French onion soup season is in full swing. If you’re all cozied up at home, you could try your hand at making soupe à l''oignon gratinée yourself. But if you want to trust the experts, we’ve rounded up the best French onion soup purveyors in the Rural Intelligence region, so you can get your steamy, gooey, rich, umami, cheese-pull fix.

Michael’s | Stockbridge

Michael’s Restaurant of Stockbridge has been serving the same French onion soup recipe since 1981, and even owner Michael Abdallah is a little confounded as to its unyielding success. “It’s crazy,” he admits. “You wouldn’t think people would be so all over it.” But customers have obviously been loyal fans of the mozzarella and gruyere-topped soup. The broth is very oniony and peppery, Abdallah says. “And cheese dripping on the outside is always good.” $11.

Boatehouse | Lakeville

The Boathouse in Lakeville has a seriously diverse menu: there’s the raw bar, sushi, and seafood, as well as barbecue and prime rib. But the “famous French onion” is the very first item on the menu for a reason. It starts with a bone-and-root-veggies beef stock simmered overnight, infused with sherry wine, then loaded with Parmesan and Swiss cheeses. Making it even more memorable, it comes with a little scissors, because sometimes you need help negotiating that stretchy, cheesy goodness. $10.

Le Petit Bistro | Rhinebeck

Open since 1986, Le Petit Bistro is a staple of Rhinebeck dining scene. Unsurprisingly for a well-pedigreed French restaurant, their French onion soup, with toasted baguette and gruyere cheese, earns high marks across the board. $16.

Brasserie 292 | Poughkeepsie

Brasserie 292 serves up a traditional onion soup gratinée, made with veal stock, caramelized onions, and fresh herbs, topped with sourdough and melted gruyere. Dine in house and enjoy the Europeam atmosphere with the tin ceiling, white-tiled walls, and long red leather banquette fronted by cafe tables. $10.

Shadow 66 | Ghent

Our restaurant reviewer raved about Shadow 66 when it first opened in the summertime, but he didn't mention the onion soup gratinée, probably because it wasn't on the menu at the time. It's a special that will be frequently offered as we head into winter. Chef Patrick Jehanno begins with scratch-made chicken broth (it's "really special," says his wife and house manager Astrid Jehanno), topped with gruyere cheese and rosemary. $10.

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