By Jamie Larson The announcement of any new large business coming to the region is always a big deal, but rarely are those announcements covered by multiple Japanese media outlets. At the Culinary Institute of America on April 10, everyone was eager to get a look at and a taste of Asahi Shuzo’s plan to create its first overseas sake brewery, and the first ever on the East Coast. The food heritage of the Hudson Valley was a big draw for the company, whose chairman, Hiroshi Sakurai, called the CIA “the culinary capital of America.”
Asahi Shuzo is one of the most highly regarded sake brands in Japan. Their Dassai sake, which they served at the end of the press conference to assembled officials, politicians and thirsty reporters, is smooth and floral. There’s almost no bite to the alcohol and there’s a clean sweetness that doesn’t overstay its welcome. It’s considered a sipping sake and feels extremely different in the mouth than the (still pleasant) table sake most of us are used to drinking at sushi restaurants. “Asahi Shuzo is a leader in its field,” said CIA President Dr. Tim Ryan. “We are honored that they chose to build their first U.S. operation in the CIA’s backyard, and look forward to a long and fruitful relationship.” The CIA currently offers a course in advanced Japanese cooking, but Ryan said the partnership with Asahi Shuzo will lead to a professional sake certification program and even a full academic concentration in Japanese food, beverage and culinary culture.
Hiroshi Sakurai and Kazuhiro Sakurai with Dr. Tim Ryan.
“When looking for a site to build our first U.S. brewery, we knew we wanted to differentiate ourselves from other sake brewers,” said Sakurai, adding that while sake has become more popular in the U.S., there is huge growth potential if presented to the American market. “The proximity to the CIA is an ideal fit.” Sakurai stressed that it is not just their intent to increase sake consumption alongside Japanese food but to show how well it pairs with other cuisine, and that the Hudson Valley, with its world-class farms and restaurants, is the perfect place to do that. Sakurai and his son, Kazuhiro Sakurai, who is the company's president, said their goal is to bring not just more sake to America but also the traditions that surround it, and that takes fostering the local community’s involvement. The elder Sakurai is so committed to the expansion plan that he is moving to Hyde Park and will not move back to Japan until the operation and sake quality meet his standards.
The building plan starts with the rehab and redesign of an old 52,500-square-foot former supermarket into a traditional, yet state-of-the-art brewery, complete with a retail section and tasting room. The project is expected to cost $28 million, create at least 32 new local jobs and produce 332,000 gallons of sake a year. Parking will be reduced at the site in favor of more green space, and a building will be surrounded by Japanese cherry trees, whose iconic spring blossoms are a rich cultural symbol celebrated with, you guessed it, sake. As one would expect at an announcement like this, local and state officials abounded. Each expressed enthusiasm for the news and excitement at attending the future grand opening of the facility. Dutchess County executive and Republican gubernatorial candidate Marcus Molinaro joked that he took some umbrage with Asahi Shuzo’s slogan “We brew sake for sipping,” because he likes to throw it back like a shot. Later, in response, Sakurai retorted that he was no longer worried about local sales.
