You've gotta love a high-end Berkshires restaurant that keeps the bar open 'til 1 a.m. Not that one would ever avail herself of the privilege. But it strikes a blow for a brand of fun that's thin on the ground around here. Berkshire-eans tend to expect too much of Bistro Zinc. When it opened in 1999, the food was a revelation. Since then, it's been coasting, and the competition has wised up. But if you stick to bistro fare--the steak with perfect frites ($34), the astonishing 8-ounce burger on a plate piled high with onion rings and French fries ($18), the roasted trout ($26) -- you can have a fine time here. Lunch in the bright dining room is even better; same burger is $4 less. A word about specials: A special can be something seasonal and lovely, such as soft-shell crab; or it can be experimental, a dish the chef isn't sure even he or she is going to like. My advice: if you're risk-averse, steer clear of specials. Pheasant stark naked except for the cabbage leaf it steamed in ($28)? Note to chef: sauce is pheasant's raison d'etre. 56 Church St., Lenox, MA(413) 637-8800 Open daily Lunch: 11:30 a.m.-3 p.m. Dinner: 5:30-10 p.m. (May-August 5-10 p.m.)
