Eat Like a Greek God at the New House of Stefas in Millbrook

Innovation, creativity, family, and celebration have been core tenets of Greek culture since ancient society. They’re also the catalysts that drove brothers John and Paul Stefanopoulos to open House of Stefas in the heart of Millbrook. The brothers are no strangers to casual atmosphere of many area Greek restaurants as they are heirs to the local Four Brothers Pizza chain that a previous generation of Stefanopoulos brothers founded in the 1970s.

But John and Paul, who are both in their 30s, had an entirely new concept in mind for their latest endeavor (they’re also behind Amenia’s Four Brothers Drive-In). House of Stefas opened in early June after two years of renovations on the building that formerly housed Mediterranean restaurant Aurelia, including adding on an additional 2,000 square feet. Tie in hospitality-obsessed design and sourcing, a menu that’s a combination of upscale and family-recipe inspired Greek fare, and an allure more aligned with the swanky eateries of Miami, and you’ve got a destination dining gem.

“We refer to it as ‘freestyle Greek,’ a blend of traditional Greek and our family’s recipes, but with a worldly take,” John says. “But we also honor the bounty of our region. We live locally and choose to use local farms in Millbrook, Pine Plains, and other nearby towns. At the same time, we wanted to create a space that’s entirely different, with a design that evokes the cosmopolitan glamor of Athenian supper clubs.”

A Spotlight on Design

The brothers imbue both passion and playfulness in their outlook on life (as evidenced in their social media documentation of the reno), but also in terms of business. The Poseidon’s Palace dining room may gleam with handpicked teal mohair banquettes and a sea glass chandelier imported from Mexico, but there’s nothing stuffy about the Stefas vibe.

“Hospitality is our life,” John explains. “If we were going to do something new, something groundbreaking, it would have to start with something that makes us happy and our guests feel good, but we wanted to elevate that. So that’s why everything here is custom and handpicked—all part of why it took so long to open. It took weeks just to choose plates because we wanted the right weight.”

This multisensory approach manifests as soon as guests approach the premises: Passing from the sidewalk and through the gate to the outdoor dining area, dubbed Paradise Gardens, is transportive. Streetside seating feels more like a Greek courtyard with stone flooring and ample greenery, designed as both patio and portal.

Inside, among the whitewashed plaster walls you’ll find art and eye-catching displays everywhere; some hidden—tiny sketches along the bottom of a wall, or small peepholes that peer upon hidden works within a wall—some obvious, like a framed portrait of a woman draped over a tiger. The latter hangs beside the Tiger Bar, named in homage to the majestic big cat kept (and ridden) by Dionysus, the Greek god of wine and festivity.

The spirit of Dionysus flows through the cocktail menu, with options like the Versace 38 with gin, a cucumber-mint-lime clarified cordial, mastic, lime juice, honey syrup, and super foam ($18); The Oracle ($22) with olive oil-washed Kastra Elion vodka, tomato water, feta brine, oregano oil; and the Athenian Spritz ($18) with coconut tequila, oleo saccharum, and cava. A complete wine list includes options by the glass ($14 to $28) or bottle, with local favorites like Millbrook Winery to international highlights from France, Italy, and, of course, Greece.

The design of the Tiger Bar is conceptualized around soft, feminine features—its soft coral-hued walls glow with dim lighting and a curved marble bar is paired with some of the coziest salmon-hued leather barstools you’ve ever sat upon. Besides the framed art, you’d be hard-pressed to find a pointed right angle anywhere else in the room.

There’s an additional bar upstairs in the Blue Room Cocktail Lounge. True to its name, the room is relentlessly indigo, from its lounge seating to drapery walls to the ceiling—until you get to the bar area, which is distinctively set apart with crisp silver tones; clear acrylic bar stools line a bevel-mirror-tiled bar with a white marble top. The mirrored tile continues as a backsplash for the back bar, where you’ll also find a record player amid top-tier spirits. Just around a corner is another dining area that seats 22. (Total restaurant seating is 160.) If the goal is a constant source of sensory stimulation, the upstairs rooms accomplish that mission. You’ll either be so wowed that you forget to check your phone, or you’ll fill up its storage trying to capture all that there is to see.

“We know that we didn’t go the ‘logical’ way of doing this, but we didn’t want this to be ordinary,” Paul says. “Everything is a reflection of who we are—creative, fun, wild, deep—while bringing together Greek tradition and Hudson Valley farm-to-table.”

All this design talk and we haven’t even gotten to the food yet. But, one more upstairs surprise worth mentioning: The ultra-exclusive Mickey Dongels room. There is a hidden passageway through the kitchen that leads to this by-reservation-way-in-advance private room that’s an extension of the blue lounge’s theme with just a handful of chairs around a central table. The only way to access the room is to be buzzed in, to ensure the utmost privacy, with a corded landline phone that connects directly to the kitchen for orders. Paul dropped various celebrity names who have already booked the room, like local resident Liam Neeson.

So, who is Mickey Dongels? “It’s a little bit of an inside joke,” Paul laughs. “While we were still renovating the building, people in town were very curious about what the old restaurant would become. So, on April Fool’s Day, we put out a sign that said ‘McDonald’s Coming Soon’—and because Millbrook is very particular about supporting locally owned businesses as opposed to corporate chains, people reacted more upset than we expected—started making phone calls and all that. So the name is a play on words for McDonald’s, which also makes it ironic because the restaurant couldn’t be further from corporate fast food.”

Greek Eats

Now, about the food. You’ve got options aplenty whether you’re looking for a cocktail and light bite, a table of shared plates, or an intimate dinner for two. “We have the only Aegean raw bar anywhere around—that we know of,” John explains, referring to Aegean Odyssey, an eight-course Omakase-style meal rooted in Hellenic tradition, curated by chef Erich Hentschel. The executive chef at House of Stefas is Roel Alcudia.

Diners can choose from options like ceviche ($21) scallops with Greek yogurt, lemon, and dill ($24); the Bounty for the Aristocracy: a sharing plate with various fish options (market dependent), or caviar service ($220) with Loukoumades puff balls, creme, and cured quail egg. Or, diners can Let the Gods Decide, an option that allows for complete curatorial trust in your server to bring a series of dishes from the menu (market pricing).

For entrees, there are family-style options that feed two to four guests, like salt-crusted whole fish with ladolemono sauce and skordalia (a garlic and potato dip) ($180), or braised lamb shoulder with lemon potato and garlic yogurt ($225). Additional dishes include Mama’s Pasta made with beef, peppers, mushrooms, and tomato ($36); swordfish with Manila clams, white wine, and lemon potato ($54); and pork souvlaki with a side of crispy potatoes, garlic yogurt, and pita ($44). It’s fine dining with heart.

“House of Stefas represents our philosophy on life: Go all the way,” John says. “Whether it’s love, life, work there’s no other way. Life is what you make of it, celebrate each day you’re given. And if you want to share that goodness, create a beautiful space for people to enjoy.”

House of Stefas is open daily.