Ghost Ghost has written a song cycle about the poet’s life called No Clothes on Ragged Island, which they will perform at Steepletop on July 18. Now, that rock-star analogy doesn’t seem so farfetched.

The Edna St. Vincent Millay Society at Steepletop
House Tours by appointment: Fridays - Mondays;  $15 (six-person limit per tour)
Garden Tours by appointment: Fridays - Tuesdays; $12
Where She Lived exhibit: Thursdays - Tuesdays, 11 a.m. - 4 p.m.  $8
All of the above: $25
Poetry Trail: Open daily; free.

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Posted by Dan Shaw on 05/05/10 at 08:36 PM • Permalink

Spring for Art: 50 More Reasons to Visit Millerton

In the past two years, RI has given you a baker’s dozen of good reasons to visit Millerton, NY:

1. Harney Tea Bar After shopping for tea in the tasting room, you can have a civilized lunch at the adjacent tea bar.
2. HunterBee Jonathan Bee and Kent Hunter are clever curators of folk art and flea market finds, and their antiques store has become one of the village’s social hubs (as well as a not-so-secret source for exuberant vintage clothing.)
3. Little Gates & Co. Wine Merchants Andrew Gates and his staff always make you feel like you’re stumbled into a wonderful cocktail party when you’re shopping at their store.
4. Manna Dew This restaurant with live music, outdoor seating, a great burger and folks playing chess at the bar is a great hangout.
5. Motorworks How can you not love a garage that rebuilds vintage sports cars, repairs ten-year-old Subarus, and hosts art exhbitions?
6. Nest With three owners and three overlapping points of view, this home furnishings shop is sure to have something that would perk up your house.
7. Oblong Books & Music Every week, we seem to highlight a reading or signing at Oblong (or its branch in Rhinebeck.) Every day, it offers a broad selection and literate customer service.
8. Parlour At her quirky dress shop, Mimi Harney offers fashionable clothes and shoe that are appropriate for city or country life.
9. No. 9 Restaurant  Since Day One, chef Tim Cocheo (late of the Bottle Tree Grocery) has been wowing locals with sophisticated cooking in a soothing setting.
10. Saperstein’s Selling work boots, jeans, socks and slickers since 1946, Saperstein’s is the store that time (thankfully) forgot.
11. Shandell’s Susan Schneider cannot only make you a custom shade to fit a lamp of any style, she can wire almost any found object and turn it into a lamp as well.
12. Taro’s  This red-sauce pizza-and-pasta joint has enormous portions and a big-hearted staff that encourages you to take home doggie bags.
13. The Moviehouse Besides offering indie flicks on three screens and exhibits by local artists, The Moviehouse is a good neighbor that hosts screenings to benefit all sorts of charities.

In the next year, we’ll no doubt tell you another dozen good reasons to visit Millerton (including Gilmor Glass, Herrington’s, the Rail Trail, and Terni’s), but right now we can give you more than 50 good reason to visit Millertom this weekend when 50 artists will exhibit their work at more than 30 local businesses.

Millerton and neighboring villages are home to many artists and currently there is only one dedicated art gallery in town (Hanback Gallery), which led to Fall for Art in October, which was an overwhelming success despite one of the stormiest nights of the season. “It really brought the artists who live here together,” says Moira Kelly, who lives in Amenia, and will be showing her Byzantine-style paintings of hip-hop heros in the windows of Saperstein’s this weekend. “Now we have a group called the 14th Colony Artists—the tri-state region has been called the 14th colony—that meets once a month to offer support and discuss issues relating to being artists who live in rural communities.” Several members of the group will be showing their work in the vacant David Gavin Salon (near Harney Tea) that they have borrowed for the weekend.

All of the participating businesses will be serving wine and hors d’oeuveres, and since one of the goals of Spring for Art is to generate foot-traffic in stores, there’s an incentive to visit many of them: If you get your Spring for Art Passport (available at Simmon’s Way Inn) stamped by at least eight different participating businesses, you can enter a raffle to win gift baskets from local merchants. “We like to think of Millerton as the town that combines art and business,” says retailer and Spring for Art organizer Jonathan Bee.

