The Berkshires FArm Table Cookbook: A Love Letter To Farmers And Food
It's two books in one: about local, small family farms and restaurants, plus a cookbook.
If we didn’t already know it, COVID-19 has impressed upon us the importance of the farming community in the Rural Intelligence region. And while it may not the ideal time to launch a book, Elisa Spungen Bildner and Robert Bildner’s stories/cookbook is a timely contribution and a response to our needs and concerns at this particular moment.
The Berkshires Farm Table Cookbook: 185 Homegrown Recipes from the New England Hills has been a five-years-long passion project for the couple. The two former lawyers (she also a former journalist and professionally trained chef; he a founder of several food companies and serious amateur photographer) have been in the Berkshires for 35 years. One of their sons began farming on their land in Becket, Mass., and it was because of him that their eyes opened to the world of family-run agriculture.
“When our son began farming, we started to follow him around at farmers market,” says Elisa. “Before that we didn’t understand what it took to be a farmer. They truly are heroes.”
The Bildners embarked on a project: to get to know many of the local farmers, and to educate and inform consumers about what goes into bringing that farmers market tomato or melon or chicken to you.
“We gave them the label ‘conscious farmers,’” says Elisa. “They are so willing to sacrifice their own comfort and income. They care so much about feeding animals humanely, have such passion for maintaining healthy soil. As members of the community, they care about their impact on their neighbors and the people who work for them.”
Ioka Farm, Lanesborough, Mass. Photo © 2020 by Robert Bildner
The book includes up-close-and-personal stories of more than 40 farms in or near the Berkshires, followed by recipes inspired by the products grown or raised by the farmers. Some of the recipes were contributed by the creative chefs who buy those products. The Bildners brought in Brian Alberg, the former executive chef of the Red Lion Inn, to help develop the recipes they chose to put in the book.
Considering the timing of the book’s launch, Rob says, “This is the moment to support local farms, when we see that relying on national and international food systems is becoming more precarious. Now is the time when you can get your food locally and not to have to deal beyond the area.”
He acknowledges that the cost of local produce is often higher than in the supermarket. But, he says, he hopes the book will convey the message that when we look at the benefits, it’s actually a great value.
The message takes on added importance when you learn that only 3% of the food in the Berkshires is grown locally. The Bildners are hopeful that the book will encourage people to buy more and bump up that percentage. The result: stronger, more sustainable farms, and more money kept in the community.
Once you’ve read about the struggles and successes the farmers relate in the book, you’re likely going to want to try their products — and the recipes.
Chilled Melon and Mint Soup. Photo © Clay Williams Photo
“The recipes are very accessible,” Elisa says. “What makes them sing are the ingredients. If you use fresh, local ingredients, everything will taste great.”
Along with the book, the Bildners created a website, berkshiresandbeyond.com and a Facebook page with recipes, videos, and food and farming news. While the pandemic pretty much quashed their plans for a book tour, The Berkshires Farm Table Cookbook is already doing well, reaching the #1 top new release in New England Cooking, Food & Wine.
“We embarked on this project to educate and inform, and we’re committed to not losing our message because of what’s going on,” Elisa says.
