Berkshire Restaurants Add A New Course to Outdoor And Winter Dining
We're all asking the same thing: What are restaurants (and the rest of us) going to do about eating out as it gets colder?
Thanksgiving at Cafe Boulud at Blantyre. Photo courtesy of Blantyre.
As if being in the restaurant business weren't enough of a challenge, our favorite restaurateurs are having to do the pandemic pivot with the change of every season. Berkshire Grown, the organization that supports and promotes local agriculture — as well as the food businesses that are part of that system — checked in with some of its restaurant members to see what their plans are as we transition from fall to winter.
Paul Brassard, at Berkshire Palate in Williamstown, admits this season has been “a bit challenging, especially after a robust January and February, March was a seismic change in the wrong direction.” One big change was takeout. On March 1, 6% of Brassard's business was takeout so for takeout to temporarily become 100% of the business created some challenges. “We did everything from revamping the menu (some foods just don't travel very well) to lots of behind-the-scene changes to accommodate this new type of workflow.” As colder weather approaches, the menu features end of the growing season foods such as butternut squash in soups, or as the base for hush puppies with maple aioli paired with roasted beets in salads. Indoor and takeout choices will continue to offer comfort food (mac and cheese now accompanies his house-smoked brisket) along with a selection of hearty sliders.
Also in Williamstown, Nancy Thomas, Mezze Bistro & Bar proprietor and chef, created new options following current guidelines for her dining patrons, in addition to indoor seating. Takeout, of course, is available through the fall season. Mezze Bistro is open for dinner with outdoor heated dining on the porch plus indoor dining with socially distanced seating.
In South County, Chef/Owner Dan Smith of John Andrews Farmhouse Restaurant pivoted to takeout early on in the pandemic. For the warm summer months, the restaurant created outdoor dining areas on the lawn and hillside behind his restaurant in South Egremont. Extra furniture and equipment included netting and temporary floor surfaces set alongside fire pits, which created a magical outdoor space. These changes kept Smith's business strong and his staff employed throughout the spring and summer. With the winter months on the horizon and the outside dining option coming to an end, the restaurant will continue to offer inside dining and takeout. Chef Dan's menus will reflect the change in season by incroporating winter squashes, root vegetables, some hearty vegetable stews, and braised local meat entrees. (Click here to watch Berkshire Grown's new video and hear Dan Smith talk about the inspiration he gets from locally sourced produce.)
Berkshire Palate's roasted butternut 'n' beets with apple pecan salad and cider reduction
Maggie Merelle, proprietor of Rouge Restaurant in West Stockbridge, is developing a plan to re-open inside dining with the highest regard for the safety of her customers and staff. Rouge will maintain its outdoor dining operation as long as possible, using heat lamps, blankets, and fire pits to create a warm and safe environment. Her menu continues to evolve as it keeps pace with the seasonal offerings from local Berkshire purveyors as well as the challenges of outdoor and take-out dining. Rouge currently offers outdoor seated dining along the sidewalk, with selections from its Sidewalk Snacks and Sidewalk Sweets menus.
In the coming months Rouge will increase takeout options to include delivery (in addition to curbside pickup) with the return of its popular weekly Family Meal option as well as the introduction of some special event menus with servings for either two or four people to be enjoyed at home. Meals feature French-fried chicken, BBQ short ribs, grilled leg of lamb, and grilled sea bream. These meals can be ordered completely finished or “take and bake” to finish at home. Jeremy Kenny, general manager at Rouge Restaurant, says special event menus are in the planning stages, with a goal to offer multi-course wine dinners for two featuring four to five different wines paired with four to five tasting courses complete with tasting notes, information about the wines, etc. Another plan in the works provides a special dining experience delivered right to one’s door during the holidays. Both Kenny and Merelle encourage patrons and newcomers to stay tuned.
With all these options, Berkshire diners can cater their own fine dining experience. And there’s more: cocktails to go can be had from Mooncloud in Great Barrington, fresh-cut bouquets from the farmers market, and delectable sweets from Chocolate Springs in Pittsfield or The Sweetish Baker in Great Barrington.
--Berkshire Grown
More updates:
Café Boulud at Blantyre in Lenox, which took up residence in July, has been so successful that its popup has been extended through mid-February 2021. What that means is that Boulud fans can plan on leaving the holiday cooking to Chef Daniel. A Thanksgiving three-course prix fixe menu has already been posted. While Blantyre does have heat lamps outside and diners will be served there as long as weather permits, but they don’t anticipate much outdoor dining, and Thanksgiving, Christmas and New Year’s Eve programming will take place indoors following all state and DCD guidelines.
Prairie Whale in Great Barrington began offering limited indoor seating last week, and that will be available to those who make reservations. The front yard and porches, which have been outfitted with heat lamps, will be offered to walk-in diners “as long as people want to sit out there,” says a manager.
Cantina 229 in New Marlborough served diners on its deck and lawn, and under a tent through the middle of October, most recently with scattered heaters, and takeout, of course. After briefly closing for R&R, Cantina 229 reopened October 23 and will be serving through December 20, then closing until the spring. At this time, outdoor dining is closed, and takeout is available to order online. Inside the dining room, On Friday, Saturday, and Sunday, there is a tasting menu with optional wine pairing for one party per night (for 8-12 adults). Nice way to have a private party where you can all spread out!
--Lisa Green
