Where to Eat When You’re Pre- or Post-Walkway Over the Hudson
When it comes to the rails-to-trails movement, there’s nothing quite like the Walkway Over the Hudson. Ten years ago this coming October, the long-dormant Poughkeepsie-Highland Railroad Bridge re-opened as the longest elevated pedestrian bridge in the world (1.28 miles).
Providing spectacular views 212 feet above the mighty river, the wheelchair-accessible Walkway (which is managed as a New York State park) is a mecca from sunrise to sunset: for locals and tourists, pedestrians, hikers, runners, bicyclists, bird and people watchers, leaf peepers, you name it. It’s the link between the steadily expanding Dutchess County and Hudson Valley rail trails, as well as stretches of the annual Walkway Marathon. An affiliated non-profit holds events on site, from full moon walks to jazz shows and movie screenings. And the most recent numbers show that people flock to the Walkway year round, from an impressive 13,408 a month in the winter to 67,881 a month in the summer.
Fortunately, culinary pleasures abound at, or a few blocks from, the Poughkeepsie end of the Walkway. Serving brunch through dinner, they span ethnic menus, American classics, and healthy options. Sit down inside, dine al fresco, or get takeout. Here’s an introduction to five of the many places to choose from, including a beloved institution that dates back nine decades, and a batch of comparative newbies. The first three are nearest to the Poughkeepsie entrance/exit.
CLOSEST TO THE POUGHKEEPSIE EXTRANCE/EXIT
History inspired chef Chris D’Aleo to purchase Aloy’s in 2001, which began in 1929 as a small eatery to feed railroad workers. Now he recognizes four generations of loyal customers. Award-winning square, thin-crust pizza remains the restaurant’s signature dish, with Joseph and Anna Aloy’s original recipe unchanged. D’Aleo has selectively added entrees learned from family back in Italy, such as pasta Bolognese prepared for veal, beef or pork simmered with fresh garlic, plum tomatoes and fresh herbs. The Eggplant Delizia features homemade eggplant with imported prosciutto stuffed with sautéed baby spinach and a blend of ricotta, parmesan and gorgonzola cheeses. Customers say they're addicted to the penne vodka. There are seafood choices, the wine selection emphasizes Italian varieties, and a seasonal rotation of six tap beers includes local IPAs.
This bustling lunch place focuses on made-to-order sandwiches, chopped salads, “bowls,” burgers and soups (recently including both chili and miso with tofu). Chef/proprietor Ed Kowalski set out in 2005 to create “a healthy alternative to the fast food epidemic,” and roughly 65 percent of his base menu is still going strong, with mainstays such as peanut noodles and a chipotle turkey panini with avocado and bacon slices. Touches like red onions, goat cheese and a sweet chili vinaigrette complement the beet and carrot slaw salad. Bowls are new-ish to the menu, combining a grain mix of farro and quinoa with various toppings — the Sticky has broccoli, Asian slaw, scallions and a secret sauce, while the Southwest has black beans, avocado, hard-boiled egg and an ancho cumin vinaigrette.
Last year, Kowalski opened a cozy second spot just down the block to offer more to the lunch crowd, and a menu that transitions to dinner. Wood-fired Neapolitan pizza is the sweet spot, along with fresh pasta made in house. (He takes pride in his pizza oven and pasta extruder imported directly from Italy.) So far the classic margherita pizza is the people’s choice, traditionally made with tomatoes, mozzarella, fresh basil, salt and extra-virgin olive oil. Ricotta gnocchi with short ribs, served for dinner, is the early favorite on the pasta side. The wine list has already won a Wine Spectator award and area beers are on tap. Patio seating is comfy and shaded.
NEW INSPIRATIONS FOR A HISTORIC NEIGHBORHOOD
With Italian influences so prominent among this first group of eateries, a second group is bringing new flavors to the city’s nearby Little Italy, its Mount Carmel neighborhood (where the La Deliziosa remains a go-to destination). Essie’s chef/owner Brandon Walker, one of the newcomers, put it well: “I wanted to be in an area of Poughkeepsie that had a rich history of culture and commerce, and was up and coming.”
This inviting bistro celebrates Brandon Walker’s Caribbean/American South lineage and love for global inspiration. To begin his grit coquettes, he cooks speckled corn grits tender in milk, cream and water, flavored with garlic, thyme, salt and pepper. Once finished with cheddar, cooled, and cut into squares, they’re breaded, fried and served with garlic aioli. There's also pork scallopini, finished with a pickled mustard seed mushroom marsala and served with collard greens and sweet potato puree. Seafood includes grilled octopus or fish of the day. Smoked bacon hash and frittata variations are among the tasty Sunday brunch options. Consumed at table or at the snug bar, the sorrel rum punch and orange whiskey sour are popular cocktails.
Entrepreneurial chef John Lekic has built strong relationships with local growers through his former suburban restaurant Le Express and his continuing Farmers & Chefs food truck and catering businesses. His re-opened restaurant now shares the F&C name, in urban digs with expansive Hudson views (including from a sizeable deck). For smaller bites Lekic suggests the hen-of-the-woods mushroom appetizer and a local artisanal cheese and charcuterie platter. Or you might want to start with a Hudson bourbon maple manhattan. A union of grilled eggplant, Mediterranean tomato chutney, and fresh mozzarella spices up the sandwich choices. For an entrée, he points to the preserved lemon chicken tagine with goat cheese carrots, olives and saffron couscous. Shakshuka — two eggs baked in spiced tomato sauce with Bulgarian feta — should go nicely with your Bloody Mary for Saturday/Sunday brunch.
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