Peter Davies of Turkana Farms writes: My interest in guinea fowl, dating back some thirty years, was probably initially more aesthetic than culinary. I liked the look of the flocks I saw moving like a single undulating organism across summer-house lawns in the Hamptons. I only learned about the racket they make, which is not at all aesthetic, when we began to raise them at the farm eight years ago. Our justification for our first flock of 24 was their growing reputation as tick exterminators. Our plan was to have them roam freely in the large compound framed by deer fencing that includes the house, lawns, flower beds, berry patches, and vegetable garden. And, to their credit, our guineas seem to have given us a tick-free zone. Outside this compound, unfortunately, it is another story. The guinea fowl is actually an African bird, some species of which are found in semi-open country, such as savannas or semi-deserts, while other varieties inhabit forests. The helmeted guinea fowl, which is what we raise, originated in semi-open regions of Africa, but it has long been domesticated in Southern Europe, the United Kingdom, and here in the States. It is well named since from a distance it looks like nothing so much as a helmet on short legs gliding across the yard. Our culinary interest in guinea fowl actually predated our familiarity with the living birds. In Chinatown, a short walk, from our New York City loft, guinea fowl is routinely carried in meat markets along with a huge variety of other small birds. Flying blind, I began buying them years ago and finding ways to cook them. But it was not until we cobbled together our own Quixotic tour of the Palladian villas of Northern Italy a number of years ago that we happened on beautifully prepared guinea fowl dishes at various restaurants in Treviso and Bassano del Grappa. Guinea meat, we are convinced, is much more delectable than chicken. In its texture guinea fowl is something like chicken, but its flavor is somewhere between that of chicken and turkey, with a suggestion of game bird. Its meat is definitely moister and has more body than chicken. While the standard helmeted guinea fowl is excellent, as long as it is slaughtered at less than six months, it tends to the scrawny side. The French have "improved" it by breeding a meatier bird which is market ready at 10 weeks and dresses out at about 3 1/2 lbs. While our four surviving standard helmeted guinea fowl still faithfully patrol our farm grounds vacuuming up ticks in most seasons (we lock them up to keep them from destroying the leeks and tomatoes in the midsummer garden), we now find ourselves moving batches of fifty meat guineas in portable pens up and down our pastures in July and August . Bit by bit, we are managing to convert a sometimes cautious clientele into trying them, invariably with very positive results. Our biggest guinea fowl triumph to date was supplying forty guinea fowl for Governor Spitzer’s table at the Executive Mansion, thereby becoming “Purveyors to the Governor.” Poor Governor Spitzer was never to enjoy them: he, sadly, ended up eating crow instead. Recently, we’ve been enjoying them grilled; but in winter, we like them roasted. Guinea Fowl with Apple 1 Guinea Fowl 6 oz. heavy cream 3-4 Rashers Streaky Bacon 3 dessert apples 5 T. butter, divided 3 ounces Apple Brandy (Calvados) [optional] Salt and Pepper Pre-heat the oven to 375°F. Season the bird well and wrap with bacon. Heat 4 T. of butter and fry the thinly sliced apples for 2 to 3 minutes. Smear the remaining butter in a roasting pan (a Le Creuset type Dutch oven, or what we really like lately is a French fireproof ceramic vessel by Emile Henry, lighter but the same versatility), add the bird, surround it with the apple slices, and pour over half of the cream. Roast, uncovered, basting from time to time for 45 minutes or until the juices run yellow when a skewer is inserted into the thigh. Remove the bird to a serving dish and keep warm. Stir in the remaining cream and warm. If using apple brandy add it along with the cream and boil to burn off the alcohol, then serve. Guinea Fowl with Tarragon 1 guinea fowl 3 T finely chopped tarragon Salt and pepper 8 T (one stick) butter 1 T flour 1 1/3 cups light cream Preheat the oven to 375 degrees. Mix the butter, tarragon, salt and pepper to form a paste. Spread one-quarter on each side of the fowl, then form a ball with the remainder and put it inside the bird. Roast for 1 hour and 30 minutes. Remove the bird from roasting pan to a serving dish and keep warm. Skim the fat from the pan juices. Mix the flour and cream, then pour them into the pan. Bring to a boil, stirring constantly, until the sauce thickens.
