Rural Intelligence Food

There’s something literally fantastic about the Swiss Hutte, a half-timber 19th-century farmhouse that’s been in continuous operation as an inn for over fifty years. Tucked in a hidden valley amid gardens at the foot of Catamount ski slope, it feels half-a-world and at least half-a-lifetime away. The menu is filled with old-fashioned classics--salmon a la Florentine, beef with bernaise, wienerschnitzel ($26 - $34)--that Zurich-born owner-chef Gert Alpert does to such perfection, you'll leave in a delusional glow about the good old days. (Trust me, unless you grew up in Europe, the restaurants your parents took you to were not this good.) In summer, opt for the flowery patio; in winter, (no kidding) cheese fondue by the fire? Rte. 23, Hillsdale, NY (near the Mass. border) (518) 325-3333 or (413) 528-6200 Lunch: Friday, Saturday 12 - 2; Sunday 12 -3 Dinner: Wednesday 5:30 -9:00; Friday & Saturday 5:30 - 9:30; Sunday 5 - 9 Closed Mondays & Tuesdays

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