Recipe: Moroccan Orange And Black Olive Salad

We are at one of those odd moments in the year, neither here nor there, balanced but about to tip over. Not dramatically noteworthy, like the longest night or the longest day, nothing to cause us to mark the ascendancy of the sun with monuments or ceremonies, as the Celts and Aztecs, and others, did.

Still. Easter, Passover, Ramadan. All of them meant to note a passing from a harsher to a kinder world. And, like most religions, they started on their ways by making up a lot of rules about food and sex. Relax, I’m only going to talk about food. The only time I suggest talking about sex is at dinners where angry political talk has pole-vaulted way over the top. Sadly, this doesn’t usually work, although it would probably be more fun, not to mention more usefully informative.

Winter’s food, and the desire for it, is fading away now as the temperature rises, but summer's lush bounty isn’t here yet. So, what to put on your holiday table? The same old turkey dinner? Or a ham? I once read in an old Joy of Cooking that one definition of Eternity is two people and a ham, so unless you have a big crowd, maybe not. Lamb? Or fish? Chicken? All are good, and would be even better, perhaps, if served with something to brighten your table and give a farewell nod to the passing of the citrus season.

Some tired palates might be cheered by this salad, which I first saw in a Paula Wolfert cookbook. I’ve seen it since then several times, different versions in her own books, and also from Craig Claiborne, and others. What’s below is what has evolved at my house, and it serves six or so; as always, the number of servings depends on what else is on offer.

Moroccan Orange and Black Olive Salad

3 or 4 large seedless oranges
About 18 black olives, pitted and sliced in half vertically. Paula used oil-cured olives, but they can be hard to find now that Covid has closed down open olive displays. I now buy Divina pitted Kalamata olives, which are brined.
Red onion, very thinly sliced into half or quarter moons. The amount in the photo is about a quarter of a cup, but to your taste.
3 TB. extra virgin olive oil. I like Olive Oil Jones, available online.
1 tsp. red wine vinegar
1 large garlic clove, pressed
1/2 tsp. paprika
1/4 tsp. cayenne, or more to taste. I use more.
2 TB. chopped parsley. If you don’t like onions, substitute chives for the parsley and leave out the onions. Or use both onions and chives, if that’s your preference.

The ingredients for this can be prepared ahead, and they should be kept in separate bowls in the refrigerator. Don’t assemble until just before serving, the better to preserve the individual flavors and textures. If you have leftovers, you’ll see what I mean.

Peel the oranges, cutting away all the white pith. A small serrated knife is useful for doing this. Section the oranges over a bowl, and squeeze the juice from the pulp over them with your hand. Cover and keep in the refrigerator until ready to assemble.

Combine the olive oil with the vinegar, cayenne, paprika, and garlic. Set aside.

With a slotted spoon, lift the oranges into a bowl. Add the olives and onions, and gently mix all with the dressing. Arrange on a platter (or put into a serving bowl) and sprinkle with the parsley or chives. Serve immediately. Use a slotted spoon for serving — this is a wet salad and you don’t want a puddle under the other things on your plate. Offer flaked sea salt (Maldon) and a pepper mill at the table. Depending on your main course, rice or scalloped potatoes would be good, a bland or creamy contrast to the salad. I have served this with crab and breadcrumb stuffed trout, and in that case no additional starch is needed. As always, some good bread never goes amiss.

The wonderful and amazing Paula Wolfert, by the way and if you don’t know, trailed all around the Mediterranean looking into the contemporary and traditional foods of the bordering countries, and helping to save their heritages. A few words come to mind when I read her books:  Dedicated, Diligent, Committed. If your library doesn’t have her books, it should.