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RI Archives: Food

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Berkshire Coop

Guido's Marketplace

Hotel on North/Red Lion Inn

[See more Food News articles]

Cooking With Chef Jeff

Rural Intelligence FoodFresh from a working vacation in Nice, caterer Jeff Loshinsky [that’s him, in the white jacket, in the market there] is bursting with new techniques and recipes he wants to share.  “Nice has one of the best markets, Cours Saleya, in the world,” he says. “And because of its proximity to Italy, Nice has things you might not find even in other parts of Provence. One of the great street foods of Nice, for example, is socca, a crepe made with chickpea flour.  Another thing that exists nowhere else in the world, is a cookie called Estoufadou, made with cornmeal, honey, ground almonds, and spices—it’s like shortbread except it’s made with a combination of butter and olive oil.  The pizza in Nice is also fabulous and different; they break an egg in the middle of it.”

Rural Intelligence FoodStarting next week, Loshinsky, a caterer and restaurant consultant, will conduct a series of classes at Vince Mulford, the ultra-soignee Hudson antiques shop.  This Tuesday, January 27, he will demonstrate making gougere, a classic French hors d’oeuvre that he feels is less widely-known in this country than it ought to be.  “If you’ve got a stand mixer, you can make gougere,” he says of the morsels made from flour, cheese, and a combination of milk and water, that, done right, are like eating flavorful air.  “Traditionally, the French season them with gruyere, but I’m going to adapt the recipe to a couple of wonderful local cheeses from Sprout Creek Farm in Dutchess County—both their Barat and their Ouray have the requisite intense, nutty flavor.  Whenever possible, I adapt recipes to take advantage of local resources.”

One benefit of the current economic downturn, Loshinksy believes, is that people will be entertaining more at home.  “It’s in the air,” he says. “Everyone is starting to think, ‘maybe it’s time to dust off the Kitchenaid.”  And when they do, maybe they’ll want to make something hearty and cozy, like Loshinsky’s Nicoise bean-and-vegetable soup au pistou, a soup that’s flavored at the end with a pesto-like melange of olive oil, herbs, citrus zest, black olives, and seasonings that each diner stirs in to taste.  But we’ll have to wait until February; we don’t get there until class two.

For travelers, two food shops in Vieux Nice (the old town) that Loshinsky highly recommends:

Denis Roda (Fresh Pasta and Ravioli)
7 Rue de Collet
06300 Nice France
04 93 80 18 41
“The best Raviole Nicoise!,” he says. “Tiny fresh ravioli stuffed with a rich beef stew.”

Charcuterie Ghibaudo
29, Rue Pairoliere
06300 Nice France
04 93 85 60 34
“In a country filled with charcuterie, this shop, owned by a Nicoise and his Florida-born wife, has a unique blend of Italian and French specialties. Try the porchetta, or a rope of the small kiwi-shaped garlic sausage.”

Demonstration cooking classes with Jeff Loshinsky
Vince Mulford Antiques
417-419 Warren Street, Hudson
(enter the rear of the store via Cherry Alley)
6 p.m. – 8 p.m.; $35 per class
Tuesday, January 27: Appetizers & Hors d’oeuvres
Tuesday, Feburary 17, Hearty Soups and Chowders
Tuesday, March 31, Simple, Elegant Desserts
Tuesday, April 28, The Main Event
Tuesday, May 26, Flawless Salads
Please reserve at least 6 days ahead for each class; 646.752.5977.



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Posted by Marilyn Bethany on 01/22/09 at 08:07 AM • Permalink