Often, going to a restaurant in our area can seem like landing in the middle of Waiting for Guffman--amateurs acting their hearts out badly. Polished, well-managed Ca'Mea Ristorante is just the opposite. Two Warren Street storefronts attractively combined, plus, in season, an enormous garden, it also has a bar that's great for dining (square, with a central bartender, it invites interchange, making it popular with solo diners and couples who've already heard what each other has to say). Upon arriving one Saturday night last summer without reservations, our party of four was surprised that we were able to cadge a table in the garden right away. The place was hopping, so we kept it simple--salads ($9.00) and pastas ($19 - $21) all around--and braced ourselves for a wait. Not at all. Firsts arrived promptly, and within minutes, the steaming bowls came out. Impressive. And the food? Authentically northern Italian, which is to say, delicious, if not the most inventive stuff around. 333 Warren St., Hudson, NY(518) 822-0005 Lunch: Tuesday - Sunday 12 - 3 Dinner: Tuesday - Saturday 5 - 10; Sunday 5 - 9 Closed Mondays
