Is there another restaurant in Columbia County as New Yorky (in a good way) as this smashing place? Swoon Kitchenbar owner-chef Jeffrey Gimmel, a former top toque at Michael’s, and his partner in all things, Nina Bachinsky-Gimmel, once a pastry chef at the Union Square Café, met while studying cheese making at The Old Chatham Sheepherding Co. All that training shows in the work: three cheese plates to choose from, all served with lavash crackers and apricot chutney, and local cheese selections like Green Mountain Blue from VT and Berkshire Bloom from Williamstown, MA ($13.95); an entré of poached gulf shrimp with bottarga aioli and horseradish vinaigrette ($15.95). And for the culinarily cautious, there’s always the skirt steak with mashed ($27.95). 340 Warren St., Hudson, NY(518) 822-8938 Lunch: Saturday & Sunday 12 -3:30 Dinner: Sunday, Monday, Tuesday, Thursday 5 - 10; Friday & Saturday 5 - 11 Closed Wednesday
