Paddle Over to Canoe Hill for Elevated Bar Bites in a Rustic Italian Setting

Set back from the sidewalk on Franklin Avenue in Millbrook, it is easy to miss Canoe Hill’s entrance. But retrace your steps and follow the painted brick path to a narrow, cedar-shingled entrance with New England character, because once inside, immediate warmth and the feeling of lucky discovery await you.

The vibe is rustic Italian countryside and full of charm—there are strands of braided garlic, large wooden bowls brimming with citrus, patinaed brass wine buckets, antique mirrors, and a small white wood stove tucked at the back of the dining room. Opposite the bar, intimate spaces for two are inventively defined by dark tones, creating a sense of quiet enclosure, though narrow, smart use is made of the room’s height, with shelves of wine bottles adorned in the colorful, expressive labels that have come to signify natural wine.

Courtesy of Canoe Hill

Outside, a white-fenced patio is naturally adorned by green vines; cafe tables are nestled amongst pots of herbs. The space is perhaps more lovely and inviting than even its charming Instagram presence suggests—thoughtfully designed as a cozy backdrop to elevate the dining experience.

A chef’s life often means hunting for something tasty to eat after most kitchens have closed. That after-hours hunger, perhaps the driving force behind now widely available, quality bar food. When he opened in 2014, Mike DelGrosso, Canoe Hill’s chef, owner and everything in between, intended “a really nice neighborhood bar.” The menu is reflective of his tutelage at Brooklyn and Manhattan spots known for a dedication to quality and simplicity, along with his own taste for honest, elevated bar snacks.

Courtesy of Canoe Hill

Ease into a meal at Canoe Hill with east coast oysters ($4 a piece) with dreamy names like Moon Shoal, Sea Kist, and Mookie Blues, and a cocktail. The Millbrook Sour ($16) is layered in color and flavor. Bourbon, softened by lemon and sugar is golden-hour hued, topped by a deep red layer of orange, bittersweet China China, and red wine.

The next phase of the menu is dedicated to pickled, cured, marinated, and fermented salt- and fresh-water delicacies with…toast. Decadent and richly flavored: cured salmon ($19), smoked trout rillette ($22), and pickled mackerel ($21) are lifted by fresh herbs; cooled by slivers of raw vegetables and tangy, creamy dairy; and brightened with a touch of acid. Resting on thick rye toast where the nutty, anise flavor of caraway seeds provide a sweet finish. These are bold, briny bites with accompaniments that enhance their essence—letting each fish taste distinctly like itself.

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Salads include a crunchy, baby romaine Caesar dressed just enough in powerful, tangy anchovy dressing, mellowed by a layer of thinly shaved pecorino romano that levitates above the greens ($18).

A hot, cast iron vessel nearly overflowing with plump and rich pan roasted mussels are enhanced by a tangy, spicy broth of preserved lemon, orange wine and Calabrian peppers ($22).

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A meal is easily made from these toasty and salad-y offerings. But Canoe Hill, also wanting to be a “really good restaurant,” has become a town staple by listening to the community and adding to the original selection of three mains that always included a whole roasted fish. The expanded menu includes roasted chicken, seared hanger steak, braised pork shoulder, farro and mixed mushroom risotto, and a cheeseburger on a potato bun with aioli and pickles made in-house.

Any chef whom I’ve ever known or observed, loves a whole fish. And to this chef’s proclivities, there is also a spectacular, whole roasted branzino ($37). Meaty, and generously sized, it overflows its serving plate. Filled with lemon slices, set atop roasted broccolini and seasoned to perfection, it is topped with housemade chili crisp, adding crunch and gentle heat to balance sweet flesh.

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For a restaurant of its size (42 seats inside, 26 outdoors) the wine list is extensive, featuring approximately 85 bottles from small, low-intervention producers across Europe, a handful from the US, and even a Chilean pet nat. More than half the list is $70 and lower with a dozen by-the-glass choices ($13-$18). There is also a small market offering curated provisions: coffee, candles, olive oil, and every bottle available for take away. What more does one really need?

Take a moment to digest and soak in Canoe Hill’s warm glow, let the after-dinner conversation linger—then end on a lush note with chocolate pot de creme $15). Silky, bittersweet, topped with pillowy, fresh whipped cream, it’s the kind of finish that lingers on your palate and in your memory.

Courtesy of Canoe Hill

In The Art of Simple Food, Alice Waters lays down a Hippocratic oath of sorts for chefs: "When you have the best and tastiest ingredients, you can cook very simply and the food will be extraordinary because it tastes like what it is."

In the Hudson Valley in 2025, sourcing locally and seasonally is almost a given. What stands out is Canoe Hill’s quiet confidence to let this bounty speak for itself.

Canoe Hill is open for dinner and drinks Friday and Saturday, 4-10pm, and Thursday, Sunday, and Monday, 4-9pm, with a daily happy hour from 4-6pm, featuring $2 oysters until they run out and $8 glasses of wine. Mondays feature a burger-beer special for $19.