Romancing The Cone: A Lot Of Love For An Ice Cream Parlor And Roadside Burger Shack
Ice cream, a burger shack and mini golf make Kelly’s Creamery and Kelly’s Husband’s Truck a Dover Plains destination.
Everyone needs a summer romance, and mine’s with Kelly’s Creamery and Kelly’s Husband’s Truck on Route 22 in Dover Plains, New York. Located six miles south of the Wassaic train station, the two Kelly’s are the quintessence of timeless summer pleasures: a whimsical ice-cream parlor and, across the parking lot, a roadside burger shack, albeit one that operates out of a permanently parked food truck.
My infatuation began at the creamery where the fresh-faced servers are more than happy to let you have multiple samples of flavors like pistachio, sea-salt caramel, key lime pie, Nutella, and banana Oreo, which are custom-ordered from a small purveyor that owners Kelly and Steven Cervino discovered in New Jersey. As my mother tried to make up her mind between a coffee milkshake and a hot fudge sundae made with cappuccino explosion ice cream, Steven intuited and wisely suggested that she’d enjoy the mocha espresso shake ($7) — chocolate soft serve, coffee ice cream, and a shot of espresso topped with whipped cream and chocolate sauce —which, in fact, made her swoon. I took the simpler route and had a basic wafer cone of velvety chocolate soft serve that was not-too-sweet, not-too-heavy — in other words, exactly right.
A few days later, when we returned for our first lunch at the food truck, Kelly’s stole our hearts, beginning with exceptional fast-food style French fries ($3.50). Served in a white cardboard Chinese take-out container, the tangle of fries were hot, crisp, and plenty for two robust appetites. On a second visit, the fries were just as expertly prepared, and my husband dubbed them “better than McDonald’s.”
If you enjoy a juicy burger that’s gently seasoned, this handmade patty ($7.50) on a brioche-style bun — served in an old-school cardboard boat lined with wax paper that resembles newsprint — is exactly what you crave from a drive-in. If you’re looking for a bold vegetarian sandwich, the grilled portobello with roasted red pepper, mozzarella and luscious pesto ($7.50) is a decadent option. And if you like crunchy fried chicken with a lightly spiced crust, the boneless white meat “tenders” ($6 for two pieces, $7.50 for three) would be right at home in a Tanglewood-bound picnic basket. But, as with all romances, there are moments when your heart dips, too: the hot dogs cry out for toasted buns; the sauce that envelops the pulled pork sandwich is a tad too sweet for my taste (but maybe not for yours); and the mini corn muffin and slaw that come with the chicken are unremarkable.
Of course, you need to leave room for dessert, and the artfully painted menu boards in the cheerful creamery offer myriad options — from the Strawberry Shortcake or Cookie Monster sundaes ($6.50) to the custom ice cream sandwiches ($4.75 to $7) and Italian ices. The list of toppings you can add to a plain cup or cone — from gummy bears and M&Ms to butterscotch and nuts — will please every kid or kid at heart. And there are several dairy-free and vegan ice creams too, including vanilla, coconut almond fudge, and cold-brew fudge chip.
Serendipity led the Cervinos to open the shop when they decided to renovate Kelly’s mother’s house around the corner. After buying a defunct bar with apartments above it as an investment, Steve, a contractor who’s built and owned restaurants in New York City, convinced his wife that they should have some fun and open a small ice cream parlor in July 2019. “We sold out of ice cream the first three weeks we were open,” he says. On July 4, 2020, they opened the food truck, and when it proved to be a success they decided to build an open-sided pavilion so diners could enjoy a meal whether there’s blazing sun or a light drizzle. “It turned out that people were so happy last summer to be able to go somewhere and eat outdoors.”
What makes Kelly’s Creamery and Kelly’s Husband’s Truck so endearing is its gestalt: The jaunty turquoise picnic tables; Adirondack chairs surrounding gas fire pits for chilly nights; tables fashioned from stone for playing chess and checkers. And there’s a sprawling 18-hole miniature golf course ($8 for adults, $6 for kids) set back from the road that’s been thoughtfully and handsomely planted by Pete Muroski of Native Landscapes in Pawling.
The Cervinos, who live in Queens, have now bought a house in Pawling and plan to move upstate full time. They have found great support from the town leaders of Dover Plains, and their next project in town is a bed and breakfast and Italian cafe. “Our future is here,” says Cervino. In the meantime, the couple hope to keep the food truck open until Christmas and host an Oktoberfest and special Halloween events.
The Cervinos are gratified that they’ve developed a diverse following. “We have regulars from Tallyho Mobile Home Estates up the road and Academy Award winners who come from Millbrook,” he says. For anyone who plies the Route 22 corridor between Brewster and Hillsdale, the Kelly’s are a delightful and essential pit stop.
Kelly’s Creamery and Kelly’s Husband’s Truck
3202 Route 22, Dover Plains, NY
Kelly's Creamery, Sunday-Thursday, 11 a.m. to 9 p.m., Friday-Saturday until 10 p.m.
Kelly’s Husband’s Truck, Wednesday-Sunday, 11 a.m. to 8 p.m.
Mini Golf, Sunday-Thursday, noon to 9 p.m., Friday-Saturday, until 10 p.m.
