Vending Machines Mete Out The Beef At The Applestone Meat Company
The tractor replaced the horse and plow. The milk machine replaced the maid. Technological advancement is like the weather to farmers — make or break, and inevitable. Enter the meat vending machine. The future of farm-to-table meat selling is now open for business in Hudson, New York.
In August, The Applestone Meat Company opened its second 24-hour automated butcher shop at 21 Green Street. The clean, well-lit shop has seven automat-style vending machines stocked with everything from sausage and roasts to fillets and 120-day-aged prime steaks. There is also a human attendant present from 11 a.m. to 6 p.m. to help Luddite carnivores navigate the future of farm-to-table tech.
While the machines themselves might at first seem imposing, the quality of the products therein is validated by the reputation of owner Joshua Applestone. Co-founder of Kingston's Fleishers Craft Butchery, which opened in the early 2000s, Applestone is often credited as a pioneer of the whole-animal butchery trend within the farm-to-table movement.
The beef, pork, lamb, and now chicken, in the machines come from hormone- and antibiotic-free animals from multigenerational New York and Pennsylvania farms.
Hudson, known for its discerning and opinionated tastes, has taken to the futuristic shopping experience quickly, according to Applestone.
“The reception in Hudson has been super positive,” said Applestone, who opened his first meat company vending machine shop in his hometown of Stone Ridge, N.Y. last year. “The machines have given us an opportunity to empower customers. It never ceases to amaze me how many people come at night.”
The success of the business model means growth, with new stores planned for further south in the Valley next year, and sooner than later in New York City.
“We are hoping our stores can become a temple of sorts, a gathering place for people to come together,” Applestone continued. “I think very few people in this world have the opportunity to put together a business like this. With my background, we have a reputation with a brand that people trust.”
Applestone says the vending machines allow for access to quality, ethically sourced meat any time and at reasonable prices. In addition to meat in the refrigerated machines, frozen meat can also be purchased from the attendant during open hours at a significant 20% discount. The store also accepts SNAP benefits (formerly known as food stamps). Which is not unremarkable in Hudson, a notorious food desert.
But what do meat vending machines represent for our regional food system? Applestone was a major player in the 20-year revolution that’s turned the Hudson Valley into a destination for people who want to slow down and get to know their food providers. Applestone says his vending machines are not at odds with those values but rather just give consumers better access to them.
“I think technology is cool but no matter how automated we are, it’s a human-run business,” he said of the company. “I’ve learned not everyone is into technology. That’s why we have an attendant there. When modeling the business, we realized we had to have a face.”
There’s been a trend lately, primarily centered in Silicon Valley and San Francisco, to experiment with automating food service. Fully robotic burger joints and the like have popped up as conceptual experiments by futurist tech millionaires. Applestone strongly feels his new company’s ethics and goals aren’t comparable.
“They’re thinking about "Blade Runner," not quality or even functional architecture,” he said.
It might not be "Blade Runner," but The Applestone Meat Company does represent a new weather pattern in the local agricultural economic ecosystem.
Ruby Duke, co-owner and farmer at Raven & Boar Farm has been an eloquent proponent of an ethical food system where consumers eat less meat, but when they do, they’re educated about its source. And when possible, they know the farmer.
“I’m torn about it,” Duke said of the vending machines, adding she respects Applestone personally. “It’s competition. I’m fine with that. It’s just, for what we are specifically trying to do, personal interaction is very important. This job is exhausting but when I get to a farmers market and talk to people, that’s what fills me back up. I can go back to work on Monday and say, ‘Okay, I got this.’”
“If you're currently shopping with a farmer, you should keep shopping with them,” said Applestone. “We are trying to bring that level of quality product to people who can't do that. I hope we never ever take business away from farmers. That’s not our purpose. It’s going to take time for farmers to understand.”
Zak Pelaccio, the celebrated chef behind Hudson’s Fish & Game and Backbar, has known Applestone for years and sourced meat for his former NYC restaurants through Fleishers. Applestone does not currently sell wholesale.
“As far as on the consumer end, it’s genius,” said Pelaccio. “The fact I can roll in after service and grab whatever I want is fantastic. From a farmer's perspective, there are things they [Applestone] are able to change.”
Pelaccio said if it’s feasible the shop could have a machine dedicated to meat from Columbia County farms. Because Applestone has its own whole animal processing facility, Pelaccio thinks it could really be a benefit for farmers; it’s easier for them to sell whole animals rather than preprocessing cuts themselves.
“I think this could be a way for farmers to move more product,” Pelaccio said. “I know Josh. He’s always been at the forefront of connecting communities to product. People who can will still buy directly from farmers. Hopefully what it will do is get a better quality product to people who, in a pinch, would otherwise go to the grocery store.
“It will probably only enhance the idea that the Hudson Valley is a progressive place to get great quality food,” he continued. “It’s not Walmart coming in and pushing out mom-and-pops. This is a small-scale and inclusive endeavor.”
It is yet to be seen if Applestone starts a trend or if only a reputation like his can back the model. But business at the meat vending machines is good, growing quickly, and they’re likely here to stay.
“I’m not going to lie,” Applestone said. “I’m shocked at how busy we are.”
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