Marjoram + Roux Joins Great Barrington's Food Group

One of the nicest things about the relatively small community of top-notch chefs in the Berkshires is that it’s possible to follow them through their trajectory. We’ve watched one of them, Daire Rooney, as she has made her way through Brix Wine Bar, head chef for Mezze catering and events, executive chef at Allium, and several appearances at the James Beard House. Now she has surfaced as not just chef but owner of her own place, Marjoram + Roux, located on Railroad Street in Great Barrington.

Taking over the space at the top of the block that was formerly H.R. Zeppelin Chocolates (and, before that, the much-loved Martin's Restaurant), Rooney leaves behind positions at fine dining establishments for a breakfast-lunch-provisions shop offering prepared foods, coffees and teas, pastries and HR Zeppelin chocolates.

Breakfast selections include a frittata of the day and a kawah fruit bowl (fruit, yogurt, chia seeds and peanut butter); lunch offers salads, sandwiches on baguettes (pear, brie and fig jam is one), and a list of daily specials. Last weekend, on a glorious Columbus Day Sunday, the grilled mushroom tartine with a thick swath of goat cheese atop a fresh baguette was supremely satisfying. The iced mocha latte made me appreciate the balmy fall day even more.

The space has retained the clean, contempporary decor left by the chocolatier who preceded it, but the space is small, which means there is limited seating inside. A handful of café tables and chairs have been placed outside. Marjoram and Roux’s next-door neighbor is MoonCloud, (owned by the chef/owners of Cantina 229, Josh and Emily Irwin), and with their tables placed in the crook of Railroad Street, there’s a happy vibe at the top of Great Barrington’s other main drag.

It’s been a while since Smithsonian Magazine named Great Barrington No. 1 on a list of the 20 best small towns in America. The thriving restaurants on Railroad Street ought to help keep the town on that list.