Recipe: Baby Artichokes In A Rosemary-Scented Broth
Here's an easy basic recipe for baby artichokes, plus four simple ways to enhance these harbingers of spring.
The first appearance of baby artichokes in the market makes me realize that spring is indeed around the corner at last! These tightly packed flower buds of the edible species of thistle are full of flavor and nutrients but are still too immature to have the “choke” part of the fully mature artichoke. That being the case, you can eat them whole once trimmed and cooked in whatever way you want. This recipe calls for quickly cooking the artichokes in a court bouillon, which is simply a “short broth” that is used for poaching or simmering many delicate items that benefit from a fairly acidic and herbaceous medium: shrimp, salmon, sweetbreads all like a brief interaction with this classic stock. Artichokes discolor quickly once the tough outer leaves are trimmed away, so I suggest that you have the court bouillon ready once all of your baby artichokes are prepped. But even in the meantime, add the accruing cache of trimmed chokes to a bowl of cold water with a healthy squeeze of lemon in it. Once the artichokes are tender, use them in as many ways as you can think of while they are around in your local market. I’ve made a few suggestions in the recipe.
Baby Artichokes in a Rosemary-Scented Broth
Serves 4-6
For the Court bouillon:
6 cups cold water
1 cup white wine
1 rib celery
1 small onion
2 cloves garlic, peeled and smashed with side of a knife
1 lemon
1 bay leaf
1 teaspoon whole black peppercorns
1 Tablespoon of coarse sea salt
2 stems of fresh rosemary
To prepare the court bouillon, place the cold water and wine in a non-reactive pot, like stainless steel or glass. Slice the celery into 1/8" -inch slices. Thinly slice the onion and add with garlic and celery to the liquid. Cut the lemon and squeeze the juice in to the pot, adding the remaining lemon rinds. Add the bay leaf, peppercorns and salt and rosemary and bring to a simmer. Once the liquid comes to a simmer, turn off the heat. Cover with a lid and let steep for about 30 minutes until ready to cook the artichokes.
For the artichokes:
1 ½ to 2 pounds of baby artichokes
A bowl of acidulated water (cold water with lemon juice added)
Peel off and discard a few outer petals of the artichokes until you reach the pale, tender center. Trim the top and stem ends, then cut each artichoke in half lengthwise. There should be no discernible choke, but if there is, remove it with the tip of a paring knife. Put the artichokes in the acidulated water until all are trimmed.
Bring the court bouillon to a simmer. Drain the artichokes out of the acidulated water and add them to the court bouillon. Simmer gently for 20-30 minutes of until the artichokes are very tender when pierced with the tip of a paring knife. Remove the artichokes from the broth and transfer to a storage container. Pour a little of the broth over them to keep them moist until ready to use. Refrigerate for up to 1 week.
Four suggestions for simple ways to enjoy these “buds of spring."
1. Serve chilled with a homemade mayonnaise or aioli
2. Add as is to any salad or pasta dish — they are amazing in a pasta primavera
3. Serve warm with a bagna cauda (a fabulous warm anchovy and garlic dip that everyone should have in their repertoire)
4. Serve hot as a gratin by laying the artichokes out in a single layer in an oven proof casserole dish. In a small bowl, combine breadcrumbs with minced garlic, lots of grated parmesan and a generous amount of good olive oil and freshly ground black pepper. Sprinkle the seasoned crumbs evenly over the artichokes and place the dish under your broiler or in a hot oven (450 degrees) until the crumbs get browned and crunchy and fragrant.