Spring for Art
May 1; 5 - 8 p.m.

 

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Posted by Dan Shaw on 04/28/10 at 07:15 AM • Permalink

A General Store at A Crossroads in Warren, CT

“Doesn’t every small country town deserve to have a general store?” says Maureen Jones, who is hosting an open house this weekend at the Warren General Store, which she and her husband, Clifford, opened two months ago. Jones credits her landlord, the legendary retailer Joe Cicio (who once ran the West Coast specialty retailer I. Magnin) for encouraging her to set up shop. “He’s my retail guru,” she says. “And so is my next door neighbor, Richard Lambertson, who runs Privet House and has a new line coming out at Tiffany.”

Situated near a crossroads that’s on the way to and from several picturesque towns and villages—Bantam, Cornwall, Kent, New Preston, Washington Depot—the Warren General Store is trying to be all things to all people. “I really wanted to be green and organic, but that’s not so easy to do,” explains Jones, who owns and operates the Rooster Tail Inn across the street. “We have three types of peanut butter—Skippy, all-natural and organic. Guess which is selling best?”  She is paying attention to how people shop to figure out what to stock and reports, regretfully, that regular milk outsells organic. She makes it clear that most customers are not so eager to buy EcoSense dishwashing liquid or Earth Friendly toilet paper either.

Nevertheless, the ease of being able to pick up some batteries, birthday candles or a roast chicken on the way home from work in a nice environment has created a loyal following.  “People really appreciate the convenience of being able to buy butter, milk and ice cream without having to go to the supermarket,” she says. And for now, there’s no choice of ice cream: the store sells only local SoCo Creamery pints that are hand packed in Great Barrington. This weekend, Jones wants to show off what her kitchen staff can do—including buttermilk blueberry pancakes, pizza, quesadillas, and lobster salad—so there will be tastings all day Saturday and Sunday.  “Running a general store is very rewarding,” she says. “People come in all the time and thank us for opening. It makes us want to try even harder.”

Warren General Store
265 Cornwall Road (Route 45), Warren, CT; 860.868.3337
Monday - Friday 6:30 a.m. - 6 p.m.
Saturday 7 a.m. - 5 p.m.
Sunday 7 a.m. - 3 p.m.

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Posted by Dan Shaw on 03/24/10 at 09:00 PM • Permalink

New Year, New You…(And Some Sweetheart Deals)

Kathryn Matthews is a lifestyles writer based in New York City and Red Hook, Dutchess County.  She frequently writes about travel, health, food and leisure for the New York Times, Town & Country and O Magazine.

On New Year’s Eve, you swore that THIS YEAR WILL BE DIFFERENT.  You’d eat healthier.  Exercise more.  Refresh your look.  Think positively.  Breathe deeply.  Relax.

Unfortunately, one tiny backslide snowballed…….(and we know how THAT story ends!)

Recommit to those resolutions—with your partner—just in time for the upcoming Chinese New Year (The Year of the Tiger), which, in 2010, begins on February 14th, Valentine’s Day.  Who says resolve and romance can’t mix?

Especially when our region’s rich network of spas, wellness and fitness facilities means that there’s no shortage of expert guidance to feeling good or looking good—both inside and out.  Many are offering couples-themed packages through Feb 14th or until end-month, making Valentine’s Day weekend the perfect time to take those first baby steps toward The New and Improved You.
 
Canyon Ranch
Where else can you get a complete physical evaluation, spend 50 minutes with a physician and enjoy five-star hotel accommodations?  At Canyon Ranch’s renowned Integrative Health Center, a roster of board-certified doctors, health specialists and nutritionists work with you in a 100,000-square-foot Spa complex within a restored 1897 marble and brick Bellafontaine mansion, a replica of Louis XVI’s Petit Trianon.  The 120-acre scenic grounds laced with trails are ideal for snow-shoeing or cross country-skiing.

