Recipe: Sort Of The Woodland's Coleslaw

Well it’s hot as heck here as we go through this existential climate crisis, which I believe used to be known as summer. I remember visiting my grandparents’ farm in South Carolina when I was a child, listening to the grown-ups talking on the screen porch, windows wide open, turning my pillow over and over trying to find a cool spot. A long time later I’m still trying to find ways to keep cool, and the following coleslaw recipe is one that works nicely. Something you can put together easily, and serve cold.

Twenty-five years ago we bought  a house up here. It had been for sale for over seven years and, before that, had been the subject of an extended lawsuit. Empty except for mice for ages, and an overpriced disaster. It’s a boring story but, as my husband used to say, at least it’s long. Or maybe it was It’s a long story, but at least it’s boring. Anyway, after a few false starts with dubious/difficult contractors, we found The One Who Did Everything the Right Way the First Time. We were lucky, and that relationship continues today.

After a couple of years of tough times we began the kitchen renovation, and I’m sure anyone who’s lived through that will agree it’s no fun at all. Toaster oven, microwave, paper plates, bathroom sink, old refrigerator in the basement, lasts way longer than originally estimated. But I can’t complain, I have a great kitchen and, as an extra bonus, we became regulars, for a while, at The Woodland, in Lakeville.

In those days The Woodland was owned by Carol Peters, who had been given it as a wedding gift by her parents, who also owned the Interlaken Inn. It was a hamburger joint then, but eventually that changed, thanks in large part to Rob Peters, Carol’s younger brother. Rob, who died not long ago, was a gifted and inventive self-taught chef; his seasonal menu featured starters and entrees whose creativity and presentation were up to the standards of New York’s best, and most expensive, restaurants. But he always kept the old favorites, too: fish and chips, chicken and mash, the best hot and crisp French fries, and coleslaw. Rob’s death was a great loss to his customers, and to the community. Fortunately, the new owners appear to be following his lead, and much of the menu is, happily, just as it was.

Which brings us to the coleslaw, so good that we used to order it ahead and pick up a quart now and then. A few years ago some letters were written to the Lakeville Journal, the local newspaper, claiming that the fathers of both writers had invented the recipe, back when The Woodland was selling just burgers and fries. Noses were turned up, on both sides, at some of the ingredients listed. What follows is my assemblage, taking parts from each. This is a really good, classic coleslaw, easy to put together. Let it occupy the cool spot on your plate, you’ll be happy.

Sort of The Woodland’s Coleslaw

Serves ten or so. As always, it depends. Can be a side dish, but originally it was part of an iconic Woodland offering called the Mulligan Burger, i.e,. it was added to a hamburger. There is, also, a famous sandwich in New Jersey — if you google famous sandwich New Jersey it pops up — from a place called the Town Hall Deli. I had it at an art-opening reception at the Sharon Historical Society a few years ago, cut into small pieces as an appetizer. I won’t go into it, but look it up, it was so good that I did. It’s another tasty thing that incorporates coleslaw; if you make it, though, it’s probably a good idea to drain the slaw so it’s less wet.

1 and 3/4 pounds green cabbage. Most cabbages weigh more than this, use what seems about this weight. 2 pounds would be okay.
2 medium onions
2 or 3 medium carrots, grated. I use the coarse disc of a Mouli Julienne for this. Go ahead, buy one, you can use the fine disc for parmesan. Your life will be a lot easier, at least when you’re in the kitchen.
1/3 cup cider vinegar. For two pounds of cabbage, you might increase this to 1/2 cup. Try the smaller amount, add more to taste
1 tsp. kosher salt, and 1 tsp. freshly ground pepper. Also, additional salt (flaky Maldon) and pepper on the table for those who want it. Better to use less, as the mayo is salted.
1 cup, more or less, Hellman’s full fat mayonnaise. Use your judgment; remember, you can always add more. But also remember that less really is, usually, more.

Chop, do not mince, the cabbage and onions. Add everything else and combine well. Refrigerate and let mellow for several hours. This will be a pretty wet slaw — the salt causes the vegetables to weep a bit — so serve with a slotted spoon.

This is the slaw in its basic form. I sometimes add a couple of teaspoons of caraway seeds just because I like them. And I used to buy coleslaw from a deli counter at a Daitch Shopwell in the distant past. Their slaw included horseradish and was spicy and very good. Just a thought, maybe that sounds good to you, too.