Wilson's In Kent, A Bakery And Café With A Mission
You don't have to know that Wilson's is the extension of a recovery center, but if you do, it elevates the eating experience.
From old favorites like Fife ’n Drum and The Villager, to new favorites in the south end of town, Kent, Connecticut, is a small town with big foodie appeal. Nestled between Kingsley Tavern and Swyft, Wilson’s Bakery and Café is owned and operated by High Watch Recovery Center, which opened in 1939 as the world’s first 12-step treatment center. In case you haven’t put it together yet, Wilson’s is named after Bill Wilson, the co-founder of Alcoholics Anonymous.
Some recovery centers may serve bland, institutional food, but not High Watch, where they serve a Saturday night prime rib dinner that’s open to the public and which sells out every week. High Watch even sources some of their food from HOPE House Farm, their working farm for guests who’ve completed their residential stay but want to stay on the property to continue working on their recovery. By working collaboratively, participants learn teamwork, responsibility, accountability, and conflict resolution, which build confidence, self-worth, and self-esteem. Farm workers see the rewards of their efforts through producing honey, beeswax, and other honey-based products, along with eggs, wool, and fresh produce.
Success From Farm To Table
Because the farm program has been such a success, High Watch decided to open a café in town where everything was made from scratch, and newly sober people coming out of the program could work there to gain skills, learn a trade, and get back on their feet. The vision became a reality, and Wilson’s Café opened in August 2021, next to House of Books.
“Graduates who want to work at High Watch need to have a year sober,” explains Brendan Miller, vice president of operations, “But we don’t put a limit on that at Wilson’s, and people have a chance to get a job right away if they need one.” Wilson’s also owns a home in town for employees, removing the barrier to affordable housing and easing the transition from a residential program.
Wilson’s is a true small-town gathering place, filled with locals, weekenders up from the city, tourists, Kent School students, and Appalachian Trail thru-hikers. From the staff to the patrons, I’ve never met a stranger at Wilson’s.
Love and community spirit are evident the minute you walk into the café, which has a large communal table plus smaller tables inside and out. But the focal point is the commanding stone fireplace surrounded by a leather couch and chairs, where friends and strangers smoosh in together. Crowds spill onto the patio and deck, furnished with portable heaters that allow the space to be used nearly year-round. But besides the good people and strong home-away-from-home vibes, there’s a reason Wilson’s is always bustling: the food is damn good.
Good Food And Good For The Staff
Taylor Darling, a Sherman native who now lives in Cornwall, is Wilson’s head chef. Darling recently celebrated his second anniversary at Wilson’s, and he describes the experience as life changing. “It’s a breath of fresh air to work for a company that promotes and encourages a healthy work/life balance,” Darling says. “There’s no old-school kitchen brigade mentality here,” Darling says, adding that he works with the staff’s strengths, helping them build skills and find the best placement, whether that looks like baking, cooking on the line, or working front-of-house positions.
“People come for the BLT and the chicken panini,” Darling says, “But we do breakfast all day and the breakfast sandwiches are probably our biggest draw.” Wilson’s bakes almost everything on site, though some baking happens at High Watch. They even make their own bagels (including a jalapeño cheddar bagel), and offer sandwiches on brioche, ciabatta, croissants, and a wide range of rustic breads and muffins. “Their breakfast sandwich is the best I’ve ever had,” Miller says.
“I’m not trying to reinvent the wheel and do crazy gastro things,” Darling says about his cooking philosophy. “There’s a lot of play with bold flavors, but our goal is simple food done right.” A recent special featured a braised pork belly sandwich with kimchi, fried shoot, arugula, and cilantro aioli on ciabatta. The prime rib sandwich with caramelized onion and horseradish cheddar aioli is a favorite from the menu.
In addition to sandwiches, Wilson’s customers can expect a range of salads — from a classic Cobb salad to a fried eggplant salad — plus weekly soup specials (not on the menu) such as clam chowder, loaded potato, and curry cauliflower. In the beverage department, Wilson’s offers everything a coffee bar can turn out, plus tea, soft drinks, smoothies, and fresh juices. If you have a sweet tooth, I recommend going to Wilson’s solely for dessert or intentionally saving room because their cookies, truffles, layer cakes, tarts, mousses, and French macaroons are worth the trip alone.
Wilson’s is closed on Wednesdays but open every other day from 7 a.m.-4 p.m. at 8 N. Main Street in Kent.