Wednesday, February 10th to Sunday, February 14th; All Day
Looking to make heartfelt changes that benefit you and a loved one?  This week, Canyon Ranch Lenox teaches practical strategies for heart-healthy living with its “Nourishing Your Heart” event.  Resort guests will be privy to the latest heart research findings presented by a team of wellness experts, who will also address common heart-health concerns, as well as various body, mind and spirit approaches to lifelong cardiovascular health.  In addition to nutrition and cardiovascular fitness, classes include meditation instruction; mastering the art of forgiveness; stress reduction through Traditional Chinese Medicine; and biofeedback. 

When it comes to l’affaire du coeur, activities like Partner Yoga or massages a deux encourage couples to get physical.  Or they can book a “Sexual Health” consultation with a certified sex counselor or licensed therapist to address sexual satisfaction and intimacy issues, ranging from post-operative concerns to menopause and inhibitions.

Through March 17th: a 3-night stay in deluxe accommodations starts at $1,930 (per person) for double occupancy and includes all meals, taxes and gratuities.

Canyon Ranch
Lenox, MA; 800.742.9000 or 413.637.4100
 
Cranwell Resort & Spa
Built on the site of what was originally the Berkshire Hunt Club in 1926, the Cranwell Resort, situated on 380 rambling acres, is known for its 18-hole championship golf course.  But golf isn’t the only attraction at this small luxury resort with 114 guest rooms, charmingly appointed among an eclectic ensemble of buildings on the property that include an 1894 Tudor mansion, a late 19th century cottage and carriage house and three townhouses.

Snowshoeing and cross-country skiing are pleasurable ways to explore a snow-blanketed landscape at Cranwell, and 6.25 miles of groomed trails crisscross the property.  If you’d rather cocoon, the 35,000-square-foot Spa, which offers over 50 spa services, has 16 treatment rooms, a full-service salon and a fitness center with certified trainers on hand.  Some treatments are geared specifically toward men (Man’s Facial and Man-icure) and teens (the Cranberry Yuzu Sugar Scrub). And spa-themed packages abound, from day spa specials that include lunch at the cafe, to overnight “Spa Stays”. 

SWEETHEART DEAL:  Though Sunday, February 28th
During the month of February, Cranwell is offering a “Romance & Relaxation” getaway package.  In addition to full use of the spa facility, couples will receive a 50-minute Swedish massage and a complimentary, 30-minute instructional session, where, under the guidance of a massage therapist, couples learn to massage each other. 

Cranwell Resort & Spa
Lenox, MA; 800.272.6935 or 413.637.4364
 
Kripalu Center for Yoga and Health
If you seek spiritual renewal, emotional wellness or creative expression, consider starting your journey at Kripalu, the largest yoga and holistic retreat center in North America.  Founded in 1983 and named after Hindu yoga master Swami Kripalvananda, the original Kripalu Center was a fully functioning ashram (with a spiritual leader and 350 residents) until 1994.  Now an educational and retreat center, perched atop a hill overlooking Lake Mahkeenac and 150 wooded acres, program offerings focus on personal growth—weight loss, fitness, emotional recovery from trauma, thinking “outside the box”, among others—and “Healing Arts”, which emphasize body work and energy work. The good news: you don’t have to be a yogi—or even like yoga—to practice the “yoga of life”, a philosophy and lifestyle that strives for balance and mindfulness in movement and thought—on and off the mat. 

SWEETHEART DEALS:
Friday, February 12th-Monday, February 15 th (3 Nights)
If you’ve been feeling out of sync with your partner or spouse, two Kripalu programs over Valentine’s Day weekend— “Couples Bodywork: Thai for Two” and “Deepening Your Love: A Retreat for Couples”—encourage physical and emotional intimacy.  “Couples Bodywork” is designed to promote relaxation and playfulness through meditation and touch.  “Deepening Your Love” teaches communication skills that help resolve conflict and foster authentic connection.  For details, see Couples Bodywork.

Friday, February 12th-Sunday, February 14th (2 Nights)
Women game to indulge—and celebrate—themselves over Valentine’s Day weekend can follow the lead of henna artist and designer Stephanie Rudloe, who devotes a two-day workshop (exclusively for women) to the ancient art of shringara, an Indian word meaning “the process of adornment”.  Henna and chocolate are her love-inspiring weapons of choice.  (PS: Considered an aphrodisiac, henna, a natural temporary dye, has been used for centuries to decorate the body for beauty, fertility and abundance.)  In “Shringara Sensual Rituals of Beauty” you master henna body art, massage and henna-designed adornments, sampling Vosges chocolates all the while. Total cost:  $429-$960, depending on accommodations.
 
Kripalu Center for Yoga and Health
Stockbridge, MA; 866.200.5203; 413.448.3152
 
SEVEN Salon Spa
On Route 7 (hence, the name “SEVEN”), smack dab in Norman Rockwell country, this cheery yellow Federal-style building with white trim exudes sweet New England charm. Upon entering, however, you are in an airy, loftlike space with nary a Victorian tchotke in sight.  In 2006, co-owners Mark Johnson (creative director) and Maurice Peterson (general manager) converted the 3,000 square foot interior into an open, light-filled day salon with buffed wood floors, recessed lighting, muted colors and minimalist modern décor.  The ground flour divides into hair and nail stations, and the retail shop carries Jane Iredale cosmetics and other select hair and skincare products, including an organic hair care line.  Body treatments and massages take place upstairs, where there are three treatment rooms and two private steam baths.  “Natural” is a recurrent theme here, from incorporating natural building materials, such as local stone and wood, to the “natural and free” styling philosophy of Johnson, whose roster of clients have included supermodels and celebrities.

SWEETHEART DEALS:
Through Sunday, February 14th
Peterson and Johnson suggest the “Duet Massage” ($180, with 15% off through Valentine’s Day), where couples receive two individual 50-minute massages together as well as a complimentary steam bath. 

Through Sunday, February 28th
And, if you discovered SEVEN by reading this article on Rural Intelligence, say so: you’ll receive 15% off when you choose two or more spa services (including facials, massages and / or body treatments).
Seven Salon Spa
Stockbridge, MA; 413.298.0117
 
FACE Stockholm
If you’re ready for a new face—and we mean one that doesn’t involve bruising, hideout recovery time or potentially disastrous consequences—a visit to FACE Stockholm is your ticket.  Founded in Sweden in 1981, FACE is the brainchild of Gun Nowak, who owns and runs the cosmetic company with her daughter Martina Arfwidson.  Nowak’s guiding philosophy adheres to a Swedish beauty ideal: keep makeup simple, clean and natural.  Known for its incredibly diverse range of colors, the brand carries over 200 lip colors and 150-plus eye shadows, along with blushes, foundations, powders and a natural skincare line. 

Overheard on a recent visit to FACE in Rhinebeck:

“Grow out your eyebrows; they’ll better frame and balance your face.”
 
“Crème blush is a must to coax out your cheekbones.”

“Use your fourth finger—it has the most padding—to apply makeup with short, quick strokes.”

That was makeup artist and educator Helen Andersson in action during a private consultation.  After 20 years as a professional makeup artist to famous faces, such as Isabella Rossellini, Heidi Klum and Halle Berry, this native Swede is well-versed in the art of illusion.  And it behooves you to take her advice.  In a short time, Helen’s experienced eye and finesse with a makeup brush transformed less-than-perfect women—from an acne-plagued teenager, to a weathered 50-something—into confident swans, who sailed out the door that day, smiles on their faces.

On offer: a menu of makeup application services (that can also be custom-tailored), including makeup lessons and bridal services.  While both Hudson and Rhinebeck stores carry the full range of FACE Stockholm makeup, skincare and bodycare, the Make Up School is exclusive to the Rhinebeck location.

