Gaskins

At the crossroads in the center of Germantown, Gaskins has a modern elegance that's matched by the refined dinner offerings. You can start with creamy burrata, punched up with garlic scape pesto ($14) or marinated peak-season heirloom tomatoes paired with peaches basil and chorizo ($12). All the small plates and mains rotate based on seasonality and whim, but a sampling of a recent menu gives you a sense that no matter when you come there will be something that will beckon, like the house-made fettuccine with a rabbit ragu, saffron and olives ($18) or the really classic wood-roasted mussels and clams with potatoes and corn ($21). As any local joint should, they have some staples as well, including a stellar burger and fries ($14) and baked mac and cheese ($7) that’s only going to grow in popularity when the weather turns cold. And save room at the end for a cheese plate ($12), lemon polenta cake ($8), stone fruit crisp ($9) or just some great chocolate ice cream ($6). To accompany, there’s a knowledgeably curated wine list, a bevy of good beer and even a selection of after-dinner drinks. Read full review here. 2 Church Ave., Germantown, NY (518) 537-2107 Open for dinner Thurs.-Mon., 5-10 p.m.