The English or green peas are about finished in my garden. They took a long time with the dry and hot days, not pea-friendly weather at all. Once they started, they were steady and fairly prolific. They’ve been a joy to eat, sweet and crisp, and I’m sad to see them go. Often peas don’t make it out of the garden as they’re a grower’s sneaky treat, a reward for all that weeding.

I’ve been adding peas to various dishes besides just cooking them simply and they make everything more delicious. I simmered them with the asparagus that made up a quinoa tabbouleh-type salad and I added a big handful to the potato and sweet onion soup that was our dinner the other night. I dropped them in raw and let the residual heat of the soup cook them to a perfect texture. That’s the thing — you don’t want to overcook these tender peas or they get hard and mealy. Then all your gardening and fussing goes to naught.

This is a fairly straightforward pea recipe. Just peas and the sweet onions I grow. You can use knobby onions, regular sweet onions or scallions. They’re simmered together in butter with a bit of fresh thyme until the peas are tender. Nothing’s better, even in these first days of summer.

Green Peas with Sweet Onion and Thyme
Makes 2 servings

2 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 medium-size sweet knobby garden onion or 3 scallions, thinly sliced, with some of the greens (about ¾ cup)
1 ½ teaspoons chopped fresh thyme
Kosher salt
1 cup shelled fresh green peas (from about ¾ pound unshelled)

1. Melt the butter in a heavy medium saucepan over medium heat and stir in the onion or scallions and the thyme. Sprinkle with a pinch of salt and cook, stirring often, until tender, 2 to 3 minutes.

2. Add the peas and 3 tablespoons water. Stir well, reduce the heat to low, cover and simmer until the peas are tender 3 to 4 minutes.

3. Remove from the heat and season to taste with salt. Serve hot.

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