Geppetto Carves Out A Space For A Glorious Meal In Torrington
As Italian as Pinocchio, newly opened Geppetto Osteria e Bisteccheria is an extremely satisfying dining experience.
Apple cider brined porch chop in butter and sage with butternut squash and apple chutney. Photos courtesy of Gepeetto Osteria e Bisteccheria
We exchanged, “Can you believe it?” glances upon entering. Censored words as we lustfully tore into the complimentary fresh baked bread, handy for sopping up the last slicks of white wine tinged with mint, in which only minutes earlier halved slices of carciofo (artichoke heart) lounged. By the time the gnudi di spinach (in an asiago cheese fonduta, no less) was placed before me, I’d already sent off a pitch to RI’s editor extolling this transportive find. A return visit assured it wasn’t just the Montepulciano instigating the swoon.
Opening the wood and glass doors of their latest gustatory endeavor in the fall of 2022, husband and wife team Carlo and Michelle Pulixi have created something of a Mediterranean hideaway in Geppetto Osteria e Bisteccheria. Despite a potentially devastating fire delaying renovations to the historic building catty-corner to Five Points Center for the Visual Arts, passion allowed them to plow ahead while shared experience (the couple are also behind beloved Convivium Osteria in Park Slope, Brooklyn), resulted in what counts as an exquisite, regional Italian experience in downtown Torrington, Connecticut.
Guests are welcomed with genuine smiles then efficiently shown to their table, embraced by warm amber lighting and soothing murmur of conversations in the rustic space. An enviable collection of copper utensils and various Pinnochio-themed art line the walls and an antique workbench makes for a whimsical and appropriate nod to chef Carlo’s other talent, woodworking. Music is thankfully kept at a reasonable volume, ensuring a pleasurable environment. I happen to believe that ambience enhances the taste of a meal, not that Gepetto’s needs much assistance.
Delightfully artful in the details yet unfussy, the menu pays homage Carlo’s Sardinian roots. Dishes such as Ravioli di Mela, con Ragu di Anatra ($23) — ever accommodating, I’m vegetarian and they kindly presented without the fowl — stand out. Consisting of a house-made pasta filled with green apple, and ricotta with just a note of cinnamon, the combination of flavors is simple yet surprising. The polenta with oyster mushrooms ($15) also caught my eye. Next time. And meat eater readers, rejoice! Along with several seafood offerings such as red snapper with capers and lemon ($28), there is pine-nut crusted leg of lamb ($36) and we heard raves from a nearby table from a couple sharing a roasted bone-in ribeye ($98 for two).
My husband was similarly rapturous as he enjoyed one of the evening’s specials, a “very tender” veal chop. Sweet! As in dolci. And yes, we saved room, though on both visits we couldn’t help ourselves and ordered the tiramisu. It’s that fabulous. Airy and not too sweet, this classic interpretation of the dessert provided an invigorating end to our meal. Should you wish for a less buzzy treat, poached pears in a port reduction or a blueberry and coconut crumble tart with whipped cream sound delightful.
Whether you’re interested in an intimate dinner — I recommend the cozy nook in the far left corner — or a lively feast with friends around a large table, you’ll find personable staff ready with recommendations and a nicely curated wine list. A memorable meal is assured. The produce is fresh, the faces friendly, and the atmosphere inviting. Not gonna lie — with Geppetto’s tantalizing yet comforting plates and old-world charm, one is tempted to keep this special place to themselves for fear of losing out on future reservations. But in neighborly spirit, we had to share.
Geppetto Osteria e Bisteccheria
24 East Main Street, Torrington, CT
(860) 618-0721
Tuesday-Thursday, 5-9 p.m.
Friday-Saturday, 5-10 p.m.
Sunday, 5-9 p.m.