Through Sunday, February 14th (Valentine’s Day), FACE is donating 5% of all sales to Doctors Without Borders to assist earthquake victims in Haiti.

Face Stockholm
Hudson, NY 518.822.9474
Rhinebeck, NY; 845.876.2200
 
Bodhi Holistic Spa
Helping people heal in a holistic, natural way inspired Melinda Macchiaroli, a massage therapist and yoga teacher, to open Bodhi Studio on Warren Street in 2004.  Bodhi, a Sanskrit word that means “awakening” or “self realization”, embodies what Macchiaroli hopes are clients’ takeaway spa experiences.  “Our treatments emphasize ancient healing practices, such as Traditional Chinese Medicine and Ayurveda, and we are also committed to using chemical-free products,” Macchiaroli says.  You can consult with a naturopathic doctor, deep cleanse with colon hydrotherapy, detoxify in an infrared sauna, or opt for “face lift acupuncture” (facial rejuvenation without drugs or surgery).  The boutique, located on the ground floor, carries natural products and organic clothing. 

SWEETHEART DEALS: Through Sunday, February 14th
A special treatment available this week is the “Heart Opener”, a 30-minute Citron Sea Salt Scrub followed by a 60-minute therapeutic massage; $110.

The “Wellness Retreat Gift Certificate Special” includes 3 hours of head-to-toe treatments; $175.

Bodhi Holistic Spa
Hudson, NY; 518.828.2233
 
Rhinebeck Pilates
If you’ve been avoiding exercise because pumping iron (and fear of bulking up) isn’t your thing; you’re sporting a post-pregnancy potbelly; you’re recovering from an injury; or, you struggle with a bad back, Rhinebeck Pilates, run by owner and certified Pilates instructor Elaine Ewing, may be the solution easing you back into movement. 

And, for the last time, Pilates isn’t just for women.  Or for dancers.  Or for elite athletes.  It was, in fact, developed by German-born Joseph Pilates, a once-sickly child who trained as a wrestler, body builder, gymnast, boxer, diver and in the marital arts.  In the early 1920s, he devised an eponymous series of exercises that came to be known as “Pilates” to strengthen, lengthen and tone the body with an emphasis on using core muscles and light resistance.

At the 1,000-square-foot studio, Ewing teaches all sessions on Gratz equipment, true to the original Joseph Pilates design, including the “reformer”, on which various exercises are done on cushioned board that glides back and forth on what resembles a metal bed frame, and the “Tower”, an elevated mat with attached springs and bars.  In 2009, Ewings also became certified to teach Walk-ilates, ideal for improving walking and running biomechanics.

SWEETHEART DEAL: Friday, February 12th-Sunday, February 14th
It’s two-for-one: Recruit a partner to take a mat or tower Pilates class this Valentine’s Day weekend—and he or she can join you for free.  Valentine’s Day gift certificates, from $100 (10 mat classes) to $240 (four duets together) are also available.

Rhinebeck Pilates
Rhinebeck, NY 845.876.5686
 
Haven Spa
Beautiful skin is the focus of this day spa, ensconced in a handsome Victorian in the heart of Rhinebeck village.  For those looking to put their best face forward, Haven offers the latest in skincare technology, including microdermabrasion, chemical peels, and the Environ DF machine, which uses ultrasound and electrical current to promote the penetration of vitamins and antioxidants into skin.  Facials are designed to address specific goals or issues, from rejuvenation and anti-aging, to acne and rosacea.  The menu of spa services also includes massages and body treatments, such as an exfoliating lemon chiffon body polish and cellulite therapy.

SWEETHEART DEAL:  Through Sunday, February 14th
With the purchase of two gift certificates, Haven offers 50% off the third.

Haven Spa
Rhinebeck, NY; 845.876.7369                   —Kathryn Matthews

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Posted by Marilyn Bethany on 02/09/10 at 07:36 AM • Permalink

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