Le Gamin Country

Le Gamin Country is the brainchild of husband and wife team Patrick and Astrid Jehanno. Patrick was executive chef/partner of the original Le Gamin series of restaurants in New York City, and both he and Astrid are long-time veterans of the business. But this restaurant has a personality very different from the ones in the city, and it all starts with the food. There is the classic Quiche Lorraine, a compelling mix of air, cheese and smokiness from the fresh, thick-cut bacon; the French Onion Soup ($7.50), so densely loaded with fresh chicken stock, onions, gruyere cheese and French bread that it makes other restaurants' versions seem like water knockoffs. The salads are impeccably fresh — try La Salade Nicoise, a French classic; and Endives Au Roquefort Et Pommes Vinaigrette La Lavande, endive salad with Roquefort cheese, apples, and walnuts; both $12.50 and enough to feed two, or the sweet or savory crepes, flawless made ($5 for simple, up to $8.75). There’s usually one dish on their daily menu that could classify as a dinner meal, which might include merguez or mussels. Le Gamin Country 609 Warren St., Hudson, NY (518) 828-2885 Open every day except Wednesday. Le Gamin is a cash-only establishment.